2000 C5 Rear Deck Lid Paint Failure
 

I have a strange paint issue with the rear deck on our C5. There is a band of paint failure running left to right with near perfect symmetry thru the badge.

I have a couple of images posted that are not great, I will take more tonight. The paint appears like orange peel on steroids, or as though it was cottage cheese painted over.

We purchased the car brand new and it has been kept in a garage. The symmetry of the defect is curious. I never noticed this 3 years ago when we still lived in Chicagoland, in Tucson now.

The defect measures 2" in width and runs from body contour to body contour. Ever more curious is that the ends of the defect are a perfect radius.

Very strange and extremely maddening. I got on 22K on this C5.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...IMG_0007-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...IMG_0013-6.jpg
Sparx

My 2001 is nearly the same but not as bad.
Between the window and badge.

The body shop that just did work on the front said it had probably been repair painted with the incorrect paint. Normal paint reacts with the fiberglass is what they were saying.
I don't see why my car would have been repainted in that same area.

Maybe there was something going on at the factory?

Evil
Does yours run left to right? This flaw seems to shadow a body structural member of the lid.
Better images hopefully will illustrate this.

No point bringing this to Chevy I guess?
I find it hard to believe this was repainted outside the factory. When we vistited Bowling Green back in 1998 or 99 I saw the workers refinishing rear bumper covers by the batch. Much body putty applied in various locations on the rear covers. Who knows all the sins?

I can paint, but it sure is a shame to repaint on a car with 22000 miles on it.

sparx

:eek: Yikes. I have an 02 w/ 62K on the clock, and mine is doing the same thing. The car has always been garaged.

Mine is probably 4 inches wide but seems to have less relief to it. I had a guy at a body shop look at it a few weeks ago, and his opinion was that the fiberglass panel was de-laminating somehow and that it was not a paint issue. If that's true, then what's the fix? Replace the trunk lid????

I was going to post a pic, but my car is a little dirty, so it wouldn't show up well in a picture. I'm planning to wash it in a little while, so maybe I'll post a pic later for comparison.

My 2000 Coupe (Black) had the same effect. Body shop said they had seen a number of these and that the hatch was "de-laminating". However, they wet sanded it down to where it is hardly noticable. Just wondering how the sanding would really have an effect if it were actually de-laiminating.

I am not well schooled on 'gel coat' and thought that might be failing, if it is still used.

Sorry to see there are many issues like this. I have also considered wet sanding it to knock it down some, but I am sure that factory clear is as thin as a GM Reps wallet!

Hey, how is the logo attached on the back lid? Screws in the back or just stick-em?
jim

I'm not sure about the back, but the logo on the front has two plastic posts that fit into holes on the bumper cover and it is held on with adhesive.

well memory didn't serve me well. I though mine was closer to the glass because I didn't remember the emblem there.
But, it's just like yours.
I bet it is something as dumb as a label on the part at the factory that says it a hatch that gets removed and the sticker residue gets sprayed over.

I was thinking maybe something to index drilling holes for the badge.
If there are duplicate failures then it has to be something like that.

The rear badge is a stick-on with no index posts like the front. You need to make note of where the original badge is located so you can put the replacement in the same spot - you only get one chance and then it is STUCK, so take your time and get it right :yesnod:

It had something to do with insulation that leeched through from the back side of the panel and caused paint blistering. The only fix is to replace the entire hatch...

Here is the TSB summary from the thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1567386720

Good luck!!!

Document ID# 1538514
2000 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Rear Hatch Surface Blistering (Replace Hatch) #04-08-51-003 - (Jul 20, 2004)
Rear Hatch Surface Blistering (Replace Hatch)
1999-2004 Chevrolet Corvette

Condition

Some customers may comment that the paint is blistering around the rear hatch. Refer to the area shown in the illustration above.

Cause
An insulator material between the inner and outer panel may be leeching through the outer panel causing it to blister.

Correction
Replace the Rear Hatch. Refer to SI Document ID #657265.

Parts Information
Part Number
Description

10374349
Panel Assemble Rear Compartment

Parts are currently available from GMSPO

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

B3710 Lid, Stowage, Replace 0.4 hr

C0660 Glass, Back Window Replace (Fixed Roof) 1.0 hr

A2730 Lid, Rear Compartment -- Refinish/Clear Coat 1.6 GK

Add:

Paint Mix Time 0.3 hr

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

thanks for that info.
I guess I'll have to head down to the Chevy Dealer next week and see what they say.


Makes sense as per the pattern I have.

Being as there is a tsb on it , you'll hopefully be covered. Let us know how it shakes out.

You bet I will.


I was in the process of claying the car when I discovered this flaw. I doubt I will be able to complete all of that before I take it to the Dealer but I do want it to look sharp when I do, not that it looks dumpy but the is a little dust on the dash! :eek:

I would like to know if it is absolutely necessary to replace the deck, or did GM decide replace it to provide it a foolproof solution? (Oxymoron: GM/ Foolproof) This question is based upon the premise that I may be denied.

I'll be interested to see if GM warranties this. I have my doubts given my recent experience with Chevrolet Customer Service (a misnomer if there ever was one)....

I am thinking the same way. Then when you consider the bankruptcy status it makes it even more questionable.

Last month my 83 year old Mom bought a new '09 Imapala, :flag: with some assistance from me, at least she did go Honda or Toyota. I'm sure the Zone won't give a crap about this, but we support GM, I have 3 Chevy's. I would rather not be seen in a rice burner. You know I have had a couple japan cars and they gave me more trouble than GM's, sorry for being off topic.

All I can do is try.

I would like to know if anyone has a successful repair by sanding off the paint and using an epoxy prime to seal the fiberglass.
AKA Plan B
sparx

Rear decklid delamination
 

Hey SparksC5. If you check out the thread I posted yesterday and today you can see that we are having the exact same problem. I had my car at the dealers today and they are checking with GM to see if it will be fixed. The GM waranty states 72 months or 100,000 miles for panel rust through. But of course Corvettes do not rust so the say it may not be covered. There was a TSB on this problem from July 2004 and the only fix was to replace the rear hatch.

Ok I will look for the thread
sparx

Sounds like "class-action" time!

I have noticed the same thing starting on my 03. Seems worse when its hot out. Early in the morning when its in the garage it is hardly noticeable if at all.

I have a beemer for which the model year was having some wide spread suspension issues where the rear ends are pulling out of the frames. I just got a letter for a class action settlement advising me to take the car to a dealer for inspection and repair at no charge to me.

I think there are enough of us out there with this hatch problem and enough GM denials for service under warranty - especially with a TSB out there that there would be a good case.

Anybody interested in going for it?

I will let you know after I present my case to the dealer next week.
Sparx