Dynoed at 378rwhp. Suggestions to get to 400rwhp+??
01-19-2019, 02:26 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Dynoed at 378rwhp. Suggestions to get to 400rwhp+??
My 01 Z06 with a RM Racing Y-Pipe Cold Air Intake fitted with 2 - 3 1/2inch cone K&N Filters, BBK Headers, Full Borla Exhaust, Smaller Diameter Powerbond Race Performance Harmonic Balancer, ACDelco Iridium Plugs and MSD wires just got a Tune and dynoed at 378rwhp on a Dynojet Dyno. I’m happy with that number but my goal is to at least slightly break that 400rwhp mark. I know not all the above parts I listed make that big of a difference to rwhp but I’m trying to squeeze out as much hp as possible without going forced induction or doing a cam. I’m not 100% opposed to a cam but trying to get to that 400rwhp mark with bolt-ons. What suggestions do you have? Intake and throttle-body maybe? Thanks!
01-20-2019, 07:27 PM
#2
Pro
Tony Mamo (MMS) Ported Fast 92 or 102, LS2 TB, a good CAI or VaraRam Ram, 1 7/8" LTs & good tune should put you over 400 RWHP on the same Dyno pretty easily.
Last edited by Navy Blue 210; 01-20-2019 at 07:30 PM.
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jmil1974 (12-03-2020)
02-01-2019, 09:57 AM
#5
My 01 Z06 with a RM Racing Y-Pipe Cold Air Intake fitted with 2 - 3 1/2inch cone K&N Filters, BBK Headers, Full Borla Exhaust, Smaller Diameter Powerbond Race Performance Harmonic Balancer, ACDelco Iridium Plugs and MSD wires just got a Tune and dynoed at 378rwhp on a Dynojet Dyno. I’m happy with that number but my goal is to at least slightly break that 400rwhp mark. I know not all the above parts I listed make that big of a difference to rwhp but I’m trying to squeeze out as much hp as possible without going forced induction or doing a cam. I’m not 100% opposed to a cam but trying to get to that 400rwhp mark with bolt-ons. What suggestions do you have? Intake and throttle-body maybe? Thanks!
Last edited by Mrsideways; 02-01-2019 at 09:59 AM.
02-06-2019, 05:06 AM
#6
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My 01Z made 403rwhp&414rwtq on a Dynocom with a stock cam. Combination is as follows-
Kooks 1 7/8” Longtubes, catless X pipe to stock Ti
Fast 90mm intake and TPiS 90mm throttle body
Callaway Honker
LS7 clutch & a Tune
if your willing to spend on a few things that most people tell you that you don’t need until after a cam, you can get there with some tuning. I’m a firm believer in the right CAI and a Fast/Throttle body combo will lift any C5Z over the 400whp mark.
Good Luck!
Kyle
Kooks 1 7/8” Longtubes, catless X pipe to stock Ti
Fast 90mm intake and TPiS 90mm throttle body
Callaway Honker
LS7 clutch & a Tune
if your willing to spend on a few things that most people tell you that you don’t need until after a cam, you can get there with some tuning. I’m a firm believer in the right CAI and a Fast/Throttle body combo will lift any C5Z over the 400whp mark.
Good Luck!
Kyle
02-06-2019, 06:40 PM
#7
Pro
Don't the really light weight clutches increase power. I haven't had mine back on the dyno but I can tell you 1st gear was use able with the stock clutch. With the Quartermaster 7.25 2nd gear on 315's with anything less then good pavement is useless. Butt dyno says the clutch was worth a lot more then the Long tubes were. If I can get a dyno shop to call me back I'll have it on the dyno soon. I made 355whp Stock. I'm really interested in what it does now. It feels like a different car.
I picked up 10/15 on the dyno going from 50# clutch to 30#, also gained 1 mph in the 1/8 mile
02-06-2019, 08:57 PM
#8
With a stock head and cam setup, that's a very generous dyno reading. Your "cold" air intake ain't, and it's not doing much; exhaust gives you a bit; a smaller main pulley gives you a few horsepower; new plugs and wires and a tune give you very little with these changes.
I'm not saying this to try to make you feel bad, by the way.
