Snapped off lug bolt from rotor do I need to replace rotor?
 

I was washing my car this morning and to my shock I noticed that one of the lug nuts off the rear passenger side wheel was missing. After closer inspection I could tell that it was sheard off some how. I plan to take the car to the dealer but wanted some insight from the group if the lug bolt itself can be replaced or am I looking at needing a completely new rotor (Z51) and lastly if a new rotor is required would I need to replace both rear rotors? The car only has 8,000 miles on it.

Thanks

Not sure about the C6, but typically you should be able to just remove the rotor then press or tap out the broken stud. The studs are a mild press fit and usually splined. Install a new stud with a press or use a lug nut with washers built up to pull the new stud into place.

I'm sure someone will chime in with info specific to the C6.

Oh and in the future don't gorilla torque the lug nuts.

:iagree:

Lay off the steroids, Barry!

Rotor against bolt...rotor wins
 

Take rotor off, put in vise with undersize socket, tighten vise, reverse with large deep socket over threaded end of bolt, clamp down.....done deal.....:D :cool: :D

I think you guys are missing something important. The studs are not part of the rotor.

The good news is that they are easy to replace.

:iagree:

I would also want to find out why the stud sheared off, most likely over tightened but could be something else too.

I am sure you know never oil the wheel stud threads. The 100 lb-ft lug nut torque spec is with "dry" threads. If one oiled the threads the resulting clamping load (and tension in the studs) increases exponentially with the torque.

Also, ALWAYS use a qualified torque wrench.

Some people also don't know that the longer the "extension" you use, the more you are multiplying the torque.

Once again I am using the :iagree: sign with one of jschindlers posts

Huh? The length of the extension (from the socket to the wrench) has no effect at all on the torque applied to the lugnut.

Now, if you use a longer wrench, you can apply a higher torque with less hand force, but a torque wrench will "click" at the same torque level, no matter how long the wrench handle.

:iagree: :iagree: :iagree:

Correct. It's a warranty problem, and Mr. Goodwrench won't argue about it. :thumbs:

Thanks guys for info I am glad the stud can just be replaced and I will be asking why it snapped off.

You might as well ask them the meaning of life...they won't know the answer, and if they say anything it will be direct from the "nether regions".

Write it off to "defects in materials or workmanship", and be sure that everyone that changes your wheels in the future torques the lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. I can't see it being over-torque...it was most likely just a faulty stud. Stuff happens.:thumbs:

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?

That's what I was taught in school many years ago. I have no way of measuring it, so I'm going by what my auto mechanics teacher taught us.

EDIT- I just did some googling, and it appears my teacher was wrong (or a lot of other people are). Damn, no wonder I went into sales instead of becoming a mechanic :yesnod:

Ah, you were thinking about the hot new chick in school instead of paying attention...he was talking about the length of the wrench handle. :lol:

:iagree: All the cars I ever worked on the wheel studs were pressed into the axle flange, and the rotor simply slid over the studs. April of '06 at the Birthday bash in BG the GM guys took my car to the factory and replaced all four rotos. They never had to mess with the wheel studs. :)

Thanks for jogging my (old) memory. I think you are right, I confused that with the "angle of the dangle, and heat of the meat" theory. That was a long time ago :yesnod:

A radial extension from the socket driver end of the wrench to the nut , such as a crows foot, will increase torque on the nut. Maybe that's what you are remembering your instructor saying?? :cheers: