Slight backfire when taking off.
I have a slight backfire most times when starting off and after say slowing down and turning into a parking lot etc. into 2nd on the low RPM range, just a couple of pops and it is just on the right bank and is in the exhaust. Just finished rebuilding my 355 with a Summit top end kit with Trick Flow Heads. It's rated at 420HP with flat tappet cam hydraulic lifters I had a 670 Holley Street Avenger (backfired then too)carb I had before and that wasn't enough so went with a 750 Holley DP same results. MSD mechanical advance and we have change curve for the best performance and adjusted the advance and nothing makes a difference. Jetting down to 68 and 78 from original 71 and 80 and have went back to 72 and 78 primary and secondary jetting, nice light brown plug readings. Compression tested all cyl. 180-200. Car pulls great 4.11, 4 speed and easily spins the rears going into 3rd, good power just cannot solve the obvious build-up causing the backfire in the exhaust. Advance seems to make a slight difference on the back fire but not much. It holds great manifold pressure at idle 800rpm=12-13lbs so 6.5 power valve seems to be correct. I have a Torquer 2 Edlebrock open plume intake with ram heads and new 2 1/2 exhaust front to rear that were put on and ran before the rebuild (no back fire) Any ideas guys would be appreciated greatly..!! THANKS
SEE last post by me today 2-27-09 |
Originally Posted by obx2323
(Post 1568840286)
I have a slight backfire most times when starting off and after say slowing down and turning into a parking lot etc. into 2nd on the low RPM range, just a couple of pops and it is just on the right bank and is in the exhaust. Just finished rebuilding my 355 with a Summit top end kit with Trick Flow Heads. It's rated at 420HP with flat tappet cam hydraulic lifters I had a 670 Holley Street Avenger (backfired then too)carb I had before and that wasn't enough so went with a 750 Holley DP same results. MSD mechanical advance and we have change curve for the best performance and adjusted the advance and nothing makes a difference. Jetting down to 68 and 78 from original 70 and 80 and have went back to 72 and 78 primary and secondary jetting. Compression tested all cyl. 180-200. Car pulls great 4.11 4 speed and easily spins the rears going into 3rd, good power just cannot solve the obvious build-up causing the backfire in the exhaust. Advance seems to make a slight difference on the back fire but not much. It holds great manifold pressure at idle 800rpm=12-13lbs. I have a Torquer 2 Edlebrock open plume intake with ram heads and new 2 1/2 exhaust front to rear that were put on and ran before the rebuild. Any ideas guys would be appreciated greatly..!! THANKS
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Originally Posted by obx2323
(Post 1568840438)
No it's pretty consistent when putting the motor under a slight load initially, starting off and around town, 25 mph. I know it seems like a leaky exhaust valve but I hate to pull the head back off before exhausting all other venues. I will add this set-up seems to be very touchy on advance, jetting to get the power we finally got. The end set-up for timing was done with vacuum gauge reading. My builder has 30 years experience and has not given up just trying to look outside of the box for him. I am going to see just how hot a plug Summit will suggest, I have Autolite 3924 per their suggestion initially. I'm at sea level also.
If you are really, really sure about the compression numbers than I would move on. I think you said right bank. I would definetly run that again. Is the misfire enough to feel performance loss or is it so slight that it can't be felt, only heard? One of those annoying things that will bug you to death unless it is corrected. |
Originally Posted by obx2323
(Post 1568840602)
No performance loss or jerking felt through the drive train just that annoying pop and it is definitely on the right bank cylinders. It is just like any good 16 yr old red-neck would do with the family station wagon, turn it off driving and the crank it up to hear the explsion when you start it, just no where near that loud. A woman is ALWAYS right even when they are obviously wrong. Guess that's why I'm single, LOL.
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Is it possible the pickup wires running from the 6AL to the dist are to close to another electrical source? If so they can pick up extraneous interference. I purchased the shielded mag cable just for this reason. Is the engine running lean?
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Problem could be the Torker and it's 2500-6500 RPM band. Was this intake used on previous engine? Might want to consider a dual plane.
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Are using a vac adv dist? If so, are both ends of vac hose a nice tight fit, no vac loss?
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Originally Posted by obx2323
(Post 1568840885)
I am getting a slight variance in the plug readings when changing the advance. The center plugs are running a little lighter of course. Would a lean condition cause this?? I'll go back up on the mains to 80. Box is mounted on the inside back of driver's side fender well and was before rebuild and ran fine with no probs.
