12.4 QT finally
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
12.4 QT finally
I finally got my 60ft under 2.0! Ran a 12.44 on n/a motor at Evadale Raceway on Test and Tune day. I do not have a picture of the slip right now since I am at my office but I will post it tonight when I get home. But what I do have is a few pictures.
Engine:
-Rebuilt with stock LS1 bottom end, LS2 timing chain, Melling Performance oil pump, Custom grind for N/A Comp cam (Sorry I do not know the specs, it was already in the engine before I could get the numbers off the back to call them), stock gaskets (full through)
Heads:
-Shaved bottom LS1 heads (10.2:1 compression) with stock rockers, 918 beehive valve springs, stainless steel valve retainers, stock valves, Trick Flow chromoly push rods (74 long .080 ball tip), LS7 lifters
Intake & Ignition:
-LS6 intake manifold, LS6 throttle body, stock fuel rails, stock LS6 injectors, K&N cold air intake with carbon fiber oil-less filter, stock coil pack, Duralast Gold spark plug wires, NGK tr55 spark plugs
Exhaust:
- OBX Racing LT headers, OBX Racing X-pipe with test cats, Home-made straight pipes with stainless steal tips, rear o2 sensor delete
Cooling System:
-DeWitts Racing Radiator with internal transmission cooler, 160 thermo, SP dual racing fans (set to 175 degrees), Dex-Cool Extended Life (40%) Distilled water (60%), B&M external transmission cooler
Transmission:
-LMR custom built stage 3 4L60e (graded for 800 rwhp, but we shall see), Yank pro series 3200 stall torque converter, stock drive shaft, stock differential (2.72 gear ratio), stock axles
Suspension:
-Stock C5 coupe suspension with air-ride, active handling, and competition drive mode, lowering all the way on stock bolts (from ground to body approx 3.5", nose lowered a tad more than rear)
Wheels & Tires:
- Stock alloy rims (front 17x8.5 rear 18x95), front tire Nitto Motivo guide (stock size), rear tire Nitto NT05 street radial (stock size)
Body & Weight reduction:
-VIS Carbon Fiber 4" Cowl Hood with TRACKSPEC T1 louvers (weighs 15 lbs compared to 76 lbs stock hood), stripped trunk of carpet and panels (weighed approx 45 lbs), removed floor mats (not much help but did it anyway lol), car approx weights 3100 without driver compared to stock weight of 3,212
Tune & HP:
-LMR tune 378 rwhp, 382 rwtq, 93 octane pump gas
Let me know what yall think and give me any tips for a better time whether it be mods or racing.
Engine:
-Rebuilt with stock LS1 bottom end, LS2 timing chain, Melling Performance oil pump, Custom grind for N/A Comp cam (Sorry I do not know the specs, it was already in the engine before I could get the numbers off the back to call them), stock gaskets (full through)
Heads:
-Shaved bottom LS1 heads (10.2:1 compression) with stock rockers, 918 beehive valve springs, stainless steel valve retainers, stock valves, Trick Flow chromoly push rods (74 long .080 ball tip), LS7 lifters
Intake & Ignition:
-LS6 intake manifold, LS6 throttle body, stock fuel rails, stock LS6 injectors, K&N cold air intake with carbon fiber oil-less filter, stock coil pack, Duralast Gold spark plug wires, NGK tr55 spark plugs
Exhaust:
- OBX Racing LT headers, OBX Racing X-pipe with test cats, Home-made straight pipes with stainless steal tips, rear o2 sensor delete
Cooling System:
-DeWitts Racing Radiator with internal transmission cooler, 160 thermo, SP dual racing fans (set to 175 degrees), Dex-Cool Extended Life (40%) Distilled water (60%), B&M external transmission cooler
Transmission:
-LMR custom built stage 3 4L60e (graded for 800 rwhp, but we shall see), Yank pro series 3200 stall torque converter, stock drive shaft, stock differential (2.72 gear ratio), stock axles
Suspension:
-Stock C5 coupe suspension with air-ride, active handling, and competition drive mode, lowering all the way on stock bolts (from ground to body approx 3.5", nose lowered a tad more than rear)
Wheels & Tires:
- Stock alloy rims (front 17x8.5 rear 18x95), front tire Nitto Motivo guide (stock size), rear tire Nitto NT05 street radial (stock size)
Body & Weight reduction:
-VIS Carbon Fiber 4" Cowl Hood with TRACKSPEC T1 louvers (weighs 15 lbs compared to 76 lbs stock hood), stripped trunk of carpet and panels (weighed approx 45 lbs), removed floor mats (not much help but did it anyway lol), car approx weights 3100 without driver compared to stock weight of 3,212
Tune & HP:
-LMR tune 378 rwhp, 382 rwtq, 93 octane pump gas
Let me know what yall think and give me any tips for a better time whether it be mods or racing.
