What are symptoms of a faulty fuel pressure regulator ??
would a stall or 2 just after starting be one of them ???:willy:
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:bigears
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Nice avatar! A stall is likely with a faulty FPR. What is the fuel pressure? Does the pressure drop quickly? Is there fuel in the regulator vac line?
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all good guestions,but im not a mech,next question in how do I get to it ?? BTW the avatar, do you watch 24 ?? Jacks daughter Kim,Elisha Cuthbert.
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Well you will need a fuel pressure gauge. It can be purchased at most autoparts stores for ~$40. It attaches to the schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail (looks like a tire valve). When the key is turned to the "on" position, the ECM commands the fuel pump relay to send battery voltage to the fuel pump through way of the fuse in the passenger side fuse panel. The time the fuel pump will run with the key "on" is 2 sconds and you can usually hear it cut off.
You should see the fuel pressure gauge needle go to around 40 psi and hold for minutes. If the pressure is a lot less or a lot more and you have a stock FPR, suspect a bad spring or faulty diaphram. If the pressure drops, then you have a fuel pressure leak (injectors or injector o-rings, FPR, fuel filter connection, fuel rail connections, tank line connections, fuel pulsator, or check valve...just to name the most obvious). There is a vac line that connects to the FPR. You can pull the line and look for raw fuel in the line. If so, the diaphram is leaking and needs to be replaced. You can also pull the spark plugs and look for raw fuel on the tips. |
Originally Posted by RRT vette
(Post 1560754554)
Well you will need a fuel pressure gauge. It can be purchased at most autoparts stores for ~$40. It attaches to the schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail (looks like a tire valve). When the key is turned to the "on" position, the ECM commands the fuel pump relay to send battery voltage to the fuel pump through way of the fuse in the passenger side fuse panel. The time the fuel pump will run with the key "on" is 2 sconds and you can usually hear it cut off.
You should see the fuel pressure gauge needle go to around 40 psi and hold for minutes. If the pressure is a lot less or a lot more and you have a stock FPR, suspect a bad spring or faulty diaphram. If the pressure drops, then you have a fuel pressure leak (injectors or injector o-rings, FPR, fuel filter connection, fuel rail connections, tank line connections, fuel pulsator, or check valve...just to name the most obvious). There is a vac line that connects to the FPR. You can pull the line and look for raw fuel in the line. If so, the diaphram is leaking and needs to be replaced. You can also pull the spark plugs and look for raw fuel on the tips. |
If it starts and stalls, but immediately starts again and runs, it isn't the regulator. Checking fuel pressure isn't a bad idea, but sounds more like a cold start injector or injectors. Intermittent, unregulated idle is more than likely a dirty throttle body. More info could be gleaned if you scan it. You want to see what the Coolant and Air Temp Signals are - Idle Air Control Motor position (it's given in steps) - Targeted RPM - Actual Rpm - a/c Request - Load Variable. If you can obtain that data, a solution will be easier to come by.
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There are many things that can cause an engine to stall after start up. As for the CSV that SunCr mentioned... I found that if the CSV is not operating correctly, the cold start time will be longer. When my CSV fuse was blown, it would take about 4 turns of the key, when the engine temp was below 95*, for the engine to start. Hot starts were not a problem.
The idle could be due to a dirty throttle body or IAC. You can remove both and clean them with throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush. Using an engine scanner is a great tool to diagnose problems and to make changes to the eproms. Most owner have never used one and don't want to start. There is lots of info to give, just let us know what you want. There are certain steps that need to be taken to rule things out. |
Thanks RRT and SunCr. I have non of those tools and scanners you mentioned,IM one of these 50 yr old mid life guys who just wanted to get another Vette,I have been doing many things myself in restoring my 88 but most of it is cosmetic light body work and my interior. Im a complete novice with the under the hood stuff but IM willing to learn. Im in the process of dismantiling both front headlight motors,I have some money for repairs but I dont want to go broke giving it to a mech to diagnose it if I dont have to. I had my Tranny rebuilt in april so that really set me back..Thanks with any help you can give me.
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Go to Borders and buy Ben Watson's Chevy Fuel Injection. That will give you the basics (and most of it is still applicable to anything that's being built today). Scan tools aren't horribly expensive - or you can buy a cable and use free software. Ask for info in Scan and Tune.
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what was the problem
I am having the same issue
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Originally Posted by UPSWEIRDO
(Post 1593030711)
I am having the same issue
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My 86 corvette would start right up then stall, it did this off and on for a week or two. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it fixed the problem.
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