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popping or afterfiring through the exhaust on deceleration usually means you are running too lean.
backfiring up thru the carb on take-off also usually means you are too lean. not sure about how you would only get the popping or afterfiring thru only one side of the exhaust though unless maybe an exhaust leak on that side but I had an exhaust leak on my '78 and you could hear it all the time as a ticking sound, it didn't produce afterfiring on decleleration. |
Another thought for you and easy to check. Part throttle acceleration creates some high cylinder pressures with lean mixtures so the ignition system is really stressed. Assuming new plug wires I would take a quick peek inside your distributor cap. Look for a very fine line (carbon track) running from one of the terminals to the base. Use a bright light. Electricity is always looking for the easiest path to ground or another cylinder. Another item to try is the accelerator pump cam. There are several different profiles you can use. One may give you just the right shot of gas that you need if your problem is a lean misfire. Working the bugs out of a new combo can be frustrating. Good Luck
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Originally Posted by BarryK
(Post 1568842588)
popping or afterfiring through the exhaust on deceleration usually means you are running too lean.
backfiring up thru the carb on take-off also usually means you are too lean. not sure about how you would only get the popping or afterfiring thru only one side of the exhaust though unless maybe an exhaust leak on that side but I had an exhaust leak on my '78 and you could hear it all the time as a ticking sound, it didn't produce afterfiring on decleleration. |
Originally Posted by Old Blazer
(Post 1568847643)
Another thought for you and easy to check. Part throttle acceleration creates some high cylinder pressures with lean mixtures so the ignition system is really stressed. Assuming new plug wires I would take a quick peek inside your distributor cap. Look for a very fine line (carbon track) running from one of the terminals to the base. Use a bright light. Electricity is always looking for the easiest path to ground or another cylinder. Another item to try is the accelerator pump cam. There are several different profiles you can use. One may give you just the right shot of gas that you need if your problem is a lean misfire. Working the bugs out of a new combo can be frustrating. Good Luck
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Maybe a shot in the dark, but have you checked the exhaust heat riser valve under the right exhaust manifold? Could it be sticking closed or not opening fully causing backpressure? Good luck. :thumbs:
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Originally Posted by Coves4me
(Post 1568853245)
Maybe a shot in the dark, but have you checked the exhaust heat riser valve under the right exhaust manifold? Could it be sticking closed or not opening fully causing backpressure? Good luck. :thumbs:
Thanks..!! |
Originally Posted by midyearvette
(Post 1568841588)
i have chased these pesky problems before and after exhausting all the usual possibilites, timing, plug wires, compression checks, vacuum gauge readings etc. the issue is usually a "lean" pop at off idle. it could be fuel contamination by a very slight coolant leak in one or two cylinders caused by a head gasket. this problem is hard to detect without actually tearing the mill down. if by richening the carb , the issue goes away or improves slightly, then this could be the problem. the leak could be too slight at first to detect but im assuming you have done all the standard checks on your engine. if it were a big leak then it would be easy to detect, water out the exhaust etc. but it could be slight enough that the coolant level would not seem low until after driving for quite awhile. if it is an intake leak (vacuum) im sure you know how to check it with propane.......i have been here before and know your frustration, i hope im wrong in my diagnosis and you find something simple, any water puking out the overflow on a cold start up? any moisture out the exhaust? like i say sometimes you can try to find this with a pressure check of the cooling system but if it is a small coolant leak at the gasket to block area it is hard to show up, especially on a fresh build mill. a company called p&g makes a tool called block check that turns fluid different colors when used, you might want to find a rad shop that has one.....good luck
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Originally Posted by obx2323
(Post 1568853420)
This is a high quality concern that anybody I know would pay to have. "65 Roadster with a slight backfire. No sarcasm intended but I REALLY have to remind myself that, as patience isn't one of my stronger vertues, LOL. Thanks
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Hmmmm....
Backfires (slight..couple of pops) only on the right bank/exhaust Does it with both carbs, so it's very unlikely to be the carb, IMO Happens when just starting off, and when downshifting to 2nd to slow down at lower rpm's. You probably blip the throttle when downshifting, and with 4:11 rear gears the rpm's would climb up just as the throttle plates are fully closing. One situation is just as the accelerator pump is enriching the fuel mixture, and the other is just after revving the engine and letting off the throttle under compression braking load. Open plenum manifold, which lets all the fuel charge go to whichever cylinder is drawing the charge. Single plane manifold, which makes me assume the engine is intended for higher rpm usage, and also assume that the cam has some significant degree of overlap, especially since it's a flat tappet, and produces 12-13" of vacuum at 800 rpm idle. A 670cfm carb wasn't enough, presuming it went "flat" at higher rpm ranges, which the 750 DP solved..you also richened up the primary jets one size, and leaned out the secondary jets two sizes. Cranking compression is right up there, which would indicate a pretty stout cylinder pressure, especially in light of a cam intended for high rpm use. I'm kind of surprised by that number, I would think the intake valve would close late enough to bleed off some cylinder pressure at low rpm's, but then again, you didn't state your static CR, and also don't know if you degreed the cam or not, or intentionally or inadvertently may have retarded the valve timing to favor the top end. If you've ever driven an earlier car with an A.I.R. system, and the diverter valve was defective, you get one hell of an exhaust backfire when you keep pumping air into the exhaust system as you let off the gas. You didn't indicate that the car starves for fuel while running steady at higher rpm's, so that leads me to believe that the float level isn't the problem. The "popping' occurs under conditions where you have just richened the mixture, at rpm's where a cam with more than stock overlap will tend to let incoming charge follow the exhaust charge out the door, and fed by a manifold that promotes max fuel enrichment to every cylinder. Since it isn't happening on the left bank as well, I think you have a very slight leak in your cast iron manifold to aluminum head seal, or at the manifold to pipe gasket, since a cast iron manifold tends to hold heat very well, and the introduction of a little more air under transient exhaust flow velocities to a rich exhaust charge would seem to be a possible cause of your problem. So, I would suggest that you recheck the torque of your exhaust manifold to head bolts ( I'm assuming you used exhaust gaskets, didn't you? ) , and the gasket flange to exhaust pipe. If those are tight, you might want to check the exhaust manifold to cylinder head flange for excessive warpage. Anyway, that's my shot at your problem, perhaps it will help you track things down. If it doesn't, then I can honestly say that it wasn't for lack of typing. :) David |
Originally Posted by midyear1
(Post 1568856020)
Hmmmm....
