402 or LS6 Supercharged
#1
402 or LS6 Supercharged
I'm looking for some feedback and input on a major upgrade.
First, I'm not looking for max power or a dyno queen. I drive this car on the weekend and nice days- however I am looking for more power at not to a high costs...
Which would be better for power, drivability and longevity????
I currently put down 420rwhp.
I could
1. do a 90/90 setup, cam 224/228 lsa 114 or 220/226 lsa 114, stage 3x clutch and maybe a baby "bottle" (NO2) 50-75hp ONLY- costs about 5K-5.5K for about 50-55hp and 20-25TQ(470RWHP/430RWTQ) without the bottle.
2. 402 with Dart 225 heads or keep my Patriot stage 2 head, 90/90 and a clutch- costs about 8K-9K for 80HP and 75RWTQ(500RWHP & 480RWTQ)
3. Keep my 346- Forged Piston and Rods. ATI supercharger, blower cam and clutch.... Costs 10K-12K for about 550RWHP & 460RWTQ).
Obviously, the last one produces the most power, but at these levels more is required to keep this safe and running. Rear output shafts, radiator, etc.....
I do not want to deal with all the heat related issues of a supercharger or all the other potential issues...
I certainly DO NOT want to spend 10K and have problems or issues.
Costs wise, it seems like keeping the 346- doing the cam, clutch and 90/90 might be the smart upgrade or even the 402. However the 402 is 3K-4k for 30hp and 50tq. (ok, the TQ would be fun!!)...
Any intelligent thoughts, input or things I have not conceder???
Thanks for in input!
First, I'm not looking for max power or a dyno queen. I drive this car on the weekend and nice days- however I am looking for more power at not to a high costs...
Which would be better for power, drivability and longevity????
I currently put down 420rwhp.
I could
1. do a 90/90 setup, cam 224/228 lsa 114 or 220/226 lsa 114, stage 3x clutch and maybe a baby "bottle" (NO2) 50-75hp ONLY- costs about 5K-5.5K for about 50-55hp and 20-25TQ(470RWHP/430RWTQ) without the bottle.
2. 402 with Dart 225 heads or keep my Patriot stage 2 head, 90/90 and a clutch- costs about 8K-9K for 80HP and 75RWTQ(500RWHP & 480RWTQ)
3. Keep my 346- Forged Piston and Rods. ATI supercharger, blower cam and clutch.... Costs 10K-12K for about 550RWHP & 460RWTQ).
Obviously, the last one produces the most power, but at these levels more is required to keep this safe and running. Rear output shafts, radiator, etc.....
I do not want to deal with all the heat related issues of a supercharger or all the other potential issues...
I certainly DO NOT want to spend 10K and have problems or issues.
Costs wise, it seems like keeping the 346- doing the cam, clutch and 90/90 might be the smart upgrade or even the 402. However the 402 is 3K-4k for 30hp and 50tq. (ok, the TQ would be fun!!)...
Any intelligent thoughts, input or things I have not conceder???
Thanks for in input!
#3
Burning Brakes
i was in the same situation recently. but, going forged and sc will put out more power than you have listed easily and thats the way i went. if you go sc and dont want any heating issue then go with the kb(650+ is easy)
however a good 402 all motor is always sweet as well. i have a local friend who recently did a sdpc 402 w/ afr heads and tony mamo ported 90/90 and that thing pulls like a bat out of hell.
as far as heads and cam thats works as well too!! all are good fun choices. my opinion is to do what you really want the first time around. that way youll save money in the end from several different builds!!
goodluck and keep us updated!!
.
however a good 402 all motor is always sweet as well. i have a local friend who recently did a sdpc 402 w/ afr heads and tony mamo ported 90/90 and that thing pulls like a bat out of hell.
as far as heads and cam thats works as well too!! all are good fun choices. my opinion is to do what you really want the first time around. that way youll save money in the end from several different builds!!
goodluck and keep us updated!!
.
#5
I personally like the 3rd option. You will still have a very reliable vehicle with the supercharger, and have the ability to pulley it for more power later if desired.
3. Keep my 346- Forged Piston and Rods. ATI supercharger, blower cam and clutch.... Costs 10K-12K for about 550RWHP & 460RWTQ).
3. Keep my 346- Forged Piston and Rods. ATI supercharger, blower cam and clutch.... Costs 10K-12K for about 550RWHP & 460RWTQ).
#7
I would go the cheap route until you really need a bottom end and then go for the 402 build later. I would add the 90/90 (you can use this later for the 402 build), add a 75-100 shot (you can also use this later)
and add a good clutch (you will need this regardless). I would skip the cam swap at this point to save money since the gain will be minimal.