Given the large variability between dynos (dynojet reads a lot higher than mustang dyno), and given the large variability between shops (a lot of shops know customers want bigger numbers so they run more generous correction factors), and given the large variability between ambient conditions (air temperatures, altitudes), and other factors ... the numbers you get don't mean a ton if you don't use them right.
Using them to aim for a specific power level is usually not using them right. You "have" 378 rwhp, you want 400+ rwhp, but that's only a goal if your only desire is to tell people your car makes 400 to the wheels.
It'd be a lot cheaper to just tell people it makes 400 right now than to spend a bunch of money. Same result, really.
The real purpose of a dyno is to establish a baseline torque curve and power curve, which you then use while changing your car - changing hardware components and changing tune to match - in order to figure out what those improvements are doing, by gathering new torque/power curves and comparing them.
This is most useful when you're building out power in order to accomplish specific goals: faster drag times, faster road course times, faster top speeds, better driveability, whatever it is.
If all you want to do is focus on peak power figures and you want another 25 peak horsepower, then just slap long tubes, a better flowing intake with matching throttle body, an actual cold air intake, get it tuned, and you'll probably make it there. You won't even need to run it on the dyno, just tell people it makes 400 and they'll believe you.
I'm not saying this to try to make you feel bad, by the way.
Given the large variability between dynos (dynojet reads a lot higher than mustang dyno), and given the large variability between shops (a lot of shops know customers want bigger numbers so they run more generous correction factors), and given the large variability between ambient conditions (air temperatures, altitudes), and other factors ... the numbers you get don't mean a ton if you don't use them right.
Using them to aim for a specific power level is usually not using them right. You "have" 378 rwhp, you want 400+ rwhp, but that's only a goal if your only desire is to tell people your car makes 400 to the wheels.
It'd be a lot cheaper to just tell people it makes 400 right now than to spend a bunch of money. Same result, really.
The real purpose of a dyno is to establish a baseline torque curve and power curve, which you then use while changing your car - changing hardware components and changing tune to match - in order to figure out what those improvements are doing, by gathering new torque/power curves and comparing them.
This is most useful when you're building out power in order to accomplish specific goals: faster drag times, faster road course times, faster top speeds, better driveability, whatever it is.
If all you want to do is focus on peak power figures and you want another 25 peak horsepower, then just slap long tubes, a better flowing intake with matching throttle body, an actual cold air intake, get it tuned, and you'll probably make it there. You won't even need to run it on the dyno, just tell people it makes 400 and they'll believe you.
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turabo87 (06-17-2020)
11-03-2019, 07:48 PM
#9
Racer
With a stock head and cam setup, that's a very generous dyno reading. Your "cold" air intake ain't, and it's not doing much; exhaust gives you a bit; a smaller main pulley gives you a few horsepower; new plugs and wires and a tune give you very little with these changes.
I'm not saying this to try to make you feel bad, by the way.
Given the large variability between dynos (dynojet reads a lot higher than mustang dyno), and given the large variability between shops (a lot of shops know customers want bigger numbers so they run more generous correction factors), and given the large variability between ambient conditions (air temperatures, altitudes), and other factors ... the numbers you get don't mean a ton if you don't use them right.
Using them to aim for a specific power level is usually not using them right. You "have" 378 rwhp, you want 400+ rwhp, but that's only a goal if your only desire is to tell people your car makes 400 to the wheels.
It'd be a lot cheaper to just tell people it makes 400 right now than to spend a bunch of money. Same result, really.
The real purpose of a dyno is to establish a baseline torque curve and power curve, which you then use while changing your car - changing hardware components and changing tune to match - in order to figure out what those improvements are doing, by gathering new torque/power curves and comparing them.
This is most useful when you're building out power in order to accomplish specific goals: faster drag times, faster road course times, faster top speeds, better driveability, whatever it is.
If all you want to do is focus on peak power figures and you want another 25 peak horsepower, then just slap long tubes, a better flowing intake with matching throttle body, an actual cold air intake, get it tuned, and you'll probably make it there. You won't even need to run it on the dyno, just tell people it makes 400 and they'll believe you.
I'm not saying this to try to make you feel bad, by the way.
