Oil Catch Can Question...
 

I've just bought a nice oil catch can for my 02 Z06, the instruction say for the 1997-2003 LSx engines to splice the can into the hose from the passengers valve cover to the throttle body, but then it also says on the 2002-2003 LS6 Z06's splice can into the hose that goes from the valley pan cover to the front of the intake.

My question in that there is probably vapors coming from both the valve cover to throttle body as well as there is from the valley pan cover to the intake, which hose should I put the oil catch can into?

Route thusly: From your valley pan cover fitting, straight to your catch can. Then from your catch can to your pcv hose which will be connected to the intake manifold as it is now. You will of course have to cut and splice connections as necessary. Very easy.
The hose from front of the valve cover to the throttle body is left alone. (The air flow in that hose goes from the throttle body to the valve cover and provides filtered air to the crankcase.)
HTH,
Robert

I appreciate that Robert, I was about to add the can to the valve cover to TB hose, but figured that I would wait to get a response. :D Thanks, I think that was what the instructions were trying to say, but it wasn't 100% clear to me. I also thought that both were going to the Tb and intake with vapors. Great information, I will go out and finish the job, and be back in a few.

Glad to help. :thumbs:

I get a TON of oil from that pass head -> TB hose, just to let you know, and not a lot in the catch can from the valley cover to the intake.

BUT - I race on autoX slicks regularly and am way over 1g laterally.

I made a few calls to some friends with more info also and found that The head to TB may be the one to put the can in, also. So I have plumbed it into that for the moment. (I took the original GM hose off completly to save in case I wanted it back, it's preformed GM 11/32 hose) and I will leave that set-up for a bit and check it out regularly and see how it goes. Then I might try the valley pan cover to intake one and see how that goes.

Thanks for the input. :thumbs:

This is how I have mine set up, and have approx 1/8" of oil in the can after 1000 miles.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...m/IMG_1954.jpg

So Josh, you think that is the best place to pipe into the can? I see the logic, but am still not 100% certain that one vs the other, which would have more oil collected.

The routing in the pic is correct, you should have the catch-can between the valley / passenger-side PCV hose and the intake manifold (not the hoses on the driver’s side), with one exception..

On the pic above (Elite Engineering catch can) the hose routing is as-described in the installation instructions, BUT, I have the intake manifold hose routed to the top fitting, to take advantage of gravity; not only do the oil droplets / vapors have to travel down the side, but then make a 180 degree turn, go vertical, survive the trip through the metal mesh as well.

Visual inspection of the inside of the can confirms my theory, i.e. there is a stream of oil running right down the side of the can, indicating it never went airborne, but simply ran straight down the sides. It only makes sense to route the hoses this way, gravity is free, why not let it assist. :cheers:

I have the hose set-up the way you mentioned, although I have them on the hose that goes from the valve cover to the thottle body, is this not a good place to have it to catch oil vapors, or is the line from the valley pan cover to the intake a better place to add the can?

There has been comments for both ways posted here. ( I guess a can for each way would be nice, but I do not want to have it look like it is overboard...lol )

As a "primary line of defense", the correct location is in bold. 99.999% of catch-can users have it installed per the pic above. As a secondary measure, you could add another can (some folks have added a large paper fuel filter, just to see what's coming through) to the throttle body / valve cover. :cheers:

I appreciate that Dan, I'll change it tomorrow afternoon, to go with the hose from the valley pan cover to the intake, and reinstall the original hose back to the valve cover to thottle body as well.

:iagree: Good move.. In short, for the vast majority of folks, most of the oil in the intake is entering from the PCV lines; in a road-race / high G-force situation, it's possible for oil to make its way into the throttle body line. For the ultimate set-up, run 2 cans; if you have to choose one, go with the valley cover / intake. Whatever you do, don't cap anything off. :cheers:

I made the same routing as dscribe by Dan with my Elite Engineering catch can, just seemed more logic to me and had already the previous DIY Husky on the same principle, it works for me.

Christian

PS: Thanks to Elite Engineeringf or the very well built catch can....

Sorry - I am a bit new to this. What is an Oil Catch Can and what is its purpose? Why wasn't this sort of thing installed from the factory?

Thanks

MuscleJunkie, The air with oil vapors that goes through the PCV valve hoses from the valley pan cover under the intake to the intake, this allows oil vapors to get into the intake and possibly build up residue in there. The oil catch can has a screen/filter in it and catches some, hopefully most of the oil vapors that go through that hose before going into the intake. The oil catch can then is drained regularily. :thumbs:

Is there someone who sells a "kit" for this? How hard is the installation. What if you take your car to the track "VIR" - is this a recommended MOD?

Thanks

Yes there are a few different vendors on line that sell quality Oil Catch Cans, I just bought mine for $79, I believe most of them come complete as did mine. And you usually get to choose the finish too, most of them are Aluminum, mine is anodized red. And yes those that decide to track their cars do us them a lot, especially road course driving where the oil may get moved around more. I was just looking for the company that I got mine from the other day but I will have to get back with that. The only ones that I found on line a few moments ago were $100-$149, but like I mentioned before I got mine for $79 and it is very nice quality, check back I'll get the name off the paper work that is in the shed. And yes it was an easy installation. I'd recommend this mod, but that's just my two cents too.

here is the 1 mil question. what about forced induction. do you set it up the same way. i understand you need a check valve in one of those lines. where do i get one. if i am set up for f/induction do i already have a check valve. thanks. kvn

Got pics?