PRC As Cast 225's with TSP 228/232 LS1 Results
#21
Drifting
Well it turns out that TSP messed up my order and did NOT include the hollow valve stems I wanted and they have shipped. Oh well guess that is why it was cheaper that I was expecting.
What length push rods did you end up using and did I miss what rocker arms you had?
What length push rods did you end up using and did I miss what rocker arms you had?
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
7.450" pushrods and my preloads ended up .060-.080" on LS7 lifters.
Ls6 style PCV is different than the LS1 style. I didn't want to grind on my block just yet to accomodate the switch so I am running the LS1 style PCV system with a catch can.
I am running the CHE style bushings with stock rockers, here is a picture for your enjoyment.
Ls6 style PCV is different than the LS1 style. I didn't want to grind on my block just yet to accomodate the switch so I am running the LS1 style PCV system with a catch can.
I am running the CHE style bushings with stock rockers, here is a picture for your enjoyment.
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
So I just ordered the PRC 225 heads w/ the dual .660 springs, hollow stem intake and ss exhaust valves, and I am having them milled for 60cc chambers to get the 11:1 compression ratio. Along w/ the TSP 228R cam, ls7 lifters, upgraded trunnion rockers, long tubes, catless 3" x-pipe, BB Fusion axle back, Dorman LS2, LS2 90mm TB, 85mm MAF housing, Melling HP oil pump, Vararam V2, 48lb injectors, and 10% under drive Power Bond Balancer, we shall see what she does with just having a small difference in LT size (mine are 1 3/4) and the 228/228 as apposed to the 228/232 for yours and the difference in intakes.
Also what length PRs did you end up with?
Also what length PRs did you end up with?
It comes down to assembly, take your time. Power should be similar, just depends upon dyno conditions, health of the motor, etc. The thing about 11.0 compression and a 228 duration intake came is your cranking compression and dynamic compression ratio get up there so you may end up being octane limited. I would also recommend colder plugs, such as a TR6. I ran TR55's (forgot I had them in there!) on the dyno and couldn't run more than 24 degrees of timing on the dyno without knock retard. Also the plugs, when I pulled them, were toast. WAY to hot of a plug for that setup.
#25
Drifting
Good to know on the plugs! I do fortunately have a couple of gas stations near the house that have 93 octane. I also keep a couple of bottles of octane boost with me as well as techron for every other fill up. So if I use the LS6 valley cover then I dont need the catch can??
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
Good to know on the plugs! I do fortunately have a couple of gas stations near the house that have 93 octane. I also keep a couple of bottles of octane boost with me as well as techron for every other fill up. So if I use the LS6 valley cover then I dont need the catch can??
#27
Drifting
Good my can just showed up today along with a truck load of other parts!
So OP the clutch you chose (the LUK) is going to hold the power you have now or should I go LS7? I am going to be pulling out my motor to clean up the engine bay and such so I might as well change it while I am at it.....of course that mentality is what has caused me going from a water pump replacement to a full H/C/I build with a steering rack rebuild and suspension and front end and new exhaust!!! My wife is about to kill me now I believe lol
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
I am the OP. I'm running a McLeod RST Twin Disc. Ls7 *should* hold these power levels.
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niterydr (06-28-2019)
#31
Racer
Thread Starter
Well I finally found time to get to the track last night at Houston Raceway. Since the Dyno I added a 4" intake and it's straight speed density now on the tune. Also had Tony Mamo port the throttle body. I think at this point it needs an intake manifold upgrade. I haven't had time to get to the dyno yet.
I was having trouble logging with my mvpi pro so finally got a log on the last run.
Drivetrain modifications I also swapped in a TR6060 and c6 z06 differential with some poly bushings and some braces.
Running a M&H skinny (17x4.5) in front with Hoosier QuickTime Pros in a 16x9.5x26 flavor on Camaro wheels (16x8) in the rear.
I've never launched on bias ply tires. First launch it was low rpm, kind of bogged, ran 11.91@119. 1.9x 60'
Second run I got after it a bit better. Better burnout, got some rpm into it (3500rpm), and slipped the clutch a bit to much. Here is the result, I'm car 203
Never mind the 1/8 mile mph, track was goofy all night in that reading.
I was a lot happier with this run. Car felt good and now I'm making progress.
Unfortunately there was a lot of breakage last night so I only got 1 more run in. Burnout wasn't good and I should have done a second one..but I was trying to keep the show moving so went to the line. Car rolled out, spun, hopped, I backed out, peddled, and got back in it. 11.7@119, 1.8 60'
So now a new personal best of 11.36@122. Tracks are closed for me until January. Plan on continuing with these tires until I wear them out, then going to a 15" setup. I don't think the car makes enough power to go to a 28" tire (so much cheaper for a 17") but those spindles are expensive! I wish I had more data. Guess I'll run it for now until it's time to replace tires or upgrade spindles.