Backfires (slight..couple of pops) only on the right bank/exhaust Does it with both carbs, so it's very unlikely to be the carb, IMO Happens when just starting off, and when downshifting to 2nd to slow down at lower rpm's. You probably blip the throttle when downshifting, and with 4:11 rear gears the rpm's would climb up just as the throttle plates are fully closing. One situation is just as the accelerator pump is enriching the fuel mixture, and the other is just after revving the engine and letting off the throttle under compression braking load. Open plenum manifold, which lets all the fuel charge go to whichever cylinder is drawing the charge. Single plane manifold, which makes me assume the engine is intended for higher rpm usage, and also assume that the cam has some significant degree of overlap, especially since it's a flat tappet, and produces 12-13" of vacuum at 800 rpm idle. A 670cfm carb wasn't enough, presuming it went "flat" at higher rpm ranges, which the 750 DP solved..you also richened up the primary jets one size, and leaned out the secondary jets two sizes. Cranking compression is right up there, which would indicate a pretty stout cylinder pressure, especially in light of a cam intended for high rpm use. I'm kind of surprised by that number, I would think the intake valve would close late enough to bleed off some cylinder pressure at low rpm's, but then again, you didn't state your static CR, and also don't know if you degreed the cam or not, or intentionally or inadvertently may have retarded the valve timing to favor the top end. If you've ever driven an earlier car with an A.I.R. system, and the diverter valve was defective, you get one hell of an exhaust backfire when you keep pumping air into the exhaust system as you let off the gas. You didn't indicate that the car starves for fuel while running steady at higher rpm's, so that leads me to believe that the float level isn't the problem. The "popping' occurs under conditions where you have just richened the mixture, at rpm's where a cam with more than stock overlap will tend to let incoming charge follow the exhaust charge out the door, and fed by a manifold that promotes max fuel enrichment to every cylinder. Since it isn't happening on the left bank as well, I think you have a very slight leak in your cast iron manifold to aluminum head seal, or at the manifold to pipe gasket, since a cast iron manifold tends to hold heat very well, and the introduction of a little more air under transient exhaust flow velocities to a rich exhaust charge would seem to be a possible cause of your problem. So, I would suggest that you recheck the torque of your exhaust manifold to head bolts ( I'm assuming you used exhaust gaskets, didn't you? ) , and the gasket flange to exhaust pipe. If those are tight, you might want to check the exhaust manifold to cylinder head flange for excessive warpage. Anyway, that's my shot at your problem, perhaps it will help you track things down. If it doesn't, then I can honestly say that it wasn't for lack of typing. :) David Fred |
If I read your posting correctly--You got the back fire AFTER the rebuild. If that's correct then it seems to me that you should recheck the valve lash. I know-how that you screw up adjusting hydraulics?:withstupid:
It happens! :willy: Good luck. |
Originally Posted by obx2323
(Post 1568875591)
Well we got the frequency of the backfiring down by raising the float levels (per Summit tech suggestion) richening it up via squirters and going back to a 80 main but it still has a pop. Plugs look nice light brown, so I am pretty sure the lean condition isn't part of it now but was making it worse. I was looking at the joints on the right side exhaust system and checking the torque. Only 1 spacer nut that is brass was even slighly less than tight BUT I did notice at the slip joint at the 1st hanger and where it joins right at the tunnels holes that I have just a trace of exhaust blow out, just enough to leave a mark on my finger but it's probably sucking air in there, could that be an Ignition Source to cause the backfire/popping that far back in the system?? I'm gonna try slipping them together a little more and see if I can get a band type lap joint clamp on it from Summit instead of the old U-bolt style on it now.
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