Need Guidance on Removing Body Filler
#21
Race Director
Understood... and will give it a shot the next time I see I need to do it. You can count on that.
DUB
DUB
#22
i learned this trick from an old body guy when i was young. i was repainting a chop top merc that had at least 5 gals of filler on it. after a day of grinding i had a mess. he came in the next day and threw a fit. he made me clean up then handed me a propane torch and a welders brush. it still makes a mess but it does not get airborne . once you get the hang of it it's like a razor blade and heat gun.
RVZIO
#24
Drifting
the torch does not heat the filler. it draws out the solvents and turns it to powder. DO NOT SET IT ON FIRE ! one pass back and forth is all it takes. keep track of how hot it is. move around . keep in mind it will draw solvents from the glass too .
#25
Race Director
Obviously common sense comes into play for those who are possibly chemically stripping their car and have a lot of lacquer thinner around Make sure your environment is not having any vapor or fumes if you sue 'porchdog's' method of removing boy filler.
DUB
DUB
#28
Burning Brakes
I used a Dremel tool with a bit designed for cutting ceramic tile and routing out tile grout joints to remove the filler from the bonding strips.
It worked great, but you have to go slow and be mindful of the depth so you don't cut into the fender.
I filled the bonding strips with Vette Panel Adhesive. You can also fiberglass the bonding strips if you want, but I'm pretty sure that Vette Panel Adhesive will outlast me before any bonding line cracks start to appear again. That VPA is great stuff once you learn how to work with it.
I stripped the original lacquer paint using a combination of heat gun and razor blade scrapers, Citri Strip chemical stripper, and sanding in some places where necessary.
I kept power sanders off it. Any momentary lapse of concentration when using one and you have another repair to do.
This forum, and advice from Dub here helped me a lot.
It worked great, but you have to go slow and be mindful of the depth so you don't cut into the fender.
I filled the bonding strips with Vette Panel Adhesive. You can also fiberglass the bonding strips if you want, but I'm pretty sure that Vette Panel Adhesive will outlast me before any bonding line cracks start to appear again. That VPA is great stuff once you learn how to work with it.
I stripped the original lacquer paint using a combination of heat gun and razor blade scrapers, Citri Strip chemical stripper, and sanding in some places where necessary.
I kept power sanders off it. Any momentary lapse of concentration when using one and you have another repair to do.
This forum, and advice from Dub here helped me a lot.