Strainge noise from the cluster???
 

Here is a new one I have never seen a problem on, natural that I would have this problem though. Drove my car to work today for the first time in forever, went to lunch all was fine. Come back out and start the car and when the dinging starts after you start the car up, it almost sounded like a blown speaker for the dinger, but now it like sounds like scratchy all the time. It does it even when the car isnt on! Has no effect on rev's, turning or anything it does it randomly all the time, sometimes constant sometimes it stops for a few seconds. It is actually vibrating the dash a bit from what seems to be right behind where the heads up controls would mount to.
Any ideas??

That's where the Speaker is mounted. It's probably gone bad just like a speaker for the radio can go bad. So, I think you already diagnosed the problem.

Heres a few post for you:


- C5 Gage Cluster disassembly - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1570380674

- C5 Gage Cluster Post - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1570380878

Ok, but its not just doing it during the dinging, its doing it ALL the time...even when the car is off, you walk away from the car and its still making noise. It vaguely sounds like trying to tune in a bad radio station.

Sounds like the speaker driver in the IPC is NOT happy. Try this: (grasping at straws)

Disconnect the battery NEG lead for a few min. Reconnect and see if theres a difference. When you reconnect the battery,,,make sure that you clear ALL the DTCs that sometimes appear when the BATT IS DISCONNECTED/RECONNECTED.

BC

Now we need a schematic of the IPC. Not availible, I don't think. We know there is one somewhere in the world, but where is the problem. Maybe Evil Twin knows someone up HIGH???? Some times it's not what you know, but WHO you know.:thumbs:


Maybe Never Too Loud played his Chime Too Loud.

Ha, i wish that were the case, then I would be able to just replace the speaker :) Obviously there is something wrong with possibly the driver like Bill said. I will have to see if i can get out in the garage tonight to try that. It does it whether or not the car is running so i just gotta flick the ignition on and it will do it.

Ok, so i have tried bill's idea of pulling the cable from the battery with no luck. I sat in the garage with the car off, ignition on and it was very quiet in the garage until i turned the ignition on and then the cluster started going nuts with noises. It doesnt really stop, it just gets quieter, until you hit a button or something and then it starts getting really loud again. So nobody has really had this problem huh?

TTT... anybody????

Ideas? For the time being I disconnected the speaker

Ok,,grasking at straws but,,,try this:

The IPC is serial data buss connected. The LDCM & RDCM and SCM can effect the IPC operation if the serial data wire in thoose modules gets corrupt. (Seen it numerous times before.)

Next to the BCM are TWO thin gray connectors. These are the STAR Class II serial data buss terminals. On one of the terminal connectors you will have FOUR wires. Those are the serial data wires for the LDCM & RDCM and SCM .

The top of that connector is a shorting buss and pops off. Once its off,,it will isolate those modules from the other modules. Isolate those modules (LDCM & RDCM and SCM ) by removing the top and see if the problem clears up. If not let me know and I will dig a little deeper.:crazy:

Alright Bill, I finally got around to removing the cluster to hook the speaker back up (newborns do that to you...) I disconnected the "star" connector completely and the cluster still makes noise. Obviously nothing works in either door at this point. I am fairly good at diagnosing items, but at this point im shooting strictly to a cluster problem but i hate to just pin the needle on that already...

Theres a high voltage power supply in the cluster for the florescent black lights. Disconnect that power supply and see if the noise goes away. A guy in England failed his inspection due to the car emitting excessive EMI RFI. Thats what was causing his issue.

BC

Would this just be the green plug?

YES.. Heres a post for you that I found very interesting:

-- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1570380674

Correct post UP-DATED

Was this the right post? I have read through this post at one time, but do not recall anything because related to the cluster? I have done a few things to try to isolate the noise tonight. I have disconnected the flourescent transformer behind the cluster. The speaker was still making odd nosies so i disconnected the 2 white plugs on the transformer as well. The noise seemed to go away for a bit so I started the car and let it run for a bit. Granted its almost impossible to hear anything while the car is running in the garage (B&B Bullets w/longtubes) I still didnt hear anything. I thought all was fixed until I put the 2 nuts on the steering column and started to bolt up the column I heard a faint noise starting up. I turned on the ignition again without the car running and here comes the noise again....Im about to pull my hair out at this point. Im guessing it has to be a cluster problem of some kind?

I posted the wrong post.:crazy: Its fixed and now has the correct one.

I'm not giving up. Try this:

Look where the speaker connects to the circuit board. Follow the circuit traces back and see what components it connects to. Look for poor solder joints and maybe you can find some common component with part numbers on it like an IC chip. Use a magnifying glass or a Lupe to inspect the board. The IC Amp that feeds the speaker could be going bad.

BC

When I get more time I will have to dig into it deeper. I cant really swap my cluster, or even the board because the same board that would have the speaker amp also stores the mileage, etc.

This must be a tri layer board...I have it out and the traces are inside the board and you cannot follow them. Now im lost...

I had the same problem than you have. I'm not a good electrician so the forum advices I followed are:
1- disconnect the fuse #17 and put it back (the sound stop drastically);
2- I cleaned the 2 connections in the rubber tube between the doors and the car body.:
For me it solved the problem at 95%. I still hear a small "tac tac" but nothing compare the what I used to hear. It's the best I could do for now.
One guy on this forum told us the other day that by cleaning the 2 connections I just told you fix completely the noise problem for him.