Given the large variability between dynos (dynojet reads a lot higher than mustang dyno), and given the large variability between shops (a lot of shops know customers want bigger numbers so they run more generous correction factors), and given the large variability between ambient conditions (air temperatures, altitudes), and other factors ... the numbers you get don't mean a ton if you don't use them right.
Using them to aim for a specific power level is usually not using them right. You "have" 378 rwhp, you want 400+ rwhp, but that's only a goal if your only desire is to tell people your car makes 400 to the wheels.
It'd be a lot cheaper to just tell people it makes 400 right now than to spend a bunch of money. Same result, really.
The real purpose of a dyno is to establish a baseline torque curve and power curve, which you then use while changing your car - changing hardware components and changing tune to match - in order to figure out what those improvements are doing, by gathering new torque/power curves and comparing them.
This is most useful when you're building out power in order to accomplish specific goals: faster drag times, faster road course times, faster top speeds, better driveability, whatever it is.
If all you want to do is focus on peak power figures and you want another 25 peak horsepower, then just slap long tubes, a better flowing intake with matching throttle body, an actual cold air intake, get it tuned, and you'll probably make it there. You won't even need to run it on the dyno, just tell people it makes 400 and they'll believe you.
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LeoLivinLife (05-27-2020)
12-16-2019, 10:41 AM
#11
Racer
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LeoLivinLife (05-27-2020)
12-24-2019, 09:42 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
It's silly to lie to people about the power your car makes. Anything in the 400whp range isn't impressive anyways, it's not the 90's anymore. 
05-29-2020, 10:06 AM
#14
Burning Brakes
06-17-2020, 10:37 AM
#15
Drifting
Now my car has A&A blower/meth making mid 600whp - and 90's. 00's, tesla/ZR1s & anything south of a Mclaren/Bugatti, don't matter - its probably faster, also - what kinda power/performance were guys getting from, say, a Supra or WS6 or C5 vettes? You ever heard of an STS turbo kit? Been making em for PLENTY of time.
Lastly, for OP, what YOU NEED IS A CAM. Period. Cam that pig. Why not? Its the main 01 Z starts @ lower HP level to begin with. Cam is a GREAT mod for these cars
06-17-2020, 10:54 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
Depends what you're driving, how ya drive, & tires matter a good bit too street or track. From your avatar it looks like you have a C5 Z06, when my C5Z was in the 425-440whp range I'd say it was PLENTY F'N FAST BRO!!! PLENTY - running NT05R in front NT05R rear, I'm not a 1/4 mile guy, but for sure a low 400whp C5Z is a mid/low 11 second car in the right hands, and at 3200 lbs, guess what? Its in the same ballpark LB:HP ratio as a friggin challenger hellfat, which - unless you get the widebody package - would have issues against a 440whp C5Z depending on the race/scenario
Now my car has A&A blower/meth making mid 600whp - and 90's. 00's, tesla/ZR1s & anything south of a Mclaren/Bugatti, don't matter - its probably faster, also - what kinda power/performance were guys getting from, say, a Supra or WS6 or C5 vettes? You ever heard of an STS turbo kit? Been making em for PLENTY of time.
Lastly, for OP, what YOU NEED IS A CAM. Period. Cam that pig. Why not? Its the main 01 Z starts @ lower HP level to begin with. Cam is a GREAT mod for these cars
Now my car has A&A blower/meth making mid 600whp - and 90's. 00's, tesla/ZR1s & anything south of a Mclaren/Bugatti, don't matter - its probably faster, also - what kinda power/performance were guys getting from, say, a Supra or WS6 or C5 vettes? You ever heard of an STS turbo kit? Been making em for PLENTY of time.
Lastly, for OP, what YOU NEED IS A CAM. Period. Cam that pig. Why not? Its the main 01 Z starts @ lower HP level to begin with. Cam is a GREAT mod for these cars
PS: OP mentioned he was at 378WHP, but didn't mention if it was SAE or standard or what. 378WHP SAE is hell of decent. I dynoed 385WHP SAE on a dynojet, which STD on a cool night would be 397WHP or on a hotter day would be 390-393WHP. At the end of the day it's just a number and that number varies from dyno to dyno, so in a way those that said earlier "just say it makes 450 or 500 or whatever the hell you want to say" are kind of wise in their words.
Last edited by turabo87; 06-17-2020 at 10:59 AM.
