Tools needed in those tight places to properly torque bolts??
 

I hope someone can enlighten me on the tools needed to ensure the proper torque spec's...

1. When you do an oil change, the drain plug spec is 18 lb-ft. Yet, because the drain plug is angled, you can't even fit a regular sized socket tool. So how are you supposed to fit a socket on a torque wratchet which is bigger? In other words, what is the proper tool I need that will properly torque the drain plug?

2. As in question #1, if I want to tighten the caliper bolts and the caliper bracket bolts (110 lb-ft), there is not nearly enough room in the wheel well for the large half-inch drive torque wratchet. What tool do I use that can fit in the wheel well so I can properly torque the bolts?

Thanks.

I am expecting to hear "air tools" while thats great its not practical for everyone...so I am interested too.

or..

http://www.torqstik.com/

In 35 years of wrenching I have never used a torque wrench on a oil drain plug or caliper bolts. You just do it by feel...

:iagree: but you have to remember, there are guys on the forum that can't change a headlight bulb without asking how to do it. For those with less expertise, and a "feel" for fastener tightness, a torque wrench keeps them from screwing things up.

:lol: Don't ever use air tools to tighten an oil drain plug bolt.

true...


because screwing it up by "guessing" always sucks and costs more to fix.

ya think? :lol:

personally I have never found it that hard to get to on my C5 or my C6 so I am not sure what the OP meant in that case..unless he was speaking strictly about a socket in which case I agree but I always just use a wrench for that and tighten accordingly.

my air tools comment was more directed toward the caliper retaining bolts etc.

Ya gotta be specific bro, there is always some guy who will try it...

Yes... I am talking about the little amount of space between the drain plug and oil pan because the drain plug is angled and you cannot fit a torque wratchet in there. I was wondering if there is some special torque wrench that fits, perhaps?

If you insist on using a torque wrench, you can attach a crow's foot. Since the torque is no longer inline with the axis of rotation on the torque wrench, you need to calculate the proper torque.

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm

and hopefully they will post about it here :lol:

an interchangeable head may be what you want


http://www.cditorque.com/tw_preset_interchangeable.html

1. I usually just snug the oil pan plug tight with my hand around a box end wrench as close to the end with the plug as possible. It keeps me from putting too much torque on the plug.

2. The caliper bracket bolts are hard to do unless you can get the car high enough. The front ones are easier since you can turn the steering so you can get the wrench in place. If you can get the car high enough in the rear you can insert the torque wrench in from the bottom and there is enough room to be able to torque the upper bolt and plenty of room for the bottom bolt.

I don't worry about the caliper guide pin bolts. I use a 3/8 inch air ratchet that has a 50 ft lb capacity and let it tighten them. That is about double the torque required but I haven't had a problem in 11 years and I take those bolts out and re-use them many times during track season as I switch from street pads to race pads and back again for each HPDE. The bracket bolts get loosened and re-used at about a third of the rate of the guide pin bolts as I change rotors every third event. Been doing this on C5s for 11 years.

Bill

Quote:

"2. The caliper bracket bolts are hard to do unless you can get the car high enough. The front ones are easier since you can turn the steering so you can get the wrench in place. If you can get the car high enough in the rear you can insert the torque wrench in from the bottom and there is enough room to be able to torque the upper bolt and plenty of room for the bottom bolt."

:iagree:That's exactly what I did! Turn the wheel for the fronts and get under the car for the rears.

My torque wrench lets me get to the caliper guide bolts, but I cannot get my car up high enough to torque the actual bracket bolts. I just tighten brackets up until all my body weight is off the floor. Never have torqued oil pan plug.

:iagree:

In 45 years of wrenching, and hundreds of oil changes,
I never had any issues with drain plugs or caliper bolts, torqued by feel.

and I will agree....BUT...that being said if someone wants to do it by the book then :cheers: I think my link provided some options...but lift makes everything easier :lol:

I would not worry about torquing a drain plug. It has a rubber gasket and anything reasonably tight will keep it from backing out.
As a guideline, 18 ft-lbs is about all you can pull if you use a 6 inch wrench, and I usually just tighten it until it feels solid.

You can get a feel for 100 ft-lbs when you tighten your lug nuts. It is difficult to pull 100 ft-lbs with a 12 inch ratchet, but easier to judge with an 18 inch extension. Tighten the mounting bracket as tight as you can with a 12 inch ratchet and use locktite, and you should not have any problems.

If you want to use a torque wrench on the brakes, try lifting the car with the wheels off so that you can find a position to get to the bolt with the torque wrench handle in the downward position. You should be able to work it in there.

Hey a little respect for u numnuts there fella....:eek::crazy::cheers: