Painting bumper covers
12-04-2018, 08:33 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
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Painting bumper covers
I need to paint my bumper covers on the C7. The front bumper is arctic white and will be painted the same color.
The rear bumper is gray and will be painted arctic white as well.
Sanding, seal, base and clear the correct steps.
Only repairs is some light scathes to the front cover.
The rear bumper is gray and will be painted arctic white as well.
Sanding, seal, base and clear the correct steps.
Only repairs is some light scathes to the front cover.
12-04-2018, 11:09 AM
#2
Race Director
As long as the raw urethane is not being exposed....your process is correct. IF you have raw urethane exposed...then the process can change drastically....depending on how large the area of exposed raw urethane actually is.
Use of a flex additive in your clearcoat is advised....even though many do not use it. Basecoat generally do not require a flex additive in it
I would say I would get the sanding paste or scuffing paste or gel and use it along with gray a scotch brite pad to get the new urethane bumper DULL. I do not sand on them... I scuff them and then wash them REALLY GOOD. Sometimes I will use a red scotch brite pad to get the gray primer on the bumper top dull out. Some primers on these bumpers can be quite hard to break though the shine on it and that is why I may need to switch to a red scotch brite pad.
TRUST ME...that sanding paste in a bottle is a really thick paste that has grit in it that does wonders to making the prep on the bumper less labor intensive and worth every penny. COMET cleaners also works also and I use it a lot...but for a bumper and knowing how the primer is on it..the sanding paste is better
The same holds true to your painted white bumper..use the sanding paste but with a GRAY scotch brite pad only due to you are scuffing clear which can be softer and easier to get evenly dull. Just make sure that ANY AREA that is SHINY is NOT prepped ...thus sealer or paint is less likely to stick to it.
Use moderate pressure and do not scuff it with pressure on the scuff pad like you are trying to push your hand through the bumper.
DUB
Use of a flex additive in your clearcoat is advised....even though many do not use it. Basecoat generally do not require a flex additive in it
I would say I would get the sanding paste or scuffing paste or gel and use it along with gray a scotch brite pad to get the new urethane bumper DULL. I do not sand on them... I scuff them and then wash them REALLY GOOD. Sometimes I will use a red scotch brite pad to get the gray primer on the bumper top dull out. Some primers on these bumpers can be quite hard to break though the shine on it and that is why I may need to switch to a red scotch brite pad.
TRUST ME...that sanding paste in a bottle is a really thick paste that has grit in it that does wonders to making the prep on the bumper less labor intensive and worth every penny. COMET cleaners also works also and I use it a lot...but for a bumper and knowing how the primer is on it..the sanding paste is better
The same holds true to your painted white bumper..use the sanding paste but with a GRAY scotch brite pad only due to you are scuffing clear which can be softer and easier to get evenly dull. Just make sure that ANY AREA that is SHINY is NOT prepped ...thus sealer or paint is less likely to stick to it.
Use moderate pressure and do not scuff it with pressure on the scuff pad like you are trying to push your hand through the bumper.
DUB
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Dale002 (12-04-2018)
01-14-2019, 01:05 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
Posts: 3,454
Received 83 Likes
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As long as the raw urethane is not being exposed....your process is correct. IF you have raw urethane exposed...then the process can change drastically....depending on how large the area of exposed raw urethane actually is.
Use of a flex additive in your clearcoat is advised....even though many do not use it. Basecoat generally do not require a flex additive in it
I would say I would get the sanding paste or scuffing paste or gel and use it along with gray a scotch brite pad to get the new urethane bumper DULL. I do not sand on them... I scuff them and then wash them REALLY GOOD. Sometimes I will use a red scotch brite pad to get the gray primer on the bumper top dull out. Some primers on these bumpers can be quite hard to break though the shine on it and that is why I may need to switch to a red scotch brite pad.
TRUST ME...that sanding paste in a bottle is a really thick paste that has grit in it that does wonders to making the prep on the bumper less labor intensive and worth every penny. COMET cleaners also works also and I use it a lot...but for a bumper and knowing how the primer is on it..the sanding paste is better
The same holds true to your painted white bumper..use the sanding paste but with a GRAY scotch brite pad only due to you are scuffing clear which can be softer and easier to get evenly dull. Just make sure that ANY AREA that is SHINY is NOT prepped ...thus sealer or paint is less likely to stick to it.
Use moderate pressure and do not scuff it with pressure on the scuff pad like you are trying to push your hand through the bumper.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KacylLc0xHw
DUB
Use of a flex additive in your clearcoat is advised....even though many do not use it. Basecoat generally do not require a flex additive in it
I would say I would get the sanding paste or scuffing paste or gel and use it along with gray a scotch brite pad to get the new urethane bumper DULL. I do not sand on them... I scuff them and then wash them REALLY GOOD. Sometimes I will use a red scotch brite pad to get the gray primer on the bumper top dull out. Some primers on these bumpers can be quite hard to break though the shine on it and that is why I may need to switch to a red scotch brite pad.
TRUST ME...that sanding paste in a bottle is a really thick paste that has grit in it that does wonders to making the prep on the bumper less labor intensive and worth every penny. COMET cleaners also works also and I use it a lot...but for a bumper and knowing how the primer is on it..the sanding paste is better
The same holds true to your painted white bumper..use the sanding paste but with a GRAY scotch brite pad only due to you are scuffing clear which can be softer and easier to get evenly dull. Just make sure that ANY AREA that is SHINY is NOT prepped ...thus sealer or paint is less likely to stick to it.
Use moderate pressure and do not scuff it with pressure on the scuff pad like you are trying to push your hand through the bumper.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KacylLc0xHw
DUB
01-14-2019, 06:45 PM
#4
Race Director
if you have raw urethane then the products used on it are specially made JUST to do that. So make sure you do not apply ANY SOLVENTS on it or it can swell.
When cleaning it and washing it off with water and wiping it down with correct water based cleaner...you then need to be ready to shoot whatever primer or adhesion promoter on it so the opened up urethane will take this product and adhere.
Does this answer your question? or do you need to give you a list of the special products....which may or may not be available in your area due to the manufacturer I use.
DUB
01-15-2019, 08:14 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
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Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
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What type of filling material can be used to repair road rash, where the bumper cover is grounded down enough to remove some of the urethane surface?
Using the improper solvent brings me to this next question.
The front bumper cover that I will be repainting has the invisible clear plastic on it. I removed a small section and some glue residue was left on it. What can I use to remove it?
Last edited by Dale002; 01-15-2019 at 08:21 AM.
01-15-2019, 09:34 AM
#6
Race Director
If the glue from the film is on paint you can use a solvent like 3M 8984. Keep it OFF of any raw urethane.
Applying HARSH / STRONG solvent to RAW UNPRIMED urethane is not a good idea even though people do it.
Contact SEM at 1-800-831-1122
You can use the cleaner by them which is part number 38353
And the 'Bumper Bite' filler/glaze which is part number 40489
For much larger areas of repair or cracks/splits in the urethane itself..... contact them directly.
DUB
Applying HARSH / STRONG solvent to RAW UNPRIMED urethane is not a good idea even though people do it.
Contact SEM at 1-800-831-1122
You can use the cleaner by them which is part number 38353
And the 'Bumper Bite' filler/glaze which is part number 40489
For much larger areas of repair or cracks/splits in the urethane itself..... contact them directly.
DUB
