When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking to get a descent gun. I am not a pro and nor do I plan to become one. That being said I have three cars that I will be spraying in the near future and can justify a descent gun. Now don’t chastise me, but I have been using a cheap Harbor Freighr gun that has worked well for me. I have a couple of old Sharpes, but the HF gun is working much better. Just want something to lay down B/C. Suggestions?
Obviously gravity feed is much better than an old suction feed gun.
AS for giving you a name of a good inexpensive paint gun to use. I can not do that due to all i have are the top of the line HVLP guns which I need to work flawlessly for me due to I paint for a living.
I can say that a paint gun that has more holes in the air cap is generally BETTER than the paint gun that does not have the same number of holes in it. These holes is where the air is atomizing your paint stream that is coming out of your gun via gravity.. More holes = better atomization.
This may matter in some paint due to the basecoat is thicker than some paints where the basecoat is much thinner when mixed. So it all depends.
I know I have shot with some guns that were really the low budget paint gun and did well due to tweaking the mix of the paint adn knowing how to adjust the gun for optimum results. So testing your gun is wise before you just jump in and shoot the car. NOT every gun or paint system likes it when the gun is set to FULLTRIGGER PULL when it is being used or paint applied. I set my gun to 2 to 2-1/2 turns out on the fluid control. Thus...the trigger NEVER goes all the way back to where it can go.
When it comes to applying the clear...this is also the same issue. If your clear it thick...and your paint gun can not break up the clear into small particles...the clear will go on heavy and may not look good. This is also an area where so many different types of clears and if they need a reducer in them or not ...if the clear likes to flow out for a while after it has been applied that testing your clearcoat gun and adjusting your fluid control to make the gun you buy work for you. So it is up to you.
As you know ...travel speed of the paint gun, distance from the panel....the amount of paint being applied, air pressure at the paint gun and how you mix or tweak the paint mix are all variables that when one person uses a paint gun they fail badly.....while another person can use the same products and paint gun and have great results due to they TESTED it out first.
Sometimes no matter what you do...the paint gun of choice in conjunction with what is being applied on the car does not turn out the most desirable results that someone feels that it should.
YES...it can become VERY CONFUSING for a person to pick out a pint gun which is no different if you are picking out a handgun if that is your thing.
What works for one person may not work for you and like I wrote...NOT all paint are the same in how they are made. Thus the paint you are using and like may work well with brand 'X's paint gun...while the paint I use it will not work as well to atomize the paint.
So regardless on what you choose to buy I would still advise you getting it dialed in so you know how to set-up and adjust the gun for each product you plan on shooting through that paint gun.
Sometimes you may find you may need to thin your paint more or change the recommended amount of air pressure to get the paint to lay down as you want it to.
I believe I still have pair of a my SATA JET 90's here. One for basecoat and one for clearcoat. I do not use them any longer and retired them a long time ago. But they are not HVLP which is what is supposed to be used today to be complaint with EPA's 6H rule in effect. They worked GREAT but they used a lot of paint due to NOT being a HVLP paint gun. So try at all costs to get a HVLP gun...or at least a paint gun that is complaint to current standards.
Because technically. If a DIY'er paints 2 cars or more in a year they need to register with them and take the classes and use all complaint tools and filters when painting. Or at least that was how it was when the 6H rule can into effect years ago
I'm not a pro either, but have painted a bunch of cars over the years with my old Sharpe suction feed and recently decided to get a new gun. I chose the DeVilbiss Startling Line combo pack of primer and finish guns, HVLP. I also bought the Dekups too, which have been great and now I realize I could have just bought the guns and not the aluminum cups.
I was very pleased with the new HVLP DeVilbiss guns, and their spray patterns, and used them on my BS/CC paint for my recent Project Widebody. Just my humble opinion.
I'm not a pro either, but have painted a bunch of cars over the years with my old Sharpe suction feed and recently decided to get a new gun. I chose the DeVilbiss Startling Line combo pack of primer and finish guns, HVLP. I also bought the Dekups too, which have been great and now I realize I could have just bought the guns and not the aluminum cups.
I was very pleased with the new HVLP DeVilbiss guns, and their spray patterns, and used them on my BS/CC paint for my recent Project Widebody. Just my humble opinion.
I was looking for a good used Sata but couldn't find one at the time. I bought an Eastwood Concours that came with three different tips and a good quality Aluminum cup. I don't see the exact same one offered now. The closest is the Eastwood DeVilbiss plus gun. Except for the anodized color it looks the same. Gun worked great for primer, base coat and clear. I have a Sharpe Finex small gun I used for the door jambs, etc. When I sprayed the Slick Sand I used an el cheapo Harbor Freight gun and drilled out the tip larger. It worked like a champ.
09-26-2018, 07:38 AM
Best paint gun for the money?
