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1980 L-82 Questions...Newbie !!
Hi Guys,
My Name is Arnold and I live in Canada. I have a chance to buy a Corvette for $4000. IS THIS A GOOD DEAL? I was told(and saw) it has 19,766 on the odometer... my question is do I count the last digit(white) or just the black numbers..(well white #'s on black) I know the Owner and he is the second owner. It RUNS also it was only Summer driven, it was originally Brown( it faded ) but it got painted Red (cheap one at that:( )new paint job is needed...it was sitting for a few years (10 yikes) Does anyone have any advice on what i need to do once I get it?? Tune up? also is there anything i need to know about this Year? I checked the VIN it all checks out Year,engine etc.. thx in advance! I'll post pics soon. Arnold |
Originally Posted by sixxgunn13
(Post 1565983898)
Hi Guys,
My Name is Arnold and I live in Canada. I have a chance to buy a Corvette for $4000. IS THIS A GOOD DEAL? I was told(and saw) it has 19,766 on the odometer... my question is do I count the last digit(white) or just the black numbers..(well white #'s on black) I know the Owner and he is the second owner. It RUNS also it was only Summer driven, it was originally Brown( it faded ) but it got painted Red (cheap one at that:( )new paint job is needed...it was sitting for a few years (10 yikes) Does anyone have any advice on what i need to do once I get it?? Tune up? also is there anything i need to know about this Year? I checked the VIN it all checks out Year,engine etc.. thx in advance! I'll post pics soon. Arnold In order for TWO paint jobs to have faded, it must have been sitting outside and exposed to the elements. So we're basically expected to believe that the car was "only summer driven" which explains the "low mileage", but was stored outside the rest of the time? I can't imagine what the frame and bird cage would look like. Just based on what you said without seeing the pics, I would say pass. A "great" condition 1980 L-82 can be had for around $12,000 or so, one that needs nothing, can be driven across the country, and still has less than 100k miles on it. This one sounds questionable to me. Now I'm normally NOT one to advocate going into debt for a car, but if you only have $4,000 available you may want to consider financing a car that doesn't need work - If you found a $12k car, put your $4k down and financed the remaining $8k, your payment would be around $200 a month or so ... that's a lot less than you'll spend fixing up a $4k car. Trust me, you will spend much more than $200 a month turning a $4,000 car into a $12,000 car. I know this because MY first Corvette, an 81, was $4,400 and I thought I was getting a deal too. About $17,000 later it was finally the way I wanted it. I still have the car and still couldn't sell it for what I have in it. This is why my 2nd C3 was purchased fully restored by the previous owner, and my third - coincidentally a 1980 L-82 I'm building as a track car - was bought in "needs nothing" condition. The truth is, the most expensive vette you can find is the one that's really the "good deal" - because the less expensive ones need work that will cost more than what you'll pay for the more expensive ones. |
Originally Posted by Ron R
(Post 1565984380)
The truth is, the most expensive vette you can find is the one that's really the "good deal" - because the less expensive ones need work that will cost more than what you'll pay for the more expensive ones.
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Let's see some pictures... Perhaps it's in OK condition. We know it needs paint, but what does the interior look like? Can you do some of the work yourself, or do you have to pay somebody? Is the car drivable in it's current condition?
If you are looking for a project, it might be a good starting point, assuming there is no rust and everything is there. If you are looking for something to make money on, then look for another way to invest your money. If you do get, fix the safety items first... Brakes, Tires, Front and rear suspension, etc. Then go for the drivablilty items, engine, transmission. Then go for cosmetics, paint and interier. Good luck... and if you have further questions, this is the place to ask them. |
Get some pictures up.. take some of the under side of the car and also the rear wheel wells, where body mount #4 is located.
interior pictures also....:cheers: |
no really!!
Hi guys thx for the info,
I know it is really hard to beleve it is only has 19,766 on it... Well here is the story.. My moms boyfriend...now common law husband. was married before, he bought the Vette from a friend who couldn't keep it. he never drove it other than the summer cause our winters are like frozen hell..lol well they got divorced and his ex kept it..:thumbs: but she didn't want to sell it thinking he'd come back...forward to now. She doesn't know anything about cars. So its been on blocks, covered with a tarp and run once in a while from their friend who lives in the suit below. Their friend just built a makeshift shelter for it last year...:smash: I've always liked this Vette, and now I have the chance to buy it. as for the interior its sound some wear n tear but not bad at all. Car runs, head light work(up n down). and YES it will be safetied then brought in for a tune up. And the only reason I'm getting a great deal for it is cause my "Dad" plus his Ex really dosen't care for it. :cheers: I hope that clears the air about the too good to be true price!! plus my Wife wouldn't let me waste money this way. I'll try to go back and take pics and post this weekend AND If the bird cage is rusted bad i won't buy it.. |
The truth is, the most expensive vette you can find is the one that's really the "good deal" - because the less expensive ones need work that will cost more than what you'll pay for the more expensive ones.
