Originally Posted by MikeFleischer
(Post 1569570461)
As others have stated... This is an easy job...
If you do not count the trip to Napa or the beer to settle my nerves after the goose visit, this whole job took me about 4 hours, but I was not in a hurry. If you have the tools and no geese it should go pretty quickly for you :) Seriously, though, can I get enough cooling with just the brake ducts (LG or DRM) and save the spindle ducts and hoses for another day? |
IMO you'd probably be better served by the DRM SS brake pistons... But, yeah, some directed air is better than no air, and I'm sure there're lots and lots of cars running around without spindle ducts and hose...
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Originally Posted by gkmccready
(Post 1569572696)
IMO you'd probably be better served by the DRM SS brake pistons... But, yeah, some directed air is better than no air, and I'm sure there're lots and lots of cars running around without spindle ducts and hose...
Especially since the caliper is not getting any cooling air in either case. I don't have any, and this setup never overheats. It works as well on lap one in the morning as it does at he end of the day in August. http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...DSC_0028-3.jpg |
Originally Posted by Silverton
(Post 1569572377)
I've got more beer for you in Seattle if you can make the trip! :cheers:
Seriously, though, can I get enough cooling with just the brake ducts (LG or DRM) and save the spindle ducts and hoses for another day? The Stock C6 Vette setup blows air pretty much onto the front tires. Its not very good, the C6 Z06 blows air into the wheel well so its maybe a bit better. I did this first thing to my C6 before I ever tracked it. Its brakes are OK the feel is not great, and they need a gradual constant pressure. My C5 Z06 needed ducts very very badly (it blows air onto the wheels in the front and rear) and I never did do that to it like I should have. It would heat fracture front rotors in 3 to 5 days of driving DE's. Rotors on the Vette are cheap, but replacing them track side is a pain in the butt, and if I am instructing I just would not have the time. Some preventive stuff like the ducts really helps. My weekend at RA saw a change of front pads, but the rotors are fine and have plenty of life in them, so the ducts do their job very well, if you plan to track the car regularly or run it at an advanced level then this is a must have upgrade. Next thing I do with my brakes will probably be a BBK, but for me, personally that is hard to justify on anything short of a real race car. I still hold some hope that a ZR1 kit will be sold in a few years and something approaching affordable :) |
Originally Posted by gkmccready
(Post 1569572696)
IMO you'd probably be better served by the DRM SS brake pistons... But, yeah, some directed air is better than no air, and I'm sure there're lots and lots of cars running around without spindle ducts and hose...
I bought some Ti backing plates from PFYC, and doubled them up on the inside of my caliper (as I didn't think there was any point in putting them on the outside, where there are no pistons or fluid). Last track day I was hard on the ABS in every single braking zone for as much as five laps in a row. After the last outing I didn't give it enough cool-down time and cracked a rotor in the pits. When I changed the rotor and pad the caliper pistons looked fine, and the piston seals were intact. Oh, this was on stock C5 Z06 pads with 3.5" DRM brake ducts, LG spindles and Kumho XSs. Brake temperature paint indicates the outer edge of the rotor peaked around 1200F. I've never had any sort of fluid fade, but then I run Castrol SRF :) I don't mean to suggest that the DRM pistons are a bad product, but I'm not sure the stock calipers are worth spending any money on unless you're in a class that requires their use. |
Originally Posted by ghoffman
(Post 1569572770)
:iagree:
Especially since the caliper is not getting any cooling air in either case. I don't have any, and this setup never overheats. It works as well on lap one in the morning as it does at he end of the day in August. |
Originally Posted by Silverton
(Post 1569574367)
Gary, do I have this right: Brake ducts only, NO spindle ducts or hoses?
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...n/IMGP2127.jpg As an experment I ran the C5 NAPA rotors with the same setup. It workd very well, I just prefer a 14 inch rotor that weighs 5 pounds less each. Note the heat shield on the tie rod end. http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...n/DSG_0084.jpg |
:lurk: Just learning about this so I'm lurking on this thread...
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You're gonna be lurking for a while seeing you resurrected a 3 year old thread.
J- |
it's a bookmark for me...
franman |
I went with with the quantum cooling kit. very good for the money and includes ball joint shields
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/pict...ctureid=110242 |
Where do you relocate the sensor to?
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Originally Posted by trj3
(Post 1587606021)
Where do you relocate the sensor to?
Bill |
Thanks Bill I have read that but I do not see what I am supposed to attach it to you. The use of a zip tie does not impress me. Do you have a picture of how yours is attached?
***** Update, found where to mount it, Really easy, works great! |
thread revival!
I have the DRM ducts with quantum spindle kit. The hoses that came with the kit are already trashed. Which hose do you guys recommend? I realize that some sort of rubbing is inevitable. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by ghoffman
(Post 1569556021)
You really should get our bearing fastener kit, that are slightly longer so that you have adequate thread engagement with the spindle duct. The kit also uses 12 point heads (instead of those @#!%^$& Torx head stockers) and Nordlocks.
http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...roducts_id=115 It would be nice to save a trip to the store in the middle of the job. Thanks! |
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