Powerjection III Install
 

Finally picked up the kit and had time to install it. I bought the complete kit 70026 and the plumbing kit (70108). I found both kits very complete. I needed some additional fittings to adapt to my existing fuel tank, but that was it. Other than that I only needed to pick up one plumbing adapter (for the water temp to get into the intake) and some hose to redo some vacuum lines.

I haven't leak tested and fired it up yet, but hope to do that this week.

I choose the kit for a few reasons:
1. They have been doing this for a few years. One friend has had the first gen box on his 383 for nearly two years.
2. Self learning (like a lot of the new ones).
3. Install is low-pain. Mine took most of a day, but that was some head scratching and if you really had your stuff together and didn't need to plumb could go quickly.

The process was pretty straight-forward.

Some notes:
1. I choose to replumb the car to avoid any issues. I could have gotten away with just a new supply line and used the stock supply as my return, but it is not a big deal to run the second line. Plan things out to try and avoid the runs to the store -- plumbing is the biggee though. Ran right up along side the stock lines the whole way.
2. I used the O2 bung in the kit (uses worm gear clamps to attach) and connected to my sidepipes just after the collector. The additional clamp is right where the sidepipe covers are. The wiring is deceivingly long and work well being routed behind the ignition shielding and down to the rubber deflector under the footwell. According to Professional Products literature you need it 5-6" from the collector (which leaves it on my sidepipe collector. When I called them we determined that it can go on the pipe itself and be OK. I will get it welded on later if needed. On cars with stock rear exhaust, this will be a little easier.
3. Wiring was straight-forward as well. Another thing to plan ahead on here. Figure where your tach input will come from as well as your keyed source. Test route lines before connecting them and relooming (for the third time). Just ask me how I found out about this.
4. I needed to install longer studs into the manifold as the spacer and the throttle body are much thicker than the stock 4150 body.
5. The air cleaner rod also appears to be too short. I am not sure (didn't check them side-by-side) but the location on the 4150 may just be higher. Hope that I will not have clearance issues.
6. I went ahead and ran the serial cable into the cabin to have it always available. I will just tuck it up under the dash.
7. I stuck with just my vented cap for now. Directions call for otherwise. I have a back-up plan that entails a late model Camaro part that will allow for both direction venting if needed.
8. Depending on your current linkage, it may or may not work. Mine had a small tab that held it in place. That tab interfered so it needed to be bent up. Problem is now the anchor point is just the force of the bolt down (there is not a tab to maintain alignment). This will need to be addressed.

Some pics. Please excuse the dirty underside... it is next on the list.

EFI Throttle Body installed. Regulator assembly comes pre-installed. You just need to hook up the gauge and the supply/return lines.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...ty_EFI/EFI.jpg

Fuel pump and filter. Both provided. I used a couple between the two which wasn't provided in the kit. I then went from -06AN to the 1/4" return and 3/8" supply lines to the existing tank.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...I/IMG_8121.jpg

Later,
Dave

nice pics,
i have been thinking of going this route over the FAST since the wiring is a lot neater on the PJIII. everything is self contained instead of having to run a computer to another place in the car.

do you have a shot at how your return line is set up? let us know how the vented cap thing works and if you use the camaro valve id really like to know how you set it up.

Baxsom,

You can see the return line at the bottom of the first picture. I ran mine back towards the front of the car and then just have it route with the supply line to the back of the car.

Once at the back of the car I just do a -06 AN hose to 1/4" hose fitting and routed it right up to the top of the tank and the return nipple.

I may price out the Camaro part just to see what it will end up running. Sounds like it is both a postive and negative venting unit, so it may do away with the need for a vented cap (in case I wanted to add a locking one).

.....
 

:lurk::thumbs:

FAST is made in USA this product is not. That would help me make my decision of which to purchase. The installation of this product is easier but, for tech support I think FAST would give better answers.

When I had my question on the exhaust sensor I got US reps.

When the friend of mine installed a few years ago and had one problem he sat on the phone with a US rep with his laptop and they hooked up to the system remotely.

Please keep in mind that just because it is manufactured overseas that the design and support could very well be US-based. I believe that may be the case in this situation. I do not know for sure and I am not looking to start a flaming-fest over this but I am just sayin...

since i dont give a rats butt where its made country of origin isnt an issue. ease of install is all i care about.
Ok i see the return line now. so you just used the oem supply line of 1/4inch for the return and did your own supply of 3/8 from the tank to the pump to the carb. isnt there a concern with tank gunk getting into your pump without a pre filter?

I didn't use any of my stock fuel lines. Only the connections off the tank.

The return line in the engine shot runs all the way to the back. What you can't see on the picture in the back is the return line (the stainless hard line) just gets adapted down to a 1/4" hose and run up to the stock return nipple.

As far as the filter goes, the install instructions specifically call out to not use a prefilter. They believe that the sock in the tank will be sufficient. Concerns also exist that a pre-filter would potentially cavitate when the pump is drawing gas at a high rate.

Thanks,
Dave

Looks good! I always liked their throttlebody design. Their original one was completely machined billet. It was beautiful!!

Their engineering and support is in the US.

You might look inside the inlet of the fuel pump. Some of those smaller pumps have a fine screen inside and don't need a pre-filter.

Post up when you get it started!

Got the car leak checked and all is well. Fuel pressure was preset right where it needed to be. Car started on the first crank.

The car has been rich tempered since the side pipes were added and it still appears to be. Hoping that adjustments to the torque and intake settings may improve things. I am also concerned that using the clamped-on bung may be causing an exhaust leak that is throwing off the A/F ratio readings.

Later...

Looks nice :cool:

What is the advantage(s) of installing this setup over a properly tuned 750 Holley or Demon ? :cheers:

BTW serious question above not trying to be a smartass :thumbs:

I would say the self tuning thing is the best answer. no more time consuming jet, pump cam, shooter nozzle trial and error.
no more rejetting for different atmospheric conditions.
no more hard starting in cold weather.

if i had the cash i would definitely buy this today.

Looks nice and all but I'd have to go with the FAST system. I happen to care if the products I spend money on are made by slave labor so that some slimy importer can make obscene profits while running both craftsmen and manufacturers out of business.
But that's just me.

That is a nice set-up. I am installing my FAST EZ-EFI system tomorrow. I already welded the O2 bung in my side pipes last Saturday.

You don't like capitalism much, then? :nono:

It's interesting to see different EFI systems on the market and learn from user's experiences. So far I'm sticking with my carb but maybe some day. :thumbs:

They are not made for higher hp cars. About 550 hp is the limit. You are going to be slower out there trying to race compared to a well setup carb.

http://www.fuelairspark.com/ezefi/default.asp

I think the keyword when it comes to EFI is "optimized mixture" which in theory, