This truly solved my "hunting for idle" problem.
I just unplugged this little vacuum hose leading to somewhere.
http://c.myspace.com/Groups/00007/28/97/7097982_l.jpg It leads up to the TB and the end looks like a 90 degree spark plug boot. http://c.myspace.com/Groups/00007/10/08/7098001_l.jpg Now, I hear a hissing sound and my driveability has improved 100%. No more stalling shortly after warm start and the dreaded hunting for idle. :cheers: Oh someone get me a beer quick after knocking my head for 11 months trying to figure this stupid idle problem. :party: After all, it wasn't the IAC. :willy: :) |
Looks like you just created a vacuum leak and possibly gas fumes leaking into the engine bay. The hissing is a leak and now that your IAC is closed trying to drop the idle, you have a steady idle controlled by the size of the leak. :bigears
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You created a vacuum leak increasing your idle speed. If your IAC is working corcetly and the tune is right there is no need to do that. think about it the IAC is a controlled vaccum leak alowing more air into the intake. If it where me I would either fix the problem throght tuning and IAC or do as some others have and dril a couple of small holes in the TB plates.
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Originally Posted by FD2BLK
think about it the IAC is a controlled vaccum leak alowing more air into the intake.
RACE ON!!! |
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
And the air the IAC allows in is FILTERED air.
RACE ON!!! |
Get that car in the hands of someone qualified befor you hurt that motor. You've been driving that thing around in bad tune for quite some time. Did you get the correct MAF yet ?
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man i love those easy fixes.
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I would almost venture to guess that the vacuum line goes up to the Charcoal Cansiter area...
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
And the air the IAC allows in is FILTERED air.
RACE ON!!! |
Originally Posted by kopbet89c4
I sure can adapt a breather if I get a hold of one soon, or just route it to the tube after the MAF sensor.
:crazy: Or Just fix the car corectly and be done with it |
Unbelievable... :skep: :leaving:
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Obviously you've located your problem-the IAC, what do they cost? a few bucks.
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Originally Posted by CMYC4GO
Unbelievable... :skep: :leaving:
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Took it out on a spin/spirited drive. No MAF or O2 codes. Looks good after a couple of datalogging sessions. Cruise, perfect! No funny sounds or weird engine noises. I'm afraid someone reassembled the purge canister wrong or it probably is almost 18 years old already. I'll try and take a short video of the vacuum line plugged to the canister vs it unplugged, leading into a breather instead.
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With or with out pictures, the repair is a HASH job. FIX it! What are you going to do when you run out of baling wire???
RACE ON!!! |
With or with out pictures, the repair is a HASH job. FIX it! What are you going to do when you run out of baling wire???
RACE ON!!! |
Hammer Repair.
With or with out pictures, the repair is a HASH job. FIX it! What are you going to do when you run out of baling wire???
RACE ON!!! |
Originally Posted by kopbet89c4
I'm afraid someone reassembled the purge canister wrong or it probably is almost 18 years old already.
Hint: It's the reason GM designed the charcoal system, and it has nothing to do with emissions reasons. |
That vacuum line is for the charcoal canister, yep. :yesnod:
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Originally Posted by TIMSPEED
Are you sure you know how the charcoal canister system works? I don't think you do, because if you do, you would FIX IT RIGHT, because it you don't you're creating ANOTHER problem, that will rear it's ugly head eventually...Can anyone guess what that other problem is?
Hint: It's the reason GM designed the charcoal system, and it has nothing to do with emissions reasons. |
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