I still think the car has a 10.99@124-125 in it with a bit more tuning and some more seat time. That's the goal, then nitrous or a blower. I think with more practice there is a 1.5 in this tire setup. Maybe add a fast 92 or 102 if I can get it down to 11.0-11.1 as is.
Thanks for stopping by.
Youtube Video:
I was having trouble logging with my mvpi pro so finally got a log on the last run.
Drivetrain modifications I also swapped in a TR6060 and c6 z06 differential with some poly bushings and some braces.
Running a M&H skinny (17x4.5) in front with Hoosier QuickTime Pros in a 16x9.5x26 flavor on Camaro wheels (16x8) in the rear.
I've never launched on bias ply tires. First launch it was low rpm, kind of bogged, ran 11.91@119. 1.9x 60'
Second run I got after it a bit better. Better burnout, got some rpm into it (3500rpm), and slipped the clutch a bit to much. Here is the result, I'm car 203
Never mind the 1/8 mile mph, track was goofy all night in that reading.
I was a lot happier with this run. Car felt good and now I'm making progress.
Unfortunately there was a lot of breakage last night so I only got 1 more run in. Burnout wasn't good and I should have done a second one..but I was trying to keep the show moving so went to the line. Car rolled out, spun, hopped, I backed out, peddled, and got back in it. 11.7@119, 1.8 60'
So now a new personal best of 11.36@122. Tracks are closed for me until January. Plan on continuing with these tires until I wear them out, then going to a 15" setup. I don't think the car makes enough power to go to a 28" tire (so much cheaper for a 17") but those spindles are expensive! I wish I had more data. Guess I'll run it for now until it's time to replace tires or upgrade spindles.
I still think the car has a 10.99@124-125 in it with a bit more tuning and some more seat time. That's the goal, then nitrous or a blower. I think with more practice there is a 1.5 in this tire setup. Maybe add a fast 92 or 102 if I can get it down to 11.0-11.1 as is.
Thanks for stopping by.
Youtube Video:
Last edited by niterydr; 11-18-2019 at 10:10 AM.
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#33
Nice results. I've got a similar setup with similar times. PRC stage 1 heads, TV2 cam and Fast 92. First run was 11.7@121 with 1.9 60. Added a degree of timing then ran 11.5@123 with 1.8 60. Didn't have time to add another degree cause I was helping my wife with her car. Still learning to launch with ET streets. How do you like the QTP's? I'm thinking I should have got those.
#34
Team Owner
Yah that 1/8th mile mph is off Good to see you run a good #
I assume you were on TR6s on that run?
I assume you were on TR6s on that run?
Last edited by 93Polo; 11-17-2019 at 09:27 PM.
#35
Racer
Thread Starter
I think if I can get a low 1.5 60' and lose some weight off the driver and maybe a lighter battery I'll get that 10 second slip.
Last edited by niterydr; 12-18-2019 at 11:23 AM.
#36
Racer
Thread Starter
Nice results. I've got a similar setup with similar times. PRC stage 1 heads, TV2 cam and Fast 92. First run was 11.7@121 with 1.9 60. Added a degree of timing then ran 11.5@123 with 1.8 60. Didn't have time to add another degree cause I was helping my wife with her car. Still learning to launch with ET streets. How do you like the QTP's? I'm thinking I should have got those.
They seem to grip well even on a cold night, but the track was well prepped. I need more seat time but so far so good!
I think a Fast 92 or 102 would pick up another 10-20hp on this combo based on research, but want to see if I can get that 10 second slip or consistant 11.0-11.1 without throwing more money at it. Need to work on the driver mod. At this point I am thinking of spending money on removing weight is better than another 10-20hp, less drivetrain stress.
If I get bored I may run it down to the local dyno and see if it made more power with the intake and straight speed density, try to get a +450rwhp chart.
Last edited by niterydr; 11-19-2019 at 12:01 PM.
#37
Racer
Thread Starter
Update:
Picked up a Line-Lock setup, 2 step, and boost a pump to install. Tracks are opening back up, so I should get the parts on and get the car back to the track. Not sure why but I'm rather "ho hum" about the results on this car right now.
Picked up a Line-Lock setup, 2 step, and boost a pump to install. Tracks are opening back up, so I should get the parts on and get the car back to the track. Not sure why but I'm rather "ho hum" about the results on this car right now.
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red03vette (01-17-2020)
#38
Burning Brakes
OP, I'm inches away from pulling the trigger on the PRC 225 As Cast Heads. I'm at 397whp/400wtq currently with stock heads and a .585/.585/228/230/112LSA cam.