#2
Le Mans Master
Your next mod without a doubt should be rear gears. 12.44 with a 2.72 rear end (if I read that correctly) is really not bad. 3.73's or 3.90's would make that a whole different animal.
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks, and yes you read correctly lol and ok, I was having some others tell me to do the 3.42 due to my stall being a 3200, I don't really understand their logic though, since I don't really have that knowledge to argue with haha
#4
Le Mans Master
I wouldnt be surprised if just a rear gear change alone could get that 60' down into the 1.7x range and your ET down near the 12.0 range, maybe even clip a high 11, but I'd know more after seeing your slip.
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
My 60ft now is a 1.9 if I remember correctly. I believe if I had wider tire and slicks, 17x11, I'd help alot too, I don't have very good traction at the launch with these tires. the 12.4 was from a 2000 rpm launch. If I had sticky tires, I could do a high rpm and get a better 60ft.
#7
That's a 12 flat with a 3.42 or 3.73 rear
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
#11
Burning Brakes
I always had my best 60s on street tires by making them smoke. A dust off isnt going to help, too long and they get a little slippery. I would easuly be bottom 1.8s on street tires on a decent track prep and my buddies would get 1.7s some times. Play around with longer burnouts and see what happens.
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
I always had my best 60s on street tires by making them smoke. A dust off isnt going to help, too long and they get a little slippery. I would easuly be bottom 1.8s on street tires on a decent track prep and my buddies would get 1.7s some times. Play around with longer burnouts and see what happens.
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
#17
with some 3.42 gears and some good drag radials like M/Ts and playing around with the launch you should def. be in the 11s...
my old LT1 Camaro had nothing but a LT4 cam, 52mm throttle body, headers and 3.73 gears and on drag radials I ran 12.60s at 110 mph.. that car weighed a good 300 lbs more than yours and had 50 less hp..
have fun
my old LT1 Camaro had nothing but a LT4 cam, 52mm throttle body, headers and 3.73 gears and on drag radials I ran 12.60s at 110 mph.. that car weighed a good 300 lbs more than yours and had 50 less hp..
have fun
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
with some 3.42 gears and some good drag radials like M/Ts and playing around with the launch you should def. be in the 11s...
my old LT1 Camaro had nothing but a LT4 cam, 52mm throttle body, headers and 3.73 gears and on drag radials I ran 12.60s at 110 mph.. that car weighed a good 300 lbs more than yours and had 50 less hp..
have fun
my old LT1 Camaro had nothing but a LT4 cam, 52mm throttle body, headers and 3.73 gears and on drag radials I ran 12.60s at 110 mph.. that car weighed a good 300 lbs more than yours and had 50 less hp..
have fun
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
Over at a buddy's shop, he had some of these 15x10 rims with slicks on them laying around. We got bored and decided to see if they fit on the vette as a joke... well they did and it became more serious than a joke lol I'll have to raise the *** end about an 1" or so because the fenders touch the wheels when I launch. After I raise it, I gonna test them on the track yes I know they look strange on there and probably touch a soft spot on some people but hell, they are free and here, why not test? lol