ARP Flywheel Bolts - Who has disassembled after using "Red" Loctite
In the middle of my clutch installation. I bought a set of ARP flywheel bolts. I see a lot of recommendations for "Red" loctite. ARP instructions say to use their Moly lube, but I am afraid to do that since getting back in there again is a big issue if they come loose. The GM service manual seems to indicate medium strenght Loctite 242, but then I see guys who have bought GM bolts and they come with a red locking compound pre-installed.
Has anyone actually removed a flywheel with the ARP bolts in it that have been previously installed with the Red loctite? I am concerned I will never get them out again or that they might break upon later disassembly. |
Originally Posted by vettenuts
(Post 1560311632)
In the middle of my clutch installation. I bought a set of ARP flywheel bolts. I see a lot of recommendations for "Red" loctite. ARP instructions say to use their Moly lube, but I am afraid to do that since getting back in there again is a big issue if they come loose. The GM service manual seems to indicate medium strenght Loctite 242, but then I see guys who have bought GM bolts and they come with a red locking compound pre-installed.
Has anyone actually removed a flywheel with the ARP bolts in it that have been previously installed with the Red loctite? I am concerned I will never get them out again or that they might break upon later disassembly. |
I did talk to ARP, they said increase the torque by 5 lb-ft with loctite over the Moly, so they would go in with 65 lb-ft.
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I think I'd use BLUE locktite and then 5 ft/lbs over what the ARP specs call for w/ ARP lube - w/ Blue locktite, you have some additional security, but you can get them loose if you need to in the future
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FWIW, I've never had an issue taking things apart that I previously used Red lock-tite on
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If you use red loctite, and have an issue with getting bolts back out, heat them with a torch (the bolt--be careful of the head on the surrounding areas).
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If you use red loctite, and have an issue with getting bolts back out, heat them with a torch (the bolt--be careful of the head on the surrounding areas). For anything other than very small bolts I've had to heat the threads with a torch to remove the bolt when red locktite was applied. |
If you can remove Crane rocker studs, which are M8 x 1.25, with relative ease than I think it's safe to say you could remove flywheel bolts. I'm not sure what size they are right off hand, but I would guess they are M10.
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Originally Posted by HiRiser
(Post 1560320724)
FWIW, I've never had an issue taking things apart that I previously used Red lock-tite on
And I just torqued my flywheel to 75 ft/lbs with the ARP hardware. It felt perfect...just enough "stretch" (and not very much because the bolts are short). I dont think 65 ft/lbs is enough although with red loctite it wont go anywhere at that TQ Im sure anyway. Tony |
Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
(Post 1563675538)
Ditto....
And I just torqued my flywheel to 75 ft/lbs with the ARP hardware. It felt perfect...just enough "stretch" (and not very much because the bolts are short). I dont think 65 ft/lbs is enough although with red loctite it wont go anywhere at that TQ Im sure anyway. Tony |
Surprised this post came back to life. Well, mine are in there with red loctite and so far (as far as I know) all is OK.
Now the real question will be whether it will handle the new found power in the spring :leaving: |
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