PS: Fun fact, a C5z06 in Youtube with H/C/I (using Trickflow Heads and cam package) made 446-447whp and 411wtq on 23 degrees of timing. The cam used on that Trickflow heads and cam package happens to be my exact cam the .585/.585/228/230/112LSA. That particular car was insensitive to more timing and didn't make any more power nor torque from going from 23-25 degrees.
Couple of questions for you:
1. Did you actually measure your pushrod length to determine that you needed 7.450 or was that calculated or recommended? Reason being I already have BTR 7.400 and LS7 lifters with less than 20k miles on them in the motor and would hate to change them if I could get away with reusing them. (Yes I actually pulled my heads when I did my cam, even though I put the same stock ones back in, just to change out the lifters and refresh the heads and head gaskets).
2. What timing did you end up running? I think you mentioned 24 degrees but was that when you dyno tuned or street tuned? I'm thinking to start with 23 degrees when I street tune.
PS: Fun fact, a C5z06 in Youtube with H/C/I (using Trickflow Heads and cam package) made 446-447whp and 411wtq on 23 degrees of timing. The cam used on that Trickflow heads and cam package happens to be my exact cam the .585/.585/228/230/112LSA. That particular car was insensitive to more timing and didn't make any more power nor torque from going from 23-25 degrees.
Couple of questions for you:
1. Did you actually measure your pushrod length to determine that you needed 7.450 or was that calculated or recommended? Reason being I already have BTR 7.400 and LS7 lifters with less than 20k miles on them in the motor and would hate to change them if I could get away with reusing them. (Yes I actually pulled my heads when I did my cam, even though I put the same stock ones back in, just to change out the lifters and refresh the heads and head gaskets).
2. What timing did you end up running? I think you mentioned 24 degrees but was that when you dyno tuned or street tuned? I'm thinking to start with 23 degrees when I street tune.
Last edited by turabo87; 04-07-2020 at 04:43 PM.
#40
Racer
Thread Starter
OP, I'm inches away from pulling the trigger on the PRC 225 As Cast Heads. I'm at 397whp/400wtq currently with stock heads and a .585/.585/228/230/112LSA cam.
PS: Fun fact, a C5z06 in Youtube with H/C/I (using Trickflow Heads and cam package) made 446-447whp and 411wtq on 23 degrees of timing. The cam used on that Trickflow heads and cam package happens to be my exact cam the .585/.585/228/230/112LSA. That particular car was insensitive to more timing and didn't make any more power nor torque from going from 23-25 degrees.
Couple of questions for you:
1. Did you actually measure your pushrod length to determine that you needed 7.450 or was that calculated or recommended? Reason being I already have BTR 7.400 and LS7 lifters with less than 20k miles on them in the motor and would hate to change them if I could get away with reusing them. (Yes I actually pulled my heads when I did my cam, even though I put the same stock ones back in, just to change out the lifters and refresh the heads and head gaskets).
2. What timing did you end up running? I think you mentioned 24 degrees but was that when you dyno tuned or street tuned? I'm thinking to start with 23 degrees when I street tune.
PS: Fun fact, a C5z06 in Youtube with H/C/I (using Trickflow Heads and cam package) made 446-447whp and 411wtq on 23 degrees of timing. The cam used on that Trickflow heads and cam package happens to be my exact cam the .585/.585/228/230/112LSA. That particular car was insensitive to more timing and didn't make any more power nor torque from going from 23-25 degrees.
Couple of questions for you:
1. Did you actually measure your pushrod length to determine that you needed 7.450 or was that calculated or recommended? Reason being I already have BTR 7.400 and LS7 lifters with less than 20k miles on them in the motor and would hate to change them if I could get away with reusing them. (Yes I actually pulled my heads when I did my cam, even though I put the same stock ones back in, just to change out the lifters and refresh the heads and head gaskets).
2. What timing did you end up running? I think you mentioned 24 degrees but was that when you dyno tuned or street tuned? I'm thinking to start with 23 degrees when I street tune.
I'd start at 20 and work your way up. Easy to add timing, tough to add pistons.
I can get away with 21-23 degrees of timing at peak torque, depends upon how good the 93 is I find. Any more and the knock sensors wake up. As RPM goes up I can obviously add more as I am beyond peak cylinder pressure after torque peak.
FYI: I am putting on a Mamo ported Fast 102 here in the next few weeks or so (he's currently porting it), and will get back to the dyno to see what it does with the new intake manifold.
I also added a fuel pump +return fuel line and switched out the nitrous to a fast 102 plate setup, LS6 pcv valley, and a host of other small things.
I'd love to see 470+ whp, calculating that the car is right around 455 or so with the 4" intake and TB, but in the end it'll make make what it makes. Guess I'll find out soon enough!
Last edited by niterydr; 04-07-2020 at 06:04 PM.
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turabo87 (04-13-2020)