What Diff/Trans are you running?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
What Diff/Trans are you running?
Drag race guys! I recently had a bad night at the track and blew my diff. I was looking at having my current trans and diff built... RPM of course wants me to swap to the TR6060 and C6z diff... which runs about 10k not including the new rear cradle needed, coil overs for the rear, and the random little things...
Who on here has built the T56 and diff in their cars? How much power are you making and how long has it been in the car? Is it really needed to spend the extra 7-9k to go TR6060?
Who on here has built the T56 and diff in their cars? How much power are you making and how long has it been in the car? Is it really needed to spend the extra 7-9k to go TR6060?
#2
Pro
I saw your post on the quick list and your running nitrous and making much more power than me so my input may not help
I'm 490 n/a, trans has billet keys and springs and bronze shift fork pads, rear diff has c6z output shafts, clutches and pinion support and I'm also running a trans/diff brace, I run test n tune nights at the track pretty much every chance I get, I easily have 200+ passes, I'm not easy on the car at all I run every pass like it's the last pass I get to make, my times probably don't reflect my effort but I'm still learning and getting better
my trans and diff have held up well with no issues, I've launched anywhere between 5 - 7000, typically around mid to upper 5's have worked best for me lately, I also run bias ply tires which are easier on the drivetrain
I'm 490 n/a, trans has billet keys and springs and bronze shift fork pads, rear diff has c6z output shafts, clutches and pinion support and I'm also running a trans/diff brace, I run test n tune nights at the track pretty much every chance I get, I easily have 200+ passes, I'm not easy on the car at all I run every pass like it's the last pass I get to make, my times probably don't reflect my effort but I'm still learning and getting better
my trans and diff have held up well with no issues, I've launched anywhere between 5 - 7000, typically around mid to upper 5's have worked best for me lately, I also run bias ply tires which are easier on the drivetrain
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I saw your post on the quick list and your running nitrous and making much more power than me so my input may not help
I'm 490 n/a, trans has billet keys and springs and bronze shift fork pads, rear diff has c6z output shafts, clutches and pinion support and I'm also running a trans/diff brace, I run test n tune nights at the track pretty much every chance I get, I easily have 200+ passes, I'm not easy on the car at all I run every pass like it's the last pass I get to make, my times probably don't reflect my effort but I'm still learning and getting better
my trans and diff have held up well with no issues, I've launched anywhere between 5 - 7000, typically around mid to upper 5's have worked best for me lately, I also run bias ply tires which are easier on the drivetrain
I'm 490 n/a, trans has billet keys and springs and bronze shift fork pads, rear diff has c6z output shafts, clutches and pinion support and I'm also running a trans/diff brace, I run test n tune nights at the track pretty much every chance I get, I easily have 200+ passes, I'm not easy on the car at all I run every pass like it's the last pass I get to make, my times probably don't reflect my effort but I'm still learning and getting better
my trans and diff have held up well with no issues, I've launched anywhere between 5 - 7000, typically around mid to upper 5's have worked best for me lately, I also run bias ply tires which are easier on the drivetrain
Thanks man! I appreciate your input!
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Diff brace is 100% going on the car!
Last edited by Awesome04Vette; 10-31-2017 at 03:29 PM.
#6
Follow this thread for the steb by step and parts required. Its pretty straightforward. And you dont have to pull the tranny to pull the diff.
I also recommend bias ply tires. That takes some stress off your drivetrain. You can slightly spin the tires and still recover for great 60's, unlike using drag radials.
I had ~650hp through a stock mn12 and a 3.42 diff 3 rib with c6z guts (following the thread above).
Now I'm 650-700 with a 4l60e and the same 3.42 differential.
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Awesome04Vette (10-31-2017)
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
You never said how much power you are making, so I'm not sure if you even need to do anything to the tranny.
Follow this thread for the steb by step and parts required. Its pretty straightforward. And you dont have to pull the tranny to pull the diff.
I also recommend bias ply tires. That takes some stress off your drivetrain. You can slightly spin the tires and still recover for great 60's, unlike using drag radials.
I had ~650hp through a stock mn12 and a 3.42 diff 3 rib with c6z guts (following the thread above).
Now I'm 650-700 with a 4l60e and the same 3.42 differential.
Follow this thread for the steb by step and parts required. Its pretty straightforward. And you dont have to pull the tranny to pull the diff.
I also recommend bias ply tires. That takes some stress off your drivetrain. You can slightly spin the tires and still recover for great 60's, unlike using drag radials.
I had ~650hp through a stock mn12 and a 3.42 diff 3 rib with c6z guts (following the thread above).
Now I'm 650-700 with a 4l60e and the same 3.42 differential.
#8
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for your input man! I wish there was a thread like that for the tranny too! haha. If I can rebuild my diff myself for less then 600 bucks I don't care how many times it breaks! hahaha.
#10
Pro
what exactly did you break, I'm guessing it broke launching?
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
yea. I launched the car and soon as I let the clutch go and then the spray kicked on it broke.
#13
Le Mans Master
Don't spend money on stuff you don't need right now like suspension. I wouldn't add more nitrous either until you max out the capability of your current setup in 60' and ET.
There's a bunch of little stuff you can do to help that doesn't cost alot.
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
I want to build the trans and diff. Do you guys sell a kit to do it or do you only sell them built and ready to go in?
#15
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
You can go with 30 splined T56 and a C6 Z06 diff that will get you into the 9’s without problem. Any more than that you should really consider the TR6060.
Best to just call us tomorrow to discuss your options.
Best to just call us tomorrow to discuss your options.
#16
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
You need to hook up with Rick above as he can get you the right parts and guide you.
Don't spend money on stuff you don't need right now like suspension. I wouldn't add more nitrous either until you max out the capability of your current setup in 60' and ET.
There's a bunch of little stuff you can do to help that doesn't cost alot.
Don't spend money on stuff you don't need right now like suspension. I wouldn't add more nitrous either until you max out the capability of your current setup in 60' and ET.
There's a bunch of little stuff you can do to help that doesn't cost alot.
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
#18
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idk if this issue has been handled for you, but to provide my .02 where needed i will say, I'm on my 2nd c5, first one had stockish driveline(upgraded couplers in the Tq tube and new clutch) and now this one i bought with a broken driveline. so when it came to fix it i found a killer deal on a used RKt6060 with a rpm built 3.42 diff and Z06 axles and torque tube. I'm in the whole setup less than 4k and still have the stock stuff to sell. with that being said....this thing shifts amazing, gear ratios are way better, tighter, consistent and she likes the beatings i give her. and i gave RKT a call before install to discuss fluids, told them i bought it used, etc and they didn't care, they gladly discussed fluids and what they recommend for it, even telling me to call back if i had any other questions. great people all around. goodluck with whatever you choose.