Changing Brake Pads HELP!
 

I've done a search to see if anyone has posted steps/pictures of changing brakes pads on C6 Z06, but I Can't find any. Some one please point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance!

I also welcome any comments about the pads I bought Hawks HP Plus.

1. Remove wheels
2. Turn the wheel so the caliper is more accessable
3. With the caliper on, use a flat blade screwdriver between the rotor and the pad to push the caliper piston back into the caliper. Do this for all 6 pads. Go back and do the first ones you did again because they will move out a little while the others are being pushed in.
4. Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts (21mm if I recall)
5. Do not let the caliper hang by the hose
6. Pop out all 6 pads
7. Insert new pads. The 3 sided edge goes in first against the retainer clips, then push down until the notches align with the caliper guide pins
8. Install caliper. Torque to 100 lb-ft
9. Install wheels
10. PUMP BRAKE PEDAL until you have a firm pedal
11. Bed in the brakes. 40-10mph, 40-10mph, 60-10mph, 100-10mph, 100-10mph. Drive for 10 minutes without touching the brakes. This is the ideal way, obviously if you are on the street you will need to change this at your disgretion to remain safe.

....and while you are at it bleed your brakes. My fluid was dark brown at 10,000 miles. The whole process should only take 2 hours with a friend helping.

Page 5-104 of volume 1 of the 2006 GM Corvette Service Manual shows the caliper torque as 125 lbs not 100 lbs.

Thanks guys!!! This forum is great.

I gotta also thank Al Gore for inventing the internet.

:iagree: That's been the spec on the caliper mounting bolts since C5's, maybe earlier. On the other hand, it would be nice if 100 lbs worked since my cheap portable impact wrench could handle that. BTW do you loctite the bolt?

BTW2 you can also use the method in the service manual to change the pads by removing the guide pins rather than the caliper. I've been doing a combo method - taking off the calipers in the front (since that's relatively easy and I switch the rotors with the pads anyway) and removing only the center guide pin on each side of each rear caliper.

I've been using the HP+ pads on the street and limited track. I like them even though they are a little noisy. I think they are a good compromise.

I do not use Loctite on the caliper bolts since it seems I'm either changing the tires or the pads with some frequency and I always check the torque while I'm in there.

I'm doing brakes today for this weekend's HPDE at PIR so I'll try your rear method of removing only the center pad pin bolt. Thanks!

Just verified GM service manual - 129 lb-ft


GM service manual does not say to use loctite. I wouldn't, considering they are being removed a lot.

I use a little touch of Blue 242 just to be safe. I wouldn't use red. Just my .02 However if you are removeing them a lot it's probably not needed. JD:thumbs: :cheers:

Which service manual, Jason? The 2006 one sure says 125 (doesn't matter too much since 4 lbs is well within the error range for my Craftsman torque wrench).

My memory is not clear (on this or on most points), but I kinda think maybe they come from the factory with a skosh of blue loctite on them ? ? Anyone?

Jason this will not hurt the rotor?

No,

You are using the tip of the screwdriver blade against the backing plate of the used pad. Remember, you do not need to be King Kong and pry like an animal. Slight pressure is all that's needs to compress the pistons.


Mike :cheers:

GM dealerworld.

Yes, they have that thick red loctite-like product on them from the factory.

It takes hardly any force to push them in. It won't hurt the rotor.

I see....between the backing plate and the piston....Thanks Short-Throw and Jason

Thats not really what Short-Throw meant. Don't put a screwdriver between the piston and the pad. Do it between the pad and the rotor. Short-Throw meant to push on the tab that is on the backing plate of the pad, but its small and difficult to keep the screwdriver on there, so I put it between the pad and the rotor.

:iagree: Using the tab takes a steady hand and if it slips off you could damage the piston boot. Use the old pad for leverage.

Mike

Got it....Thanks guys

A series of aggressive stops to break in the new pads, followed by a long cool-down period.

Follow up
 

Just as an update. I did it (with buddies help). I had never changed bake pads or bled brakes before and I was extremely surprised on how easy it was. Not many tools are required, but be prepared to get brake dust everywhere! I also took Rangers advice on changing the clutch fluid, again easy. Both clutch and brake fluids were brown. Check your fluids!!!!

I drove the car for less than a mile and the braking difference was very noticeable.

I will bed the brakes before I drive it again, but how hard should I brake when doing this procedure?

Thanks again for the step by step instructions!!!!:cheers: