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Belt Slip Causes/Flip Drive Operation
Does belt slip actually occur more at the S/C pulley or the balancer pulley? I always thought it was the head unit's pulley due to less pulley area for belt wrap, hence when you pulley down, a smaller pulley has more slip. How would the flip drive help if you slip at the head unit's pulley?
The Flip Drive does get more wrap on the balancer but wouldnt do anything for the S/C pulley. If its the S/C pulley, I dont see how it works. I'm interested in either an 8 rib or this unit and it looks to be easier to install this. Is there any difference in effect on different manufacturer kits? (ECS vs A&A vs ATI) |
Mostly on the headunit, as you already know. The flip drive allows you to have a much shorter belt so there is a lot less room for stretch and flex, and the tension can be applied CRAZY tight, so tight that some have literally pulled belts into... just that simple... I will be going with a flip drive:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs: I'm very impressed with the results now that I have had time to see it in action;)
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How friendly is the installation of this flip drive setup?
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The flip drive combined with an EWP is a no brainer on high HP street cars. The wrap is the same, but as Jeremy mentioned isolating the system allows you to run shorter less expensive belts. This not only takes a huge strain off the accessories (reason enough to justify the purchase), but it reduces belt stretch and provides much better control over belt tension.
After going with a 10-rib, Reichard pulleys, modifying tensioners, abrasive coating pulleys, there was absolutely no way I would have spun my F1R 110% without the Flip Drive. The only other option is a cog or a 12-rib, which is much more expensive and unproven. The Flip Drive works - period! It is clearly one of those "why didn't I think of that" type of products. I would recommend going with an EWP as cheap insurance. Should you break a belt you can make it home without the hassle a roadside repair. Truth be known, the EWP lowered my water / oil temps by 10-15* and eliminated any rise in temp during stop and go traffic. |
good info guys
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OK so, does a flip drive and 6 rib match or beat a 8 rib set-up without the flip drive?
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
(Post 1572468938)
OK so, does a flip drive and 6 rib match or beat a 8 rib set-up without the flip drive?
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The sound of crickets in the background.
151 views and no one knows. |
Originally Posted by SpinMonster
(Post 1572474407)
The sound of crickets in the background.
151 views and no one knows. |
Actually the majority of the slip occurs at the crank pulley. When you log voltage you'll see it drop gradually throughout the entire pull.
The Flip drive will get you further than ever before, but there's no substitute for more ribs, the more ribs, the better. Plus a larger crank pulley is much more advantageous than the stock 7.5' pulley as you don't have to go too small on the blower pulley. That's a huge benefit when your trying to get the most out of your blower. :cheers: |
Originally Posted by Arun@ChampionMotors
(Post 1572476356)
Actually the majority of the slip occurs at the crank pulley. When you log voltage you'll see it drop gradually throughout the entire pull.
The Flip drive will get you further than ever before, but there's no substitute for more ribs, the more ribs, the better. Plus a larger crank pulley is much more advantageous than the stock 7.5' pulley as you don't have to go too small on the blower pulley. That's a huge benefit when your trying to get the most out of your blower. :cheers: |
Originally Posted by D C
(Post 1572478993)
How is yours setup Arun?
And of course a Flip Drive. :cheers: |
Originally Posted by Arun@ChampionMotors
(Post 1572480365)
YSi, A&A bracket modified to 10 rib, 2 Billet aluminum pulley's replace the A&A plastic ones. 8" crank, 2.75" blower pulley.
And of course a Flip Drive. :cheers: 10 rib :eek: |
Originally Posted by D C
(Post 1572481576)
WOW, that is awesome. I will wait on putting on the flip drive along with the S/C radiator from Dewitts.
10 rib :eek: :cheers: |
Originally Posted by Arun@ChampionMotors
(Post 1572481885)
Well I fell short of my goal this season, but next season I plan on pushing this YSi to the max. My goal is to run 8.80's @ 158-159mph with a full, true street car, with AC and all the power accessories.
:cheers: |
Originally Posted by Arun@ChampionMotors
(Post 1572476356)
Actually the majority of the slip occurs at the crank pulley. When you log voltage you'll see it drop gradually throughout the entire pull.
The Flip drive will get you further than ever before, but there's no substitute for more ribs, the more ribs, the better. Plus a larger crank pulley is much more advantageous than the stock 7.5' pulley as you don't have to go too small on the blower pulley. That's a huge benefit when your trying to get the most out of your blower. :cheers: :cheers: |
Originally Posted by aTX427
(Post 1572466351)
The flip drive combined with an EWP is a no brainer on high HP street cars. This not only takes a huge strain off the accessories (reason enough to justify the purchase)
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I lost an alternator soon after addiing a 10 rib. The 6-rib and add a Flip Drive is enough for most setups. If you need more grip, upgrade the damper / blower pulley to a Dallas Performance 10 rib and you will never have a slip problem again.
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Originally Posted by 24hr Z06
(Post 1572487383)
how many owners with SC cars have had their accessories fail?
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Originally Posted by 24hr Z06
(Post 1572487383)
how many owners with SC cars have had their accessories fail? I keep hearing the flip drive reduces the wear which is a great thing but never really read about them failing. :thumbs:
Now with the Flip Drive-that's just a thing of the past. :cheers: |
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