Heater Hose Shut Off Valves - Great!
 

:yesnod:Just installed two shut off valves (from NAPA) on the heater hoses. What a great way to go...took a trip from Barrie to Ottawa, Ontario. During the evening, it got colder so all I had to do was open the valves and we got heat again. The next day, we just shut them off for the trip back during the day...Thanks to all for your earlier comments on the valves...I was using a return tube I made out of household copper pipe previously, but that got messy every time I had to get some heat and I lost at least several inches of tubing because I had to cut it off, it wouldn't just pull off...
Thanks again.
Domer

If you are using a valve that looks like this, be careful when opening the valve, especially if the engine is already warm.

http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc_heatv_3.jpg

As you turn the valve handle counterclockwise to open the valve, the nut can come loose and you will be unscrewing the top of the valve instead. It can pop off, letting loose a stream of pressurized hot coolant.

:iagree: Dangerous :(
Just pinch the hoses off with a clamp. When you add in valves you add at least 4 more points that can leak coolant. :ack:

Get a ball valve. 1/4 turn on and off.

I did that on my 68 small block, and it's made all the difference in the world.

Does this end the "Corvette Hotfoot"? If I drive my car any extended period of time the footwells become unbearable. Would this fix the problem? Where do they install? Do you have to open the hood to turn on your heater?

yes it will help, but there could be other heat sources at play here.

Here is a post from a few months ago that has some good discussion on the topic of eliminating cabin heat.

:thumbs:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...nder-40-a.html

Where did you get the ball valve? Any pictures?

Thanks

I got one at Lowes, in the plumbing section. I think it was listed for the newer PEX tubing. The 3/4 inch ball valve fits your car's 5/8 inch supply hose perfectly. $10 as I recall. Easy money...

I used this type of Brass 1/4 turn shutoff valve with the handles removed. 69VETT
Attachment 48158557

Are these manual valves more effective than the vacuum-activated standard valves?

I put manual valves in place, incase I have any problems.
I also left the automatic valve in place so the Heat and A/C would work properly !
69VETT

Thanks for your comments on the valves...I will now be extra careful when re-opening them. The heat problem has almost been totally eliminated, some heat from the trans tunnel even though I have lined it with insulation...But, just took the trip to Ottawa and it was "cool" all the way there and back. What a huge relief.
Again, many thanks to all for the Advice on the valves, and of course, yes, I did use 4 clamps (2 each hose). My vacuum valve was new and didn't work worth a dam, I think it stems from the lever on the console which may be defective. This was the easy way out.
Domer.

I have pics at home that I'll try to post. I got it at Home Depot for $7, plus another $2 for some adapters that help hold the hose on. The whole thing took me only 15 minutes to do (minus draining and refilling the radiator) and cost me $10.:thumbs:

Both should be equally effective, with one caveat. When the engine is shut off, the vacuum type valve will creep open due to leakage in the vacuum system. Most C3s are not as air tight as when they were first built. The open valve may allow some hot coolant to enter the heater core, meaning that you'll get a blast of hot air when you first restart the car.

Other than that, same-same.

BTW- putting two shutoff valves is redundant. Only one is required.

This is my Home Depot version. Note that garden hose comes in 5/8".

Attachment 48158528

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ervalve007.jpg

Not entirely true as the water in the return line will get hot and the heat will eventually make its way back to the heater core. Kind of depends on how long the trip is.

This is a common theory but is just not true. There is no circulation of water in the hose. Whatever heat is conducted through the coolant from the engine is radiated out through the walls of the hose. The hose feels hot- but so does everything else in the engine compartment.

Do a quick test at home. Don't run the hot water for an hour or two. Touch the outlet pipe from the heater. Aside from the first foot or two (conduction losses) it's stone cold.

They have a version that doesn't have the garden hose connectors on the ends. They are held with hose clamps.

That's what I used. About the same price as above, just over $6.00.

cc

All I know is, when I put the second valve in, I experienced a further reduction in cabin temp. Also, being a warm climate, I can just open the valve on the return line and let just enough heat into the cabin to warm up things on cooler days.

"I believe that a scientist looking at nonscientific problems is just as dumb as the next guy."