Norm07

DUB

I have repaired this same issue and I have two ways of doing it.

If you can...calling me would be better than me typing it all out... so...... if interested. PM me and I can give you my number so we can talk.

YES...the VPA will work but you cannot just apply it by itself.

YES you can apply mat and resin but there again you have to do stuff to the fiberglas to make this easier also due to that sharp 90 degree bend,

DUB

Norm07

So after a lengthy discussion with Dub...He talked I listened...I had a couple different options to rebuild the small ridge around the hood opening. In my case it was about 24 inches arount both curves at the rear of the hood opening (right by the latches). As per Dub's suggestion I tried two different options, building up the ridge with VPA and the other was fiberglass mat with West System epoxy. The VPA is tough but I found in this configuration, that small lip tended to be a bit brittle, and in an area where it would be exposed to the odd hit from a ratched or screwdriver it could chip. The other option was much tougher and I know the fiberglass wouldn't be chipped as easy. Also I have never worked with fibreglass/epoxy before this project but the amount I have done, specifically on the inner fenders and engine bay I am gaining some confidence in how strong it is and what I can do with it.
So here is my process to restore both sides....
Dub suggested a couple different ways I could go and used his advise to make a mold that would produce an "L" shaped angle that would follow the 24 inches, including the curve. I would do it in one piece, then VPA it to the surround and blend it in with more VPA and sand as necessary. The profile was close enough between the two sides so all I had to do was flip it to make the second side.
First thing was to grind down a depression on the inside of the siurround that would accept my fiberglass angle in a manner that would be flush once it was VPA'd in...

I traced out the profile of the ridge, rounding the corner using regular heavy bristol board. I traced that on to some scrap 5/8" Melamine I had laying around. I cut the profile using a bandsaw and one thing I would have done different was take more time to make sure it was perfect. Every little variance in the straight line showed up in the finished product and had to be sanded out. I covered the edges of the Melamine with aluminium tape and used plenty of automotive wax as a mold release agent. I also have found regular baking parchment paper works great. I used this between my mold and the chunk of scrap I screwed it down to....

Next was to screw the inside piece of the mold to the scrap melamine with the parchment paper under it. Cut up three pieces of fiberglass mat, and "loosened it up a bit to better accept resin and conform to the curve better. The fiberglass was soaked in resin and once I was satisfied there was sufficient penetration I put the outside of the mold in place and screwed and clamped it in place with plenty of resin being pushed out. Knowing how tough this stuff is once it sets up and dries I cleaned as much excess as possible away from the screw heads and clamps...

All in place waiting to set up and dry.


Next day it was all dry. I was careful removing it from the mold as it seemed somewhat brittle....but no way this stuff is super tuff. I was also careful with the first one as the mold was needed for the other side....and a side note...confession....the first one I did I screwed up and put the flange on the inside...you might have noticed the above picture...anyway good practice..... So the next one went well....this is the result once it was removed from the mold and cleaned up.... I made sure it was cleaned thoroughly with laquer thinner to remove any of the leftover wax. I also sanded all surfaces to eliminate the gloss from the molding process and make sure there was good adhesion with the VPA.

I then bonded the profile on to the surround with the VPA. I love this stuff....sets quick but you have to sand it right after it sets up or it turns to rock.....

All that was left to do was to clean up the top of the surround with a little more VPA. I also added a small amount of VPA to increase the thickness to match the factory ridge.





This repair was a fair bit of messing around but I feel it was worth the effort. Its something that no one will really notice but me, but I couldn't leave it the way it was.
Thanks again Dub for your help!

DUB

SUPER NICE! I am glad that you tested the different methods so you can see what would be the best repair for you. VPA is a wonderful product but it may sometime NOT always ne the best route to take for a specific repair. ALL things generally do have their limit .. when stretched to their limit.

Sometimes taking the time to make a fixture or a mold to do a repair can now be seen as a good viable option to spend time on to speed up a repair and actually produce a part that can be used for a repair.

VERY NICELY DONE!

DUB

Rodnok1

Very nice write up, thanks for posting your work.

VancouverL71

Thanks Norm and thanks also Dub,
I appreciate both of you taking the time to post this as this is an area I will need to address. It never would have occurred to me to deal with the lip of the hood surround in this way but it looks great. It amazes me what can be created out of fibreglass, a little ingenuity, and a skilled willing teacher and a patient detail oriented student.
I am getting very close to firing up my rebuild engine so once that happens I will be moving back to the front clip and will use this as a great reference.
Very much appreciated for sharing this!
Pete

Mike H.

Excellent write up and pics. Thank you!