I have disconnected the serial bus to eliminate the doors so i dont think that would work? I have gone further into it, I have tried disconnected all of the serial bus altogether, the noise still goes. Keep in mind this is with the car off... moving the wires by the BCM seemed to make it come and go, but what doesnt make sense is that I disconnected the BCM completely and it still makes noise. This was something that came all of a sudden when it started which is very odd. I remember it being a warmer day, i had my roof off. I went to mcdonalds down the street from work with a friend, all was well. Came out from work 5 hours later and this noise was present and very loud. Anybody else got an idea short of replacing the IP board and taking it to the dealer to get the mileage reprogrammed?

ttt I have a cluster on the way, but I'd like to hear any opinions prior to installing!

TTT I have recorded a video for anybody that wants to listen to what it is doing. Sorry for the large file, its a Flip HD. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZH7ZU8aOd0

Man,I can understand your frustration,that sound is worse than the sound comes across the TV when theres a hurricane or storm warning broadcasted!I hope you find the issue before you go bald!:thumbs:

Holy Hell! Thats flippen ugly! Man I feel SORRY for you having to listen to that crap.
That could be used in place of water boarding!!!:eek:

You could re-name your forum name to ALWAYS TOO LOUD! :eek: :lol:

Yep, that sounds like the speaker driver amp is breaking down and producing noise. Too bad we don't have schematics for that cluster, That would be fun to troubleshoot.

BC

I guess I just dont understand how its getting any kind of signal to continue making noise well after the signals go to the amp? It continues for a few minutes after you take out the key and shut the door...until the BCM shuts it down im guessing, becuase it will start up the instant you open the door or turn the key on. I have a cluster coming, The problem I forsee is getting my mileage correct. I believe this speaker amp to be on the back board of the cluster, but im not positive. I also believe this is the same board that stores the mileage...is this correct?

You can have the mileage changed by the dealer. Just contact them and see what is required. There authorized to do it if you have all the correct paperwork for your car.

Well, an update on this...I got a new cluster, had to swap the oil pressure and temp gauges into it, but the problem is gone!!! Now I just need to have the mileage programmed as its quite far off....Anybody have an idea of what the book time is for programming the mileage so I can determine how much lube to bring with me to the dealer? Also, if I could find someone with a tech II would is this what the programming is completed through?
Thanks for the help all!

The TECH 2 will NOT be able to program the mileage. It takes special equipment. Just call around to the dealer ships and see what each one tells you. Make sure that you ask them if theres any special paperwork that you need to bring as most are very specific on documentation required to do federal stuff.

Too bad a schematic wasnt available to just repair the old one with these parts!

So I called my dealer today, which was about the largest Chevy dealer in the Madison area, and they told me they do not have the software to program a 2000 Corvette cluster. They said they would have to ship it out to Specmo to the tune of around $450. This sounds fairly insane...and I really dont want to remove it again, it was so nice to have my car put together for a little while!!! Any ideas? ANYBODY!!! I wish i could just somehow get a schematic for this cluster and swap components to fix my original.

:willy::eek: Thats just INSANE! There are people on THIS FORUM that have the equipment to do what you need to adjust the mileage.... :thumbs:
We just need to find out who they are.

Make a NEW post and ask for assistance on adjusting the mileage on a new IPC. Put it in the PARTS FOR SALE & TECH SECTION. Someone will either know who can help you or chime in and provide the service. Also GOGGLE vehicle mileage adjustment or something to that effect.

Bill

Will do, thanks Bill!

HELP!! I have the same problem with my IPC as Nevr2Loud and was following this thread to look for the problem. I tried Bill's test "The top of that connector is a shorting buss and pops off. Once its off,,it will isolate those modules from the other modules. Isolate those modules (LDCM & RDCM and SCM ) by removing the top and see if the problem clears up. If not let me know and I will dig a little deeper." and now the windows and power door lock won't operate. I have replaced the shorting block top, which is all plastic. Did I loose some metal part or what? Any idea what removing and replace this top could have done?

If you pop the tops off the serial buss connector, there should be male pins inside the top. If there isnt, they pulled out of the top and you neeed to CAREFULLY EXTRACT them from the bottom connector and glue them in the top part.

BC

Thanks Bill, I have a meeting I was just leaving for tonight, I'll check tomorrow (There are no male pins in my top connector) and see if I can extract them from the female receiver and repair. Will let you know once I check tomorrow.

Bill,
Okay I inspected the Star 2 connector and the pins are not in it, they must have flip out to who knows where as I have searched all over the interior and exterior of the car and can't find the sucker. I did read thread ( http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-help.html ) and see Lucky131969 has a picture of the star connector and cap for the star2 connector. I found the GM part number (12167598 ) for the 12 pin plug, my local dealership wants $36 for it, so I'll be looking on line to order one. The star2 plug only has 4 wires as you know, am I looking at the right part number here, the one with 12 pins as in the picture?

Clyde

Please post some pictues of your plug and cap. BOTH plugs are the same. If there is no pins in the cap, the car will not run or the door modules and , seat module will not function in any of the remote modes.

I have made pictures, but the forum will not allow me to send attachments, I will contact you direct and if you respond to that I can e-mail them to you. My car will run in the present state, but has no communication with the LDCM,RDCM, or SCM. Also as you stated the power windows, power door locks, or memory function will not work.

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