Excellent! Very informative and great advice! I've been following this procedure ever since Ranger explained this situation quiet awhile ago.... Thanks again!! :thumbs::thumbs:

Terrific video!

Now if only someone could make a video on paddle shifter maintenance for us A6 owners... :lol:

Ranger,

Good to hear from you and appreciate your efforts. I have been using this procedure ever since you first posted and have had no problems for over three years. Few would investigate the root cause as you have and then so unselfishly share the results for all to see. Great job and thanks again.:thumbs::cheers:

Thanks much. I'm off to Wally World to pick one up. Great job on the video by the way. There's not a time that I log on and don't come away smarter. :cheers:

Appreciate the testimonials to the protocol and the all generous words sent my way.:flag:

Hi Marina Blue.

I tried to stay on the case until the root cause was identified. We were fortunate the the lab director at Unovis, a C6Z owner BTW, took a personal interest in the issue. Once the electron microscope was brought to bear, iron and copper in their elemental forms turned up in clutch fluid that had just a few miles of very aggressive launch and shift driving. Analysis matched them exactly to the samples of dust from the same vehicle's clutch disc. A second sample from a different car produced identical results. Mystery solved.

We can hope that GM will over time do some redesign work on the clutch hydraulics to reduce or eliminate the infusion of clutch dust into the fluid. But given GM's financial situation, we may be waiting a while. In the meantime, we have a preventative protocol that works and it's not much bother.

Best regards,

Ranger

Thanks Ranger.. I've been doing this ever since I saw your post a long time back... Great video... Appreciate the effort... :thumbs:

Thanks again Ranger, did mine yesterday as it continues to sit in the garage for winter:ack: It took me longer to run and get the GM Clutch fluid than it did to fill and flush the reservoir three times. Fluid was pretty dark and low at first, now nice and clear.

I just watched the video again (can't get the sound to work, but that's probably my problem) and I notice that you are also a role model for safety by not futzing with the Nav while driving!

Anyway, one more time, thanks, and as posted above, special thanks for sharing so freely and unselfishly. Amazing what results from passion.

Any recommendations on which fluid to buy ? (prefer something available at Wally World or local auto parts).

Prestone DOT4, shown in the video at 3:22, is available at most Walmart stores for about $2.60 per 12 ounce cans. If your clutch fluid is very dark, buy two cans. Otherwise one will do. I've used that fluid interchangeably with the GM-brand. No issues with mixing them.

Ranger

p.s. I have a question:

I do not doubt Ranger's theory because the consensus seems to be unanimous. But I am curious - I assume the hydraulic clutch circuit is a sealed system with a piston actuating components on the south end - all sealed.

How does clutch dust get into the fluid ?

Thanks Ranger :cheers: Next time I'll RTFM :lol:

I was planning on watching that video tonight while "kicking back" with a cold one. I'm on my way to Wally's now for other stuff and will pick up the components.

edit: holy sh!t !! I just looked at mine

bought the car new and it only has 4800 miles

:eek:

I'll be buying TWO cans ........

You must be in the population of vette owners that run theirs at the limit more often than they should. :D :cheers:

Mine was just as bad just as early.

Think of it this way. Let's say you have a pet door on the deck. It's for the cat. The cat passes comfortably thru that door.

You have a collie too. But it can't get through that door.

Not trying to over-simplify, just make the core issue understandable.

A seal on a moving part such as the main shaft in the actuator can have the effect of squeegeeing in small particles of clutch dust, while not permitting passage outward of the larger and more complex molecules of the clutch fluid.

Once in the fluid the particles migrate with the normal flow. They tend to precipitate out when not agitated. It seems clear the dust particles are causing nicks, abrasions, wear points on the seals, leading to failure over time.

Ranger

:D: :cheers:

While I don't abuse my baby, I do believe in "letting the horses run free (and often)"

Thanks Ranger. That does make sense. Dust gets on the shaft and the seals wipe the shaft.

Thank-you RANGER.

It's always nice obtaining information like this and appreciate the amount of work that went into your instructional video.

Nice to see you back and hope all is well.

Red Cell.:cool:

Most excellent, Ranger! Thanks for sharing! Don't be a stranger, Ranger!:cheers:

I have mastered the "Ranger" art of clutch fluid maintenance, now it's time to master his gear change technique.
Excellent article, very well made video, I have downloaded the HD version from Youtube.

THANKS !!

Great video
 

Dear Ranger,

I used your method two years ago and it worked great. I commented at the time, that based on the volume of the resovoir it would take three cans of new fluid to get the majority of old fluid replaced with new fluid by gradual mixing. You commented that this was about right. I used all three cans over a couple of weeks and the fluid has stayed clear for two years.

Thanks,

Rich

Thank you Roger for this very informative post w/video!

07' MN6 coupe with 23K on the ticker. Last week, while having my oil changed, I had my cluth fluid checked. It was completely black! They poured in new fluid. Just today, I checked on it again, and it's already solid black. I do NOT shift or drive aggresively!

Questions:

1.) Does this mean that it's too late for me? In other words, do I already have a case of "Clutch Fluid" syndrome, which will require the car to be sent to the shop?

2.) If so, is this something covered by Warranty

Now that I've watched your vid, I will make sure to stay on top of this much more frequently.