VancouverL71

Hi Dub, Rvzio and anyone else that might throw an idea or two my way.

I am about to tackle what I think will be the most difficult part of my restore. That is repairing the front clip. I have a separate thread on removing and reinstalling the clip but thought I would keep this smaller repair separate.
The car is a 1969 convertible. The front clip was repaired some time ogo in the seventies or eighties and was not done well.

I am trying to come to terms with how to clean up the front clip and graft in some new pieces. The front left and right sides both need attention. I have a small piece that I would like to graft in but not sure how or where to begin and how much of the new piece to use. (When I say new piece, I don't mean brand new, I mean an original piece in fairly descent shape from another 1969. It is all I have and haven't been able to locate a larger piece so I suppose I will try several smaller patches and repairs.

So does this plan make any sense or does anyone have any better ideas.

!. Cut out the existing piece that is too far gone to try to repair along the yellow lines of picture 1 . The repair panel is laying over the original clip which is removed from the car and upside-down at the moment.
2. Splice (graft) in the new piece of the same dimensions
3. Shall I feather the edges of both the new piece and the original piece so they just about but do not quite touch each other and support from the outside while initially bonding from the inside.
4 Would it make more sense to just try just use the lip (about an inch of the new piece where the hood surround bar is riveted on) or perhaps should i attempt to use the entire large piece including the cut outs for the pop up headlights (I am not crazy about removing the metal hood support but am open to any ideas)
5. Shall I abandon this idea all together and find a larger donor piece as I have the same problems on the other side of the clip and the patch panel is only the left side and the middle. (Anyone have a larger piece or the right side front hood surround that they would like to sell)

Any ideas would be very much appreciated before I start cutting fibreglass without a clear plan in my mind.

SB64

The repairs that you are showing are all doable. With that said though they are also difficult in small repair pieces, why, because in my opinion there are to many alignment issue that would need to be done as well as the time to make the repair. Lining up the headlights, bumper, inner fenders etc. Don't ask how I know. My suggestion in my opinion is to find a hood surround, front clip or largest pieces. My current 71 project has/had damage to the front and I am challenging myself to make the needed repairs without getting a new aftermarket or original front clip. However the challenge is getting all the things needed to fit correctly. mocking things up is paramount to getting positive results. So in closing I would suggest the larger repair pieces the better, in my humble opinion. Also the hood alignment, the pictures below are just a visual of the many things to consider. Hope this helps!



Regards RVZIO

VancouverL71

Thanks Rvzio,

I can't not believe the enormity of the project that your are tackling! Its starting to look like a vette again. Thanks for the advice and if anyone would know it would be you. Once I start practice fitting the clip and rigging it on the frame I will feel like I am getting somewhere but it seems a long way away at the moment.

I will keep looking for some better parts but in the mean time I may as well practice my fibreglassing skills. My beaten up cracked inner fenders have being keeping me busy but I am now almost glad I didn't replace them as they are starting to look OK and have let me practice my skills (or lack of them).

Pete

SB64

That's a great idea Pete. You may be surprised at what you can do. Things may work out ok doing what your doing. Take your time. In my first line it's all doable and I see no reason why you shouldn't even try. If things go south you have options. Have you made molds before they come in handy. You can do it!

Norm07

VCVR71......my experience....rookie...I’m sure one of the more learned members will jump in....my front end/valance/bumper wasn’t quite as bad as yours but there were missing sections of front inner fender, messed up fit on the lower valance, missing bumper brackets etc.. I didn’t remove my front clip but opted to repair the front end while the frame was off. I did this and primed and painted the entire engine bay headlight area....big mistake. This is what I should of done.....assemble the bumper, bumper brackets, bumperettes and grills to ensure they all fit.
you will see in this thread I started....

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ggestions.html

I have had issues with fitment and I have had to carve up the valance to get everything to fit properly. There was a considerable amount very meticulous work that I did that I had to undo.This is my first corvette restoration and I am learning quickly that I have to do more work to fix previous bad repairs but in the end it’s worth it to end up with probably a better fit than it came out of the factory with. I agree with what Rivzio said in regards to adjustment. I would build the fiberglass around an assembled grill , bumper and brackets (figuratively) Oh...and I am getting quite comfortable with the constant pic and itch of fiberglass on my hands, arms and neck

VancouverL71

Norm and Rvzio,

Thank you both for the advice. I cut a large section out this afternoon thinking that either way, it will improve what I now have and if not I just graft in a bigger piece or even a entire now front surround. It is going to give me some good practice if nothing else while I try to find better larger pieces.

