??? - painters - binks m1-g hvlp
06-19-2018, 08:14 AM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
??? - painters - binks m1-g hvlp
they seem to be discontinued, if fact, it appears that binks as a company is MIA. anyway, i have one - brand new, in the box. question, decent hvlp for BC/CC? the gun has a 1.4 (94) fluid nozzle, and a 1.3 (93) air nozzle. BTW - although I've done painting in the past, i'm in no way a professional painter. my "in the past" was 1991 and lacquer. never done BC/CC - 
Last edited by Joe C; 06-26-2018 at 04:54 AM.
06-20-2018, 08:50 AM
#2
Race Director
I have never used it but the fluid nozzle/needles you have seem that they should work good for the basecoat and clearcoat.
1.3 is generally used for basecoat and the 1.4 for the clear....sometimes a 1.5 for clear.
When you buy your paint and clear. Get the product information bulletin ( which is NOT the same as the MSDS sheet) that should come with it and often times it will tell you what size to use and other factors such as air pressure, flash times,etc.
Obviously...basecoat is really not that much different than old school lacquer. And some paint companies sometimes will suggest to go with one grade slower in the reducer you use for your current air temps. SO. test it out and get it adjusted so it can work for you.
I never set my gun so I have a full trigger pull. I generally start out at 2 full turns out from where I could not pull back on the trigger and go from there. I RARELY ( if ever) go past 2 and a half turns.
But understand that is me KNOWING the paint I use and how it performs in relation to my painting style.
DUB
1.3 is generally used for basecoat and the 1.4 for the clear....sometimes a 1.5 for clear.
When you buy your paint and clear. Get the product information bulletin ( which is NOT the same as the MSDS sheet) that should come with it and often times it will tell you what size to use and other factors such as air pressure, flash times,etc.
Obviously...basecoat is really not that much different than old school lacquer. And some paint companies sometimes will suggest to go with one grade slower in the reducer you use for your current air temps. SO. test it out and get it adjusted so it can work for you.
I never set my gun so I have a full trigger pull. I generally start out at 2 full turns out from where I could not pull back on the trigger and go from there. I RARELY ( if ever) go past 2 and a half turns.
But understand that is me KNOWING the paint I use and how it performs in relation to my painting style.
DUB
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Joe C (06-26-2018)
06-26-2018, 07:50 AM
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
I have never used it but the fluid nozzle/needles you have seem that they should work good for the basecoat and clearcoat.
1.3 is generally used for basecoat and the 1.4 for the clear....sometimes a 1.5 for clear.
When you buy your paint and clear. Get the product information bulletin ( which is NOT the same as the MSDS sheet) that should come with it and often times it will tell you what size to use and other factors such as air pressure, flash times,etc.
Obviously...basecoat is really not that much different than old school lacquer. And some paint companies sometimes will suggest to go with one grade slower in the reducer you use for your current air temps. SO. test it out and get it adjusted so it can work for you.
I never set my gun so I have a full trigger pull. I generally start out at 2 full turns out from where I could not pull back on the trigger and go from there. I RARELY ( if ever) go past 2 and a half turns.
But understand that is me KNOWING the paint I use and how it performs in relation to my painting style.
DUB
1.3 is generally used for basecoat and the 1.4 for the clear....sometimes a 1.5 for clear.
When you buy your paint and clear. Get the product information bulletin ( which is NOT the same as the MSDS sheet) that should come with it and often times it will tell you what size to use and other factors such as air pressure, flash times,etc.
Obviously...basecoat is really not that much different than old school lacquer. And some paint companies sometimes will suggest to go with one grade slower in the reducer you use for your current air temps. SO. test it out and get it adjusted so it can work for you.
I never set my gun so I have a full trigger pull. I generally start out at 2 full turns out from where I could not pull back on the trigger and go from there. I RARELY ( if ever) go past 2 and a half turns.
But understand that is me KNOWING the paint I use and how it performs in relation to my painting style.
DUB
now a follow up question - paint. anyone use "restoration shop" products? my 85 is somewhat, a "pampered" daily driver, and not for show. not that i'm trying to save a buck, but I really don't need any high end paint products.
Last edited by Joe C; 06-26-2018 at 07:51 AM.
06-26-2018, 08:29 AM
#4
Race Director
I have not used the paint you are inquiring about.
As for the gun and paint you plan on using. Give it a try and test it out.
DUB
As for the gun and paint you plan on using. Give it a try and test it out.
DUB