:iagree: :iagree: I take the above advice to be completely true, and is some of the best advice I've seen given. Also, the storage method mentioned is a invitation to rust, so, before you plunk your hard earned money down, not knowing what you starting, i posted the gen info I have saved to this common question below, along with some pictures of a *Good* California, albeit- northern, cars birdcage (mine). Yes, this is a pic of a good birdcage, so it would behoove you to closely inspect the cage, and frame, of the perspective auto, or you will just have thrown 4 large down the drain-. C. No question, before you put your hard earned money down, pull the kicks, just one screw in back, up near the firewall wall, and the sill covers, first 3 screws ought to do it, and check the lower birdcage to body mounts, second there are little covers in the front of the rear wheel wells, 6 -1/4in bolts, pull these and check the rear cage mounts. The other two, called #1 and #4 you can see from underneath the car, there open to the air. Don't let a little surface rust scare you off of these, the main thing is that their not pitted or seriously rusted, No holes! I've included pics off mine,, these are "OK", but no worse would be acceptable. Check for the level of the rust, if it's present, with a sharp tool. If that checks out, and you like the car and price, It Needs to go on a lift to check the frame for ters and/or rust, same thing applies, a little surface is OK , but no pitting. Pay attention to around the front suspension areas and to the take off areas for the rear kick-ups, the front for ters and the rear for rust. The windshield surround can be fixed for about $3k, so it's not that bad if it's rusty. Look at the w/s surround from the top of the shield through the glass, and look inside, behind the mirror, at the line across the top of the windshield, inside. Serious Birdcage rust is a death knel for everything but a high value (+35k) Vette, looking upwards of $10k for that, and I do mean upwards. put a camera in the front kick panel holes and take a picture up into the cage rails, you can see the condition rails. cage, frame and w/s suround inspection is a must for any C3 buy, and if he won't let you do it, I'd walk away from it. Front: http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...BodyMount1.jpg Up into the front rails: http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...BodyMount5.jpg Rear: http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...BodyMount7.jpg Good luck! :thumbs: |
Please fill out your profile so people on the forum know where you are located. You may get lucky, and somebody from this forum that is local can help you look at the car.
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I would say it's at about 119,000 Km. just by looking at the grunge this car may not be what you're looking for.
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There is no way this is a 20,000 KM car ... (20,000 KM = about 12,400 miles).
I can see at least $3k worth of work just from the pics here, plus you want to repaint it... you're already at about $12,000. If you're looking for a restoration project this might be a good one if the bird cage isn't rusted out, but judging from the rest of the pics and the shape of the exhaust I wouldn't get my hopes up. I think this one is going to be a money pit. |
Not too bad.... Just remember C3 parts are not that cheap, so you will be spending some money on getting this car running well and looking good.
You could save up a few more bucks and get a car that is in better shape... Either way.. You pay up front or in the end... |
Originally Posted by Ron R
(Post 1566011888)
There is no way this is a 20,000 KM car ... (20,000 KM = about 12,400 miles).
I can see at least $3k worth of work just from the pics here, plus you want to repaint it... you're already at about $12,000. If you're looking for a restoration project this might be a good one if the bird cage isn't rusted out, but judging from the rest of the pics and the shape of the exhaust I wouldn't get my hopes up. I think this one is going to be a money pit. still looks like a decent 4k buy |
Originally Posted by sixxgunn13
(Post 1566010396)
:) |
Vin # 1Z876AS420317
WOW, a lot of disbelief on the milage... but sorry its true.:banghead: I know the owner and the type of person he is... he's not the type to drive it all day long when he had it, I'll add more Miles on it... cause thats the type of driver I am..:D and as far as the side fender flags, that was added...:thumbs: Anywho i decided to BUY it, pics look worse than it is. And I do want to paint it...but i'll start on the Major parts BEFORE paint! thanks for the help guys.. Just curious what would some of you think would be a good price for it? |
I don't see where you checked the hidden birdcage mounts. the kick panels are on the side, where your feet go. pass side, to the right. And the rears, little plate on the front side of the rear wheel wells, 4 screws hold them in. that and the frame on a lift are the most important checks when buying a new 'Vette. Not checking these would be foolish, but you wouldn't be the first to buy a 'Vette with these sight unseen. I would say tell the owner to give you $3000 and the car, if you don't check these first.
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thx Runningman... I'll check it later this week!
Would you or anyone have a illustration of where I have to check, I use to own a jeep and ther is not much to it. but a Vette is another beast in itself, does anyone have a Chilton guide? thx |
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Originally Posted by mdbelanger
(Post 1566018920)
:D :lolg: |
$0 only cause I don't know you from squat and you seem dishonest PLUS i haven't checked your BC rust as well!
lol Why is there so much doubt about milage, there are cars that just don't get driven and this is one of them. his Ex wife is in her 50+ and can't really drive well and feels more comfortable taking a bus. Advice is great but I have to go with my gut as far as honesty from the former owner... He is my moms husband. I'll check the Hidden BC mounts though! thx again! |
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