How to bond inner fenderwell to fender C3
#1
How to bond inner fenderwell to fender C3
'71.
I've got the fenderwell/inner fender split from inside of fender on right front.
The original rubber seal is on top of the fender well. So I assume safe to assume NO bonding agent goes on top. The lower fender lip/flange bolts to the angled bracket at bottom, giving it support at bottom. (I think.)
The left side looks like there would have been a glue or bonding agent of some sort, smoothly in the gap between inner fenderwell and fender.
My question is what bonding agent do you use at that seam between inner fenderwell and fender? Is it an adhesive that holds it? and if adhesive, it is a hard bonding agent with no give, or is it more of a polyurethane gun type product that glues it, but has at least a slight bit of 'give' in it. OR is it just a seam sealer that fills the gap, but has no actual hold? I assume more than seam sealer as there'd be too much pressure on the other contact points if that fender didn't have support at that long vertical gap, but obviously don't know.
Any help?
Thanks,
I've got the fenderwell/inner fender split from inside of fender on right front.
The original rubber seal is on top of the fender well. So I assume safe to assume NO bonding agent goes on top. The lower fender lip/flange bolts to the angled bracket at bottom, giving it support at bottom. (I think.)
The left side looks like there would have been a glue or bonding agent of some sort, smoothly in the gap between inner fenderwell and fender.
My question is what bonding agent do you use at that seam between inner fenderwell and fender? Is it an adhesive that holds it? and if adhesive, it is a hard bonding agent with no give, or is it more of a polyurethane gun type product that glues it, but has at least a slight bit of 'give' in it. OR is it just a seam sealer that fills the gap, but has no actual hold? I assume more than seam sealer as there'd be too much pressure on the other contact points if that fender didn't have support at that long vertical gap, but obviously don't know.
Any help?
Thanks,
#2
Race Director
And adhesive is used in this area.
I would use SEM 39747 adhesive. It will require you to get special gun to apply it. Call SEM and find who is your local SEM area rep and see if the will loan you a gun for a one-time use scenario. They should do that for you. And call SEM so they can tell you how you need to prep it so it bonds. BOTH surfaces should be really clean and ROUGH.
DUB
I would use SEM 39747 adhesive. It will require you to get special gun to apply it. Call SEM and find who is your local SEM area rep and see if the will loan you a gun for a one-time use scenario. They should do that for you. And call SEM so they can tell you how you need to prep it so it bonds. BOTH surfaces should be really clean and ROUGH.
DUB
#4
Drifting
Member Since: Apr 2014
Location: montague michigan
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C2 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
And adhesive is used in this area.
I would use SEM 39747 adhesive. It will require you to get special gun to apply it. Call SEM and find who is your local SEM area rep and see if the will loan you a gun for a one-time use scenario. They should do that for you. And call SEM so they can tell you how you need to prep it so it bonds. BOTH surfaces should be really clean and ROUGH.
DUB
I would use SEM 39747 adhesive. It will require you to get special gun to apply it. Call SEM and find who is your local SEM area rep and see if the will loan you a gun for a one-time use scenario. They should do that for you. And call SEM so they can tell you how you need to prep it so it bonds. BOTH surfaces should be really clean and ROUGH.
DUB
what is recommended for panel glue on the 68 panels?
i am assuming it involves the same prep work on the panels as the 65?
36 grit wheel, clean and ruff both surfaces.
give me your insight DUB on anything i might need or run into...thanks for all your help... troy
#5
Race Director
Troy,
I will be glad to respond but start your own new thread in the paint and body section due to it is similar as this thread but different so it can be more specific when someone searches threads for answers.
DUB
I will be glad to respond but start your own new thread in the paint and body section due to it is similar as this thread but different so it can be more specific when someone searches threads for answers.
DUB
#6
methacrylate, very user friendly also just don’t get it on you. Can even be used to bond metal together. It chemically etches into fiberglass, so it is very forgiving in the prep work. A special caulk gun is required, and a lot cheaper on amazon.
#7
To the OP...
Being sure to rough up and clean the bonding areas, the simplest way to restore factory strength to the bond is to just use Cab o Sil as a thickener with either polyester or epoxy resin (whichever you have, but polyester would be considered "original").
Mixed to a paste with the consistency of peanut putter, if you let it squeeze out a little, it will give the bond a "factory" look.
Being sure to rough up and clean the bonding areas, the simplest way to restore factory strength to the bond is to just use Cab o Sil as a thickener with either polyester or epoxy resin (whichever you have, but polyester would be considered "original").
Mixed to a paste with the consistency of peanut putter, if you let it squeeze out a little, it will give the bond a "factory" look.
#9
A two part structural adheasive. It will chemically Bond any fiberglass composite, vs an epoxy adhesive mechanically bonding the pieces, which is still very strong, but I have bonded two rudder half’s for a sailboat together with this stuff and drove forklift fork through it, the fiberglass laminate failed before the bond does. Doesn’t require the prep epoxy does either, this stuff will eat a layer of grease off a part and still bond. The dispenser gun was about $70 from a local fiberglass supply store but can be found on amazon for a lot cheaper.
Here is a link to the one i use
http://instantca.com/methacrylate/
Here is a link to the one i use
http://instantca.com/methacrylate/
#10
#11
Or... for a full gallon of Cab o Sil of which you'll only need about a cup to bond a panel to the fender, you could spend $16 and have enough left over to do a butt load of bonding in other places. No special gun needed.
https://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...17488a1e69cd9a
https://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...17488a1e69cd9a