Body Off to Replace Steel Brake Line??
 

Has anyone replaced the driver's side steel brake line (the one that runs the length of the frame) with the body on the car?

Thanks!

It's not easy, but it can be done with body on. Fuel lines can also be done body-on but most people end up splicing the supply line.

Just did this in my 69. Actually, it wasn't too bad. Having the car on a lift and the replacement lines on hand will make the job a lot easier.

We started by cutting the long line to the rear in half. Years of rust and corrosion made the process of removing the original brake line clips, which of course are mounted to the inside of the frame, very difficult. By cutting the line in half, we were better able to manipulate the line, particularly at the rear where it passes over the crossmember and makes several 90 degree turns. It turned out that my original line was so rusted that it broke in several places as we tried to pull it out. Once the old line was removed, accessing the brake line clips inside the frame was pretty easy.

Installing the new line was straight forward. We started at the rear and everything just sorta fell into position. After all connections had been made, we connected the front end. Once we were satisfied that everything was as it should be, we made a few minor adjustments to the line (pulled and tugged) to bring it closer to the frame. Although several of the clips were a challenge (up in tight spots), we did manage to get them all back on with an open end wrench.

All in all, not too bad of a job with the car in the air.

Mark

I did it with the car on jackstands - it's not a piece of cake but doable...

:iagree:

Did both, gas and brake lines....

What tricks can you offer regarding the GAS line? I also did the brake lines with the body on, but didn't do the GAS - and I now need to!

TIA,
Paul

Thanks for the feedback everyone - might just give it a try!

On the fuel line.... I replaced mine with a high quality stainless steel, braided hose. Ran it in the same location as the solid line and took no time at all.

I removed my old brake line (1968). Installed a new brake line and knurled the fastner at the end of the line. Removed this brake line and installed a new line. Discovered the tube company had mistakenly sent me a brake line for a car with PB. I have manual brakes. Removed this incorrect new line. Installed another new line. This is with the body on. Yes!!! you can remove and replace brakes lines with the body on. Also, I was installing stainless steel lines which is more difficult since the stuff doesn't bend.

If have a detailed description in a previous thread of other detail about taking the lines in and out.

....Now can someone tell me how to replace the gas lines with the body onl. I'm just about ready to lift the body and I really don't to do it.

Thanks

You will have to install at least a section of rubber hose (braided or not) in front of the rear wheel, there's no way you can replace this fuel line with the body in place. I'll replace my fuel line soon, very likely this summer - I'll install a braided hose all the way from the tank to the pump. the fuel line is not pressurized so I don't see any reason why it must be tubing.....

Yup, the vertical run about 4"-6"....if done right, you can't see the rubber line.

I replaced that section between tank outlet and below the vertical section with 1 piece rubber hose because the old tubing leaked above the rear wheel. Now I have two black rubber hoses there and you can't really see them unless you look close in the gap between tire and fiberglass.... it's a quick and cheap fix until I replace the entire line with braided hose.
the only reason for the SS braided hose IMO is dirt, stones and other stuff hitting it under the car... just to be safe(r)....

Lots of good info on this thread. I wish I had known what 68/70Vette said before I tried my fuel line install:

"Also, I was installing stainless steel lines which is more difficult since the stuff doesn't bend."

The stainless stuff will not bend at all. It will collapse at the bends if you try to manuever it into position (However, a SS brake line install can be done with the car up in the air). Also, I would replace the distribution block at the left rear. Re-using blocks sometimes causes leaks and this one is difficult to replace with the lines in.

I also removed the brake line. just a few months ago. Not the worst job I ever did. I was painting the frame and not only was it in the way, it had some rust. Cleaned it up and painted with POR-15. I would suggest when replacing it that the existing one be removed as best as possible so that the replacement can be double checked to ensure it is bent correctly. It is somewhat tough getting the clips on and mounted to the frame rail, especially in the back where it make a couple of 90* bends. I did replace the brake line from the trailing arms to the calipers with stainless steel. The new lines were not bent correctly and made the installlation more difficult; hence, why I said to try and get the old one out intact.

I replaced mine on my 73 convert with a stainless steel replacement line (fuel & vent). I raised the body about 12 inches only to find most of my rear frame mounts were rusted and needed to be repaired - "Scope Creep!!"

I'm actually happy that I fixed my frame mounts, installed poly bushings and have one piece stainless steel lines front to rear. Alot of work but hopefully worth it.

Detailed Brake Line Threa
 

Looking to replace brake lines on my '77. Already removed all the old lines, do you think you could send me the link to your thread about putting the new lines on? Thank you!

Did you use the same diameter hose as the stock line is?

to keep the fuel delivery equal to the original, I would. JMO

Exactly the thing I had in mind!

Can you send me a copy of the thread you talk about above, ref. ( I have a detailed description in a previous thread of other detail about taking the lines in and out.

THX

+1. I did that too. If you have 2 people it is easier.