Rvzio, its funny but I was thinking I would try make a mold of the good side front lip from my new piece and try to put it on the other side. I will check some of yours and other older threads for some "how to" advice.

Norm07,
Thanks for the advice re test fits. I never thought of it that way but before I do any serious fiberglass and bonding, I will get everything in place, (even my bumpers and grills etc) I had not thought of taking it quite that far but in seeing Rvzio mock up with the bumpers and all, I will do the same.
I know these small bits of widsom from you guys will help me in a big way.
Thank you,,, Pete

SB64

Pete, there are quite a few methods for making splash molds. The one I chose was the one where you take the piece you are making wipe it off and remove any paint. Sand it down with some 220 and apply 3 coats of a paste wax. Any kind. Mix up your resin and brush it on the piece and apply your material. I use a light weight and layer it so I get the profiles I am looking for. I take a brush and apply the resin to the mat leaving about an inch along the edges so when it cures I have a place to slip a thin narrow putty knife under and start separating it from the piece. Now since we are in the paint and body section I am sure there are better ways but this one works well for me. Give them all a whirl and see what works for you. It's kind of neat to make and apply to the car capturing all the little profiles. Below are a few:
So you get the idea with a visual and I repeat there are many ways so give it a try. YOU CAN DO IT!!!!
RVZIO


This would have been an overlay of the cracked nose had I gone that way.

This one captured the profiles of the panel lip off my donor car.

Shaped and trimmed down and edges sanded.

This in it's first stage for the repair of the rear side bumper.

Sanded and installed inside the pocket.

Small door adjar button repair.

Completed!

Flanges for the rear lower valance for side pipes.

Getting there!

Completed, well almost.

VancouverL71

Thanks Rvzio,
will try the mould once I figure out what paste wax is and where to get it.
thanks again for the pics,
very helpful.
Pete

SB64

Sorry Pete, should have been clearer. Just wax the piece a 3 times to get a few coats. I would imagine any car wax will do. You just want the surface to be able to release the mold once it cures.

DUB

I would guess any wax would do...but this is what I use.



DUB

SB64

I like that Dub, need to get me some of that. Didn't know they had a specific wax. Good stuff.
Thanks

RVZIO

VancouverL71

As always Rvzio and Dub, Thanks

I took a crack at grafting this piece in, so far so good. EXCEPT

Such a rookie mistake though, I forgot to measure the opening I need for my headlights. I don't suppose either of you guys know. My 1969 headlights are exactly 9 and 3/4". I seem to recall that a paint stick if a good gap. It is 3/16 to that would make my opening required at 9 3/4 + 3/16" + 3/16" = 10 1/8".

Either of you guys know if that is correct for the 1969. (I realize 1968 opening are a bit smaller)

VancouverL71

I searched for past posts on the headlight openings and found an old post from Dub.

The comment being "Shoot for just a bit wider than a 1/8 " gap on the headlight doors and don't forget to add the thickness of the primer and the paint that will tighten up the gap". All other gaps should be more in the neighbourhood of 3/16"

I guess that means I will make the opening just a shade over 10" so paint and primer will close it to an even 10"

DUB

But understand that the way I do it is because I really concentrate on applying gelcoat, primer,paint and clear on these edges....and I have a very good idea on how far they will close in on each other due the the film thickness of what I am applying.

I have taken the time in the past to shoot test panels in my style of painting and measured how much material I am applying so I know the build I am getting. So when people come in and feel the door gaps are a bit wide ( or any gap for that matter)....when the car is done and they come back...the gaps are SPOT ON. And due to sufficient material being shot on those edges...the edges of the panels are properly prepped with as much care and attention and the outer surface of the panel and are as smooth and slick as the outer painted surfaces and not looking all jacked up and rough and have irregularities in them.

DUB