thanks Jebby, he did say I could have it sonic tested and said I could take it to have done before I pay, he wasn't aware of anyone who does it... he's just liquidating the older flat tappet stuff but after talking with him I feel my best option is finding a roller block as I'm not in a hurry.
I'm hoping to find a 880 block already machined for the pump push rod and tap bolts or at least the boss, I'm having the block fully machined and can have it machined for a mechanical fuel pump.
I've reached out to a few... one 880 and one 638 block both good and both original bores, I'm going to Austin a few days but gonna go check them out when I get back home.

thanks again. Bob

Have you thought of working out some kind of deal with the machinist to have him help you build your first bottom end? I did that with a engine builder speed shop owner and I saved a bunch of money and learned a lot about building power with a big block. Use "his" experience to propel you forward.

I used only Forged parts in the bottom end and I had to have a bunch of cranks magna-fluxed as most every one I saw had tiny hairline cracks on it and I rejected them. I was finally lucky enough to find a good seasoned Forged Crankshaft that was perfect. I thought they would do the balancing with the crank, rods and pistons on a testing rig. My 427 was balanced up to 7k rpm.

The cost is higher but today I would recommend a roller Cam and roller lifters just to avoid any problems with the hardness of the lobes on the Cam.

Plus you dont have to buy the tools
Cam bearings have a special tools plus all the calipers, micrometers and cylinder bore diameter tools

You’ll find that building and maintaining one of these cars takes many specific tools in your toolbox.
It seems like everyday I need another tool.

Thanks guys, I'm heading back home today and gonna go check out a few roller blocks over the next few days, I talked to machinest yesterday and asked about machining for fuel pump as well as early one piece rear main blocks but not fully machined for roller set up... he's got a bare roller block in his shop now and gonna stop by today to check it out... he's gonna show me the machining I'm looking for, also discouraged me from buying one that isn't machined for the fuel pump push rod hole.
I do plan on a summit rotating assembly kit and will probably go in the 383 direction.
he will be helping along the way with advice and gonna get machine work done through him as well as cam bearings and plugs installed.

Why though? Is he a very narrow-range old-school guy who likes roller cams, but not electronics? You can run a carb on an electric fuel pump. You can't run EFI on a mechanical fuel pump.

no it's me who is narrow minded and doesn't want electric fuel pump and don't plan on EFI... or LS.

If it's easy machine work, that gives the most options, and you get to learn something! :thumbs:

And by narrow-range, I meant time. I'm not sure roller cams ever overlapped with mechanical fuel pumps. The certainly did not in Corvettes.

Mercruiser and Generator/Ski Lift companies used a block machined for mechanical pump and roller cam.....

Jebby

Thanks again guys, I had a few online Walbro fuel pumps that got loud and growling rather quickly and just don't want to go through dropping tank for in tank fuel pump I don't need, if I ever change my mind I can always block off mecahincal fuel pump but not likely
he didn't really discourage he just said i could probably find one with, said they used to make a kit for alignment on push rod hole but doesn't think it's out there any more.
he also said I could find an 880 block already machined (said the same as you Jebby, truck blocks went longer with the mecahincal fuel pump and marine) but easier to find a 638 block already machined but make sure it's machined for the roller cam... thats why I'm gonna stop at his shop today to check one out.
I have a few lined I'm that I see from the pics have a block off plate... I'm assuming that means they are machined with the 1/2" push rod hole but will see

I've been following this, mostly as it's just interesting car stuff.
Thought I'd interject a thought for you.
on a 80 Corvette, You DO NOT need to drop the tank to run a intank electric fuel pump.
A 82 sending unit with the float arm rebent can be dropped in from the top. It's done all the time on 78-81's.
Running a intank pump has proven it's self to be very reliable. And really opens up available blocks for your application.
I realise you have a mind set on this, but food for thought.

thanks 4-vettes and will be giving it some thought, I found a few blocks, two with the hole machined and two without, but electric fuel pump does open up options down the road as well, I am more likely to go over on my plans than under... afterall this started with a little coolant leak on my manifold.
I spent some time with the machinist Saturday to see a few roller machined blocks he had open, i havent pulled the trigger yet because he has a line on a good one, showed him a few photos of a few im looking at and he pointed out some discoloration on one main cap... was darker than the others and suggested to remove any darker caps for inspect and what to look for.
I travel for work so only have the weekends to find one and get the ball rolling with machine work, but should have one by end of next weekend, thanks again.