Axle Nut Info from Assembly Plant
 

I posted this information at the end of an existing thread. It was suggested that I start a new thread so that anyone with the problem can see the corrective action.

I used the Owner Feedback at http://www.bowlinggreenassemblyplant.com/
to ask about the Axle Nut issue.

I received a reply and asked for permission to post the fix on the forums. The information I received is as follows:

If there is presence of the nut "indexing and/or looseness", do the following:

1. Remove existing nut
2. Apply Goodwrench # 12345493 (also known as Loctite 272) on threads in area where nut finally seats
3. Install new nut (p/n 10257766)
4. Torque nut to 190Nm (140 ft-lb), static
5. Allow 24 hours cure time.

Update 9/13/2007

Part Number 12345493. has been superceded by 89021297.

Note that a NEW nut is required and the torque has been increased from 118 ft-lb to 140 ft-lb.

Save The Wave,
John

VERY interesting, thanks for the post/thread! :cheers:

Thanks for the information John. Great information.

Paul :cheers:

Thanks. I'm filling up my note pad with all this great info.

That's great info!

Mine haven't shown loose to date but I may just order a couple of nuts just in case :D

now I have to get it re done at the new torque #'s???Only one side was loose.Should this be all warranty or what??I got charged last time.

Thanks! :cheers:

Yes, very interesting... especially since many of us had speculated that thread locker as well as high torque might not be the best thing for the situation.

Of course, thread locker and high torque would be the most typical cure for any typical situation where a given nut tends to loosen. Hopefully the engineers thought this through for this specific situation and didn't just rattle off the textbook answer for a loose nut.

We learned from the axle chatter issue that responses from GM about curing a problem may or may not be correct... at least not the first time.

I torqued my original nuts to spec (one was loose) and did not use thread locker. My intention was/is to simply check the torque regularly every 5k miles or so (or at every oil change, whatever). I may continue to do this and only take more extensive action if I note one or both nuts starting to loosen again at any point... or until we know for sure that GM's new cure is indeed the most appropriate course of action.

The only bad thing about using thread locker is that once you use it, you can no longer check torque without disturbing the locking bond and/or the bond will not allow you to achieve a true accurate torque reading. Until we know 100% for sure why these nuts lose their torque, I may continue to check torque periodically (which means no thread locker)... because i'm not yet convinced that it's the NUT that's merely backing off, losing torque... the loss of torque may be coming from something wearing, stretching, moving etc with respect to the axle itself... if so, thread locker will not help.

Will give this a little more time to unfold. In the meantime my axle nuts are torqued nice and have been holding torque. :thumbs:

:ack: sorry missed the thread , whats wrong with our nuts ? lol

:iagree:

No counsel what what the intended actual size of the axle nuts are?? Seems to be quite a range .. .

Interesting....so, exactly what "new nuts" are we supposed to obtain? Is there something different about them? Is GM now considering this a warranty repair since they are calling for replacement parts? I'm with Vet on this - let's not do anything until there is a definite solution to the problem. Loctite could very well make the situation worse.

Gene should put together a package with the two nuts and loctite.:thumbs:

Good info!

What's wrong with....?
 

Yes, very interesting... especially since many of us had speculated that thread locker as well as high torque might not be the best thing for the situation.

I'm missing something....what's wrong with thread locker and a higher torque value?

Jesse,

It would be worth going back to your dealer with this new information and the new nut part numbers (and new torque specs) had make them do it under warranty.

Paul

My understanding is that the part number specified is the same part number as the original part. I think that they just want "fresh" parts to be used.

Save The Wave,
John :seeya

I think you're right,Paul!:cheers:
This seems like something that we can do ourselves,also.Does that other line mean we can't drive it for a day?

It could also be that the nut should not loosen unless it is not completely flat. Replacing the nut would lessen the chance of a repeat failure if this is the case.

BTW: mine have never been loose and I don't baby it.

If the nut and the thread isn't designed for the higher torque specification it will do damage to the thread...that's all. Every thread (pitch and diameter) will have a maximum reusable torque that can be applied. Depending upon the percent engagement of the peaks and valleys as well as weather it is a cut thread or a formed thread will all combine to determine the maximum torque that can be safely and repeatably applied

I would say yes. The threadlock requires time to setup when it is not under load. If you drive it while it is still curing it will lessen its effectiveness at holding under load.