I read this whole post over. You need to do both front calipers. I am a fan of quality o-ringed SS sleeved calipers. But in your case just get a matching unit and see if the problem goes away.

Internal line rust can restrict flow and cause unequal braking.

Somebody recently did a post with a video of these really nice rotor run out shim plates. Rotor run out or wobble causes the pistons to pump and aeration of the fluid making them ineffective. It is possible that is why you have unworn pads on one side

they lock up and the pedal is hard, i am buy another caliper in a moment

i took it out and it had stainless sleeves the other side did not, it was replaced, but not in pairs in the past, appearantly

i just put another one in and i think it cured the issues, it's raining here so i kept the shakedown drive short

funny thing is both calipers felt roughly the same in my hands, some pistons harder than other to push in, but the left one was under performing.

are the fronts suppose to lock up first and the rears not at all cause that is what is happening

it didn't work drove the car to the gym and pulls to the right on braking
both calipers changed

I am going to assume you replaced the brake hose too?

I just replaced a brake hose in the front of a 76' due to the fact that it was not plugged up all of the way....

Jebby

So both calipers are the same now (not just new, but identical)? And both sets of pads are new and identical, and the rotors are identical? If that's the case, the next thing I would do is vacuum bleed the system. That will not only remove any remaining air, but the gauge will tell you if one of the lines is blocked. If bleeding doesn't reveal the culprit, and you know the hoses are good, I'd look for worn front suspension parts and problems with the rear brakes.

yes on my first post all braided steel lines

and see pictures

pads are same but one set is worn more bc of the overworking

one rotor is a bit more "polished" but really? it can affect it that much?

calipers are identical afaik

suspension is new 20k miles on everything

Sounds nuts, but try changing left and right front wheels and then road test.

on sunday when i changed the caliper on the pass front, i put the rear right tire on there and that one to the rear, so there was a mini rotation there


gonna try to re-bleed it, hard for me to think any run out could undermine a newly sealed caliper from orielly's


and i don't even feel any pulsation in the steering wheel to indicate a warped rotor or something as minute as a run out

Do you have a vacuum bleeder? A $40 Mityvac makes this simple, and you'll only have to do it once. I use vacuum on all our vehicles, including my bike (pressure method won't work at all on that due to the attitude of the front caliper). I personally don't think this is a runout issue, but weird things do happen.

you say vac is best?, i bought one of those once and it broke in the middle of a bleed, returned it

the bores may be harboring some air... we'll see

i have speed bleeders, between that and gravity, i think i can get a hard pedal, did on the right side

besides it's the left front; closest to the MC, would not driving it shake the air bubbles up to the MC and bleed itself?

going to try that first, before i throw more money at it

thanks for your suggestion

OK…I have read this post and and a bit confused……is the caliper actually hanging up or is it just pulling upon braking? If a caliper was "hanging up" you should see a major color difference between the two rotors. The one hanging up will be very blue from excessive overheating. From the pictures I do not see this or maybe it is just how the pictures look. If one caliper is just out performing the other you will get the pull but after releasing the pedal will spin freely without and dragging. If the calipers are NOT actually dragging and fully releasing then it is most likely a bleeding issue. Suspension will not cause uneven wearing of brake pads only the pull condition. So if you have both it is an internal brake problem.

Vacuum will remove air from the system that pressure won't. Whether vacuum is necessary in order to get a good bleed on our cars, I'm not sure. I just don't use anything else now after seeing pressure bleeding fail so many times.

Not a chance. Air in the line is compressed between two columns of fluid. Gravity is by comparison an insignificant force. The air will only move with the fluid.

ok i used a new little bottle of fluid and i go it to lock up and brake fine, then, it's started all over again, maybe the pressure is a "fail"

may have to buy a vacume bleeder, but why is the left front the only problem? and has always been?


i read the temps after a drive

all rear rotors 85* degree

Rf rotor 110*

Lf rotor 70*

I feel your pain. C3 brakes seem to be one of the biggest frustrations.
I had the same problem on my '77.
It turned out to be a faulty flex hose on the LH side.

Something is preventing the left front caliper from developing sufficient clamping force.
You may want to try swapping the flexible brake lines from side to side and see if the condition persists. You'll have to re-bleed the brakes, but it will give you an opportunity to compare fluid flow on both sides.

I use one of those el-cheapo vacuum breeders from HR.
While bleeding, I tap on the caliper with a rubber or nylon hammer.

Good luck. When you get this sorted you'll feel like this.....


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...85e9220956.jpg

no hanging, spin freely

i don't understand, the other 3 corners bled fine, the RF is not behaving

that kid is cute

i put in new steel braid lines all around, first thing i did

I read that you have new braided lines.
Swapping them will rule out a defective part, which does happen from time to time.

i put them in to try to cure the same problem,( pulling to the right) would be real a laugh if it contributed to my angst.

I missed the fact that the problem was there before the flex hose change.
That makes the hose a less likely suspect in my mind, too.