Installing Arp Rod Bolts And Head Studs "questions"
 

I have decided to install ARP bolts in my engine while I have it torn apart. I have some questions on installing the new ARP Bolts.

Everyone is saying that the ARP connecting rod bolts need to be installed using a bolt stretch gage. So, I have the gage and this process is new to me. What is the correct stretch figure and correct method of obtaining it?


When installing a ARP balancer bolt, what is the new torque value and is there any special method of obtaining it?

When installing ARP Head studs, what is the torque on the studs to the block and then torque for the nuts when installing the heads?

Thanks for any and all help you can give me.

Bill Curlee

I can only help with the head studs.

Running the studs into the block, just snug them up when they hit bottom. No need to torque them any further. ARP instructions say "hand tight only", but in my experience there's no way they would thread in just twisting by hand. I needed the allen wrench to run them down, but it was obvious when they did hit bottom.

Using the ARP moly lube, tq the big nuts to 75-80lbs/ft...(25-30bs/ft on the top row of small nuts if I recall).
Use factory sequence for tightening, and do it in 3 gradual stages. 25, 50, 75 works.

:cheers:

Thanks bud for that great info!:thumbs: Im installing them tonight.:thumbs:

Anyone have install info on the connecting rod bolts or Torque info for the balancer bolt?

Thanks again:flag:

Bill

on the rod blots there should be a "dimple" on each end of the bolt to reference. Check the bolt totally unloaded , then check loaded. I go one rod at a time. Use the first rod as "zero" and reference the rest as a +/- from there. The bolts should have a sheet with a place to write all that, and a spec for how much stretch you want. Don't be suprised if it takes 25-20lbs more torque to stretch them the first time. PM me if you have any more specific questions

ARP revised the stud nut torque to 80 lb-ft for the large, 23-25 lb-ft for the small using their lube.

Damper bolt last I knew was 190 lb-ft with their lube, after following GM sequence.

As for the rods, can you actually get the stretch gage in place? I know a lot of guys use the Katech rod bolts because they are torque based only (no stretch gage).

:iagree: Seems like the way to go.

Katech rod bolts here or at least when Ed gets done with it.

I'm re-installing the top end of the engine now with all my mods and was going to drop the K frame out and start on the rod bolts next.

I will be driving the car to Bowling Green for the Cruise In in May and the more I think about it, the more I'm going to postpone doing the rod bolts. I'm considering ordering the Katech bolts and doing the swap later down the road.

Thanks for all the inputs and advice on that subject!:flag:

Last night I cleaned up the top of the engine and installed the cam and lifters, tonight it will be the heads.

Bill:flag:

I was supposed to be doing mine this week too :(

Don't know for sure about the LS engines, but in older Chevys, if you changed rod bolts, you better check for roundness of the rod after, most professional shops would want to resize the rod after a bolt change because pressing in new bolts can change things a bit, the same thing with using main studs, I found out the hard way on that, the studs on the mains pull differently than the bolts, causing the main to distort some, and a chance of spinning a main if you don't do an aligh hone.

:iagree:

My bro has a 99 FRC and wanted to put in new rod bolts when we do his heads / cam and a bunch of other crap this summer.

The Katech bolts are the preferred method over the ARP rod bolts as the ARP bolts require that you resize the the rod ends and they are also heavier than the Katech and stock rod bolts which could cause a balance problems.

I'm really interested in the results from those that have done the Katech rod bolts without re-machining the rod ends.

BTW, did not mean to hijack your thread Bill, just wanted to make sure you, me or someone else does not regret doing this mod.

The theory is,,,LS series engines have powdered metal connecting rods that are made in ONE piece. The big end of the connecting rod is parted by fracturing breaking the rod. Its suppose to not be sensitive to changing rod bolts but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I'm still skeptical and very open for recommendations and information.:thumbs:

BC

Hi Bill,

I am Tony's (AJG1915) brother.

Don't know if this helps much but here is a thread I started some months ago on the same subject.

Hope it helps some.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=rod+bolts

Tim

Pretty much the same info I got from ARP on the phone.......

11mm head bolts-80 ft/lbs w/ARP lube. 85 ft/lbs w/30w oil.
8mm head bolts--23 ft/lbs w/ARP lube. 29 ft/lbs w/30w oil.

Crank bolt--16mm-196 ft/lbs w/ARP lube

One other post I just found on the subject.

It is a Katech press release on their rod bolts for the LSx motors.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9062569

Tim

Man,,,,,,,,,,,,,,the more I read about this swap, the more I learn! Im eventually going with the KATECH bolts. I guess, Ill just have to limit my right foot until I can up-grade!:leaving: :thumbs:

Thanks for the great link and info.

BC

You probably already know this, but just in case someone reading this doesn't; you only replace one rod bolt at a time. You dont want to disturb the rod cap or bearing.
Also, depending what vendor was supplying the rod bolts at the time, there may be ferrules that will remain in the rod cap, if you unscrew the bolt until it comes all the way out. These ferrules must be removed before installing the Katech bolts. If the ferrule is stuck in the rod cap thread the bolt back in so it is just into the ferrule and not the rod. Gently wiggle and pull the rod bolt, and the ferrule will come out on the bolt. I don't think they used the ferrules in the later years, but there are many cars out there that have them, and you definitely don't want to make the mistake of leaving them in there.

^^Bill,

No problem. I have learned a lot on this forum from people like you and just want to make a small contribution.

My brother sent a PM over on LS1 to Katech about their rod bolts. I am sure he will post something up when he hears from them.

I too would like to rev my motor without it going all over the place.:ack:

Tim

Well, I went to install my head studs and found out that they sent me the WRONG DAMN studs!!!!!!!!!!!!:willy: :willy: :willy: :willy: So,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i had to order them AGAIN!

Thanks for all the info on the KATECH bolts. Thats the route I will be taking when I replace the connecting rod bolts.

Bill

Hi Bill,

The Katech's need no machining or resizing .

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showpo...45&postcount=8