Why my stereo sounds so bad...
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...ndlikecrap.jpg
Yup... That particular connection is typical of what the previous owner felt was quality wiring. Every time I open something in this car I end up doing a lot of rewiring. At least now my left speaker will sound decent. |
i guess im not following. is that wrong? i use a heavier guage wire, thread it through like that, and the solder it down.
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Originally Posted by another-user
(Post 1558895319)
i guess im not following. is that wrong? i use a heavier guage wire, thread it through like that, and the solder it down.
There's no solid connection - any transfer of electrons is more or less incidental... |
Yea, looks like he just squeezed it together with his fingers... what a shame.
Man, I hope that guy didnt do much work to the car!!! |
Originally Posted by JoeRags
(Post 1558895473)
Yea, looks like he just squeezed it together with his fingers... what a shame.
Man, I hope that guy didnt do much work to the car!!! |
HA! Good luck... I'm sure once your through it all, you'll be happy with the end result. Something about work that you've done yourself thats so very satisfying.
:cheers: |
Originally Posted by JoeRags
(Post 1558895652)
HA! Good luck... I'm sure once your through it all, you'll be happy with the end result. Something about work that you've done yourself thats so very satisfying.
:cheers: |
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Originally Posted by another-user
(Post 1558895319)
i guess im not following. is that wrong? i use a heavier guage wire, thread it through like that, and the solder it down.
|
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
(Post 1558908075)
Solder it? Too permanent for me. Just solder a good spade connector onto the wire. Good connection, easy to remove.
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For stereo installs, I solder all speaker wires. The least bit of oxidation or free movement on a spade connector can really effect the sound. The more power you put through the spade, the quicker they build up corrosion (as they're always disimilar metal from the wire and speaker).
JMHO, YMMV Todd |
Originally Posted by krisak
(Post 1558895606)
Hehe... Naah, he was all over in the car. I had to fix the tach signal wire last night. I'm having to completely replace a big chunk of the wiring under the dash. The upshot is that I'm replacing all of the instrumentation and signal lights with LED versions. It'll either come out really nice, or really ghetto.
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/6525/dsc0310xh7.jpg |
Are those white or blue LEDs? I ordered LED replacements for every gauge light from SuperBrightLEDs but havent put them in yet.
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Originally Posted by bluthundr
(Post 1558914233)
Are those white or blue LEDs? I ordered LED replacements for every gauge light from SuperBrightLEDs but havent put them in yet.
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http://www.superbrightleds.com/
Here's the list I used: Code:
BULB/LOCATION Color GM Part# Common Part# LED Part # Required |
Originally Posted by 72rdstr
(Post 1558912330)
For stereo installs, I solder all speaker wires. The least bit of oxidation or free movement on a spade connector can really effect the sound. The more power you put through the spade, the quicker they build up corrosion (as they're always disimilar metal from the wire and speaker).
JMHO, YMMV Todd |
Originally Posted by MYBAD79
(Post 1558903719)
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
(Post 1558909907)
If you are going to solder the connector, why not just solder the way it is? It's not like your going to change it's oil every month.:thumbs:
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Originally Posted by 72rdstr
(Post 1558912330)
For stereo installs, I solder all speaker wires. The least bit of oxidation or free movement on a spade connector can really effect the sound. The more power you put through the spade, the quicker they build up corrosion (as they're always disimilar metal from the wire and speaker).
JMHO, YMMV Todd |
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