How can I fix my '69 accelerator pedal linkage?
 

The gas pedal on my '69 is flat on the floor, no travel, no gas. It had been going down gradually, then I adjusted my accelerator cable at the carburetor (thinking that was the problem) and the pedal just went flat to the firewall that day.

The '68-'69 accelerator linkage is a 2-piece assembly with a lever that connects to the pedal rod on the right side of the pivot bracket (see pics below). The top of the lever pulls the accelerator cable through the firewall.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...ca/pedal01.jpg

There's a bolt with nut and washers at the base of the lever in a U-bend that somehow holds the two together. The bolt seems to be tight. The pedal rod moves up and back as I lift the pedal with my hands, but the rod just turns in the channel in the lever. There doesn't seem to be contact.

Has anybody fooled with this, have a remedy or any suggestions? I can get a new lever but I'd like to see if I can adjust it.

Thanks in advance,
Taco :cool:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...ca/pedal02.jpg

This is just a guess. Maybe the hole where the rod slides through used to be indexed (flat side)? Now it is "wollered" out do to years of service?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...cellinkage.jpg

:iagree:

take a look at this link

http://www.corvette-paragon.com/cata...F-F69DB8DB7FF0

Sounds like that may be it. When I push and pull the rod with my hand, it feels like it goes into position then slips out. That Paragon kit is what I was talking about buying. I'm going to take mine apart and see if I can tack a catch in there first though.

Thanks all,
Taco :cool:

I had the same problem with my '69 this past summer.......even with a new bracket, it will eventually wear down again. (That's why GM changed to a one piece solid bracket in 1970, I guess). I removed mine, set it in the proper position with its set pin, making sure it was measured OK for full throttle on the carb linkage, and tack welded it. This has basically made it a one-piece rod and I've had no further problems since.

I'm glad you mentioned the set pin. Mine's gone, but the holes are there. I didn't see the holes in the Paragon lever. My mechanic said he'd tack weld the lever for me. I can put a replacement pin in there, but I'm also told this tends to break the plastic pivot bracket. Gotta love those GM engineers. Must have designed our gas pedal during the Summer of Love. --Taco :cool:

Following up on that set pin... just saw another lever assembly with the pin attached. The orientation is different.

The short end of the lever's U-bracket (where it connects to the pedal rod) is on the right side on the other assembly. Apparently my lever has been turned around so the short end is on the left. The set pin holes on mine go past the travel stop on the black plastic pivot bracket.

This is for reader's reference. --Taco :cool:

Looking at your picture, you don't need a set pin......just install the rod in the indexed hole (which usually gets worn, causing the original problem) and tack weld at that point to prevent any rod movement. :thumbs:

Great, that's what I'm getting ready to do. Two questions:

1. Was the assembly mounted under the firewall when you tack welded it, or did you adjust it, take it out, weld it, and put it back in?

2. Where on the assembly did you put the tack weld?

Thanks in advance, Taco :cool:

I have had the other end where the cable attaches bend reducing pedal travel as well. I brazed a reinforcement to stiffen it and have had no problems since with the '69 design in my 145,000 miles - that doesn't count the 80,000 that previous owners drove it.....

I took it out, adjusted it (double check this a couple times to get it right for full throttle), then welded it, and reinstalled it. The weld was tacked where the rod meets the bracket after you slide it in, on the outer side of the bracket.....just a small tack, be careful not to melt the plastic hold down.

Thanks for the post Taco, the same thing just happened to my 69 conv. and mine was like your set up, backwards. I just tacked it up and now it works great, but now I see there is a switch that the accelarator lever hits when floored that is now out of allignment. Looks like the old owner moved it when he put the lever on wrong before. I will move it but do you have it and know what is it for?

Thanks tristan69

Tristan, where is the switch and what does it look like? Taco :cool:

You are looking at the automatic trans kickdown switch.....it is an electric switch activated when you hit full throttle that downshifts the trans into passing gear.

:iagree: Mine's a 4-speed. Doesn't have it. --Taco

Thanks guys, I just traced the wired and the molex was not even connected. I guess the old owner disconnected it as it would have been backwords and on at idle. I will try and hook it up and see what happens. I guess with his engine mods and new HP and torque I never noticed a problem.
Thanks again

I got sick of the issues wit my accelerator pedal in my '68 Race Car and replaced pedal and cable with the Lokar setup... No issues since..

P.S. It's not a bolt on. It involves drilling and minor fabrication skills but it will work great if installed properly..

Thanks for the info, I just tacked it up and added a brace at the same time. I think it is bullet proof now. Now I am looking at a motor swap.

Accelerator Pedal Repair How-to
 

Wasn't 100% sure how you perform this repair from reading the thread so here's a few details to speed you up.

Under the hood: Remove air filter. Begin by loosening the accelerator cable housing holder on the rear of the carb. Slide the clip or unsnap cable from throttle linkage.

Under the dash: Two 7/16" bolts hold the pivot block to the firewall. You'll need a flashlight and a 1/4 or 3/8 drive socket, preferably swivel-head.

A single 7/16" bolt way the hell up there holds the throttle cable stop plate. Remove that then the entire cable assembly can be fed into the cockpit.

Now the hard part. Try and find any machine shop or garage open on a Saturday who can tack weld (TIG or MIG) it for you.

I plan to put a little reinforcer plate behind the pivot block as it was clear the firewall is flexing beneath it.

My pedal only had 10 degrees of slop in it, I MIGHT have been able to just crank down on the bracket some more, but it was already pretty "bent" and I'd rather do the job once. Ten degrees created more than 1/4" difference in cable pull meaning that depending on adjustment I either A) Wasn't getting full 4-barrel opening, or B) Wouldn't go back to full idle if adjusted for "A".

As a previous poster suggested; consider an aftermarket pedal assembly. This thing's General Motors el-cheapo design, doesn't even last 100K miles. BARELY has enough throw.

Disreguard.....wrong thread. (13 yr old thread)