After you beat up your shortblock for a while and want more then you can go into the 402 build and all the above upgrades can be applied.
and add a good clutch (you will need this regardless). I would skip the cam swap at this point to save money since the gain will be minimal.
After you beat up your shortblock for a while and want more then you can go into the 402 build and all the above upgrades can be applied.
#8
Le Mans Master
Just keep your stock bottom end, get a ECS Paxton SC & run it at 8 lbs till you get the funds for better drive train.Then when you (IF) you need more than you could go 402 or forged 346 with 12 + lb. boost, That is all a up graded drive train and street tires will handle anyway without constent repairs. That will beat 99% of cars on the road
P.S. my car never gets hoter than 200 with the ECS kit.
P.S. my car never gets hoter than 200 with the ECS kit.
Last edited by 4DRUSH; 09-06-2006 at 12:11 AM.
#9
Ok if i go with the ECP Paxton upgrade and keep my bottom end. I still have the junk stock pistons make 11.2 cr with the Patriot stage 2 head... The motor can not run 7-8psi of boost with 11.2cr.... A question might be, can or how long could/might these 11.2 pistons handel the boost, but set at a max of 3psi's.... I run 93 octane but can add xxx I forgot the name of the product to reach 95-95.5 octane... might this work???? How safe with 3-4psi??
Last edited by jz06man; 09-06-2006 at 04:18 PM.
#11
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2003
Location: American Canyon Lethal Injection
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
All you need is stock Ls6 heads and cam to make big power with SC.
Sell your NA heads & cam.
Sell your NA heads & cam.
Thanks,
SC5
#12
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by SleeperC5
I like that thought..check my sig and let me know if it would work for me..
Thanks,
SC5
Thanks,
SC5
Only thing I see is your stock trans won't last long after that.
#13
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '06
It really depends on how much power you want. I'm old school and prefer N/A so I would go with the 402. If you think 500 to the wheels isn't enough, then you have already answered your question. Select option #3
Better yet, option #4: 402 and the Paxton
Better yet, option #4: 402 and the Paxton
#14
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by Roostertail
It really depends on how much power you want. I'm old school and prefer N/A so I would go with the 402. If you think 500 to the wheels isn't enough, then you have already answered your question. Select option #3
Better yet, option #4: 402 and the Paxton
Better yet, option #4: 402 and the Paxton
#15
Safety Car
It really depends on what you want to do with the car. I went with a SC set up, I put down 653RWHP at 8.5 Lbs of boost on a stock bottom end. If you are going to drive the car a lot, N/A is going to be a lot less trouble overall. With FI (superchargers, Turbos) the more moving parts you have, the more potential for failures. With a properly installed and tuned SC or Turbo, heat is not much of a problem, I still run my a/c in the summer.... coolant temps never go above 195 in stop and go traffic on a 98 degree day. Heat becomes a problem when trying to track a (FI or any for that matter) car on a 98 degree day which I found out this summer. Heat, really saps HP, esp if you are not set up for it (alky injection etc.) So each way has its draw backs but NA will probably be the least trouble overall of the 3. Good luck.
#16
Instructor
Member Since: Oct 2005
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just my opion. go big. do a 402/408. forced induction is nice and makes amazing power. but you can build a big cube motor that will make 500+ with 11-1 cr. it will have a forged bottom end and be good for an easy 200 shot. with this setup you are making over 700 and stupid ammount of torque with the nitrous/big cubes. your power under the curve would be better and run like crazy. this is probably as expensive as any of them but it would be sick.
this is my personal plan for someday. currently saving for the heads and intake atm.
this is my personal plan for someday. currently saving for the heads and intake atm.
#17
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Wow this hits home!!! I have been planning winter mods this year, since last winter mods where done
IMO, go with a normal CR (not super high, race gas only) 402, with dished pistons. Then if you want FI, change out to some truck heads to get your CR low enough, and then turn it up. This gives you options and lets you go through a few more round of mods.
TT... mmmmm I would love to do a TT STS rear mounts to keep my headers, but my heads are milled way too much for boost. I gues we will spray this winter????
Dave
PS Yea I know the SD 402 Tony M fast 90 car... it was fast before and must be sick now
IMO, go with a normal CR (not super high, race gas only) 402, with dished pistons. Then if you want FI, change out to some truck heads to get your CR low enough, and then turn it up. This gives you options and lets you go through a few more round of mods.
TT... mmmmm I would love to do a TT STS rear mounts to keep my headers, but my heads are milled way too much for boost. I gues we will spray this winter????
Dave
PS Yea I know the SD 402 Tony M fast 90 car... it was fast before and must be sick now
#18
Le Mans Master
Preliminary numbers are in on my procharged vert......550 RWHP with 5 psi and a conservative tune!!!!! Not too shabby on an A4 with 3.90 gears. Will report back once the car is completely finished at "The Docs".