68 Conv. is taking Shape but need advice.
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
68 Conv. is taking Shape but need advice.
I started this 68 10 months ago as a collection of parts, most of them junk. So far the driveline and frame are now complete and working on the body. I have followed the body and paint threads to get this far thanks to members post and the professionals on the site willing to share their knowledge. For materials I used Fusor 127EZ as a panel adessive, West System 105 epoxy resin, on the rear deck I started with the 105 with 407
At least the bird cage is perfect.
A tree branch had dameged the deck and quarter panel
All the parts are glued on!
fairing filler but switched over to VPA. I am not a bodyman so this is huge learning curve. Now that I have the VPA close what is the best light weight filler to use and what high build primer would you recommend? Sorry about the quality of the pictures, I dropped my phone to many times.
At least the bird cage is perfect.
A tree branch had dameged the deck and quarter panel
All the parts are glued on!
fairing filler but switched over to VPA. I am not a bodyman so this is huge learning curve. Now that I have the VPA close what is the best light weight filler to use and what high build primer would you recommend? Sorry about the quality of the pictures, I dropped my phone to many times.
#2
When I first started I was able to get a lot of info from Dub and others. Using the VPA was a learning experience however I did not use any fillers just the VPA. Then I went to an Polyester primer which was a lot thicker for filling small pin holes etc.. I'm sure others may have a different way but that worked for me.
Last edited by SB64; 02-12-2019 at 04:48 AM.
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks Rvzio. When you stayed with the VPA did you bring down to 180 grit and then apply the primer?
The car is a collection of parts and the rear deck lid was 3/8'' taller then the top of the right quarter. The frame is level and mounts shimed and tight.
I used several layers of VPA to bring the top of the quarter panel up to match the lid.
The car is a collection of parts and the rear deck lid was 3/8'' taller then the top of the right quarter. The frame is level and mounts shimed and tight.
I used several layers of VPA to bring the top of the quarter panel up to match the lid.
#4
Correct, 180 the entire car.
#5
Race Director
I agree...I use nothing but VPA as my body filler ( except for the headlight doors) and I do not switch to a body filler that is easier to use.
Yes...other people use a filer that is much easier to sand BUT it is not as stout and the VPA...so THAT is why I do not switch over to another filler.
YES...180 grit and you will be good to go and prime it.
DUB
Yes...other people use a filer that is much easier to sand BUT it is not as stout and the VPA...so THAT is why I do not switch over to another filler.
YES...180 grit and you will be good to go and prime it.
DUB
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thank You Guys, I am continuing with the VPA.
Rvzio I just went through you thread, Great job on the restoration and a very interesting read. I was hoping to find a easy way to fill the door gaps, are you using the tape as a support for the filler or does it serve another purpose?
Dub, I don't post often but I have learned much from the advice you give others on the forum. What would you use for the headlight doors?
Thanks
Ron
Rvzio I just went through you thread, Great job on the restoration and a very interesting read. I was hoping to find a easy way to fill the door gaps, are you using the tape as a support for the filler or does it serve another purpose?
Dub, I don't post often but I have learned much from the advice you give others on the forum. What would you use for the headlight doors?
Thanks
Ron
#7
The back taping process is to keep the product (VPA) from falling into the seam while applying. I have seen where some applied the VPA or mat over the 2 body parts and the cut a new gap so to speak. Thank you for the nice comments on my very long thread. Hopefully 1 day I will finish the 69 but who knows.
Oh, all the work looks very nice so far. Keep up the good work.
RVZIO
Oh, all the work looks very nice so far. Keep up the good work.
RVZIO
#8
Race Director
Thanks for the comment.
I use the EVERCOAT 'metal 2 metal filler'.
http://www.evercoat.com/product-deta...ber/100889/us/
The reason I like using it on any aluminum part...such as the headlight doors is for the benefits is has for one....then the next reason is I want the filler to look like aluminum instead of any other color.....so....if for some odd reason it takes a stone chip...the owner will not be looking at some pink colored cheap body filler....or the gold looking body filler or even the slate blue of the VPA. I feel that if it is still silver like the headlight door....and still needing to be repaired....at least it does not look like some fill work was done...and the owner can say the part is aluminum if someone asks.
DUB
#9
Melting Slicks
Great Work and very informative! Agree this forum is great too and much thanks for all of the helpful advice, particularly rvzio and DUB!
I went VPA too for filler and all SPI products except base.
(Although I seem to work waaay slower than anybody on here, ha!)
Here is a couple of tools I found useful (I see you have one of the first puppies):
and to match curves like on your rear deck, a large curve gauge (all from ebay). I used this gauge to make a series of cardboard templates to get my curves to match:
Hope this helps and KUTGW!
I went VPA too for filler and all SPI products except base.
(Although I seem to work waaay slower than anybody on here, ha!)
Here is a couple of tools I found useful (I see you have one of the first puppies):
and to match curves like on your rear deck, a large curve gauge (all from ebay). I used this gauge to make a series of cardboard templates to get my curves to match:
Hope this helps and KUTGW!
Last edited by 20mercury; 02-26-2019 at 02:07 PM.
#10
Yup 20, both of those tools are great for the work needed on a C3. I found the red tip handle putty knife with sandpaper stuck to it works really we for starting a tight door gap. Also flexible enough to do the curves of the door.
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20mercury (02-27-2019)
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks for the suggestion 20, I found the large curve gauge on Amazon. I would think most of us are slow when comes to bodywork, it's an acquired skill that we are trying to develop.
#12
RVZIO
#13
Melting Slicks
"You come to respect the many professionals that do this for a living and the work and effort that goes into a nice end result. "
Truer words were never spoken! I tell my friends that the most important thing I have learned is that anybody that complains about how much a first class paint job costs, should try doing a little Corvette body work and paint, ha!
Kudo's to moodswing for successfully tackling a major body work project, I'm impressed!
Truer words were never spoken! I tell my friends that the most important thing I have learned is that anybody that complains about how much a first class paint job costs, should try doing a little Corvette body work and paint, ha!
Kudo's to moodswing for successfully tackling a major body work project, I'm impressed!
Last edited by 20mercury; 03-07-2019 at 11:20 PM.
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moodswing (03-12-2019)
#14
Race Director
"You come to respect the many professionals that do this for a living and the work and effort that goes into a nice end result. "
Truer words were never spoken! I tell my friends that the most important thing I have learned is that anybody that complains about how much a first class paint job costs, should try doing a little Corvette body work and paint, ha!
Kudo's to moodswing for successfully tackling a major body work project, I'm impressed!
Truer words were never spoken! I tell my friends that the most important thing I have learned is that anybody that complains about how much a first class paint job costs, should try doing a little Corvette body work and paint, ha!
Kudo's to moodswing for successfully tackling a major body work project, I'm impressed!
I can say that when I get some customers who feel the process is taking a bit longer than 'they feel' it should take...I tell them to work with me for one day and then see what they think. Those that take me up on it never say anything after that due to NOW seeing what it takes to take a job to a stellar level.
DUB
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20mercury (03-10-2019)