c5 LS1 balancer/crank pulley suggestions
 

The car is a 2000 Coupe, 6 speed.

the balancer has managed to separate itself ( i beleive)

If you look down at it from the passenger side, it looks as if it is walking back and forth.

only has 28k miles on it.

I am in the market for an aftermarket balancer since i am going to be spending the money anyway.

I wouldnt mind an underdrive since i will be replacing the belt anyway, but this car is daily driven, so it cannot be anything extreme.

any help is appreciated!

Can't say i really recommend it, because i havn't officially done it yet, but when I install my cam and heads, I'm installing a Fluidampr balancer with 10% underdrive. It's SFI approved and shouldn't come apart like the ones that use rubber. My second choice would have been the ATI dampener with 10% underdrive. It was almost $100 more.

Hammer

We've used Powerbond and ATI, most go with the 25% underdrive; where are you located?

ATI here, very happy with it.

I am in St. Louis, MO.

I will most likely be ordering this from someone anyway, so location doesnt matter much.

25% underdrive isnt too much for a daily driven street car bone stock?

cam is in the future, but probably not for another year.

no problem, there are 1000's of cars out there with those UD's

ASP underdrive here,about a year of good service. If you want to go this route this is what you need:
ASP pulley part#941020
Belts-NAPA part#25-040410 &#25-060775
Balancer bolt I recomend ARP(you cannot reuse the factory bolt)http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...4916_-1_133564
Its a good idea to pin the balancer before bolting it on you can get a fixture for this from A&A or post a WTB thread in the for sale section.
For installing the new pulley a length of 16X2 metric rod with some nuts & washers can save the crank threads from damage.http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=325-6848
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...photos/Rod.jpg
Good luck with the install.

I got the SLP underdrive pulley for around $200.00. You can also go with the liquid filled type they are lighter but they cost more. I am happy with the SLP. It is lighter than the stock pulley and I have heard that you gain 10 hp.

can you explain the pinning?

and how would the threaded rod help? i would assume you mean thread the rod all the way into the crank, and then use the nut and washers to drive the pulley on?

Exactly. A lot of guys try to pull it on with bolts, even longer bolts but this can stress the threads too much and damage them. Simple tool to make will prevent this from happening since it threads in all the way first, thereby engaging all the threads and spreading the load.

http://members.cox.net/vettenuts/balancertool.jpg

There are some pictures in this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...=crank+pinning
If you should use the ARP bolt use ARP's torque spec. not the factory spec. as the ARP bolt is not torque-to-yield.

Have my steering rack almost dropped and waiting on my factory balancer. Do you mean I could have gotten more power? Is underdrive safe with nitrous? Do I need a tune? Can I do it with Pred? Do I just need a balancer and a new belt?

Yes you need a new belt with the SLP 78", and the sides on the UD are taller for better chance that you won't thow a belt. I don't see why you could not use it with nitrous. The thing I notice the most after this upgrade is once you get to 4000 RPM's it gets to the redline much faster.

I ordered the Powerbond balancer from Texas Speed today. i am going to tackle this on sunday, hopefully i dont run into any problems. and yes i have a new crank bolt.

Actually it's not.

SLP 25% UD - 9 lb 10 oz
OEM - 7 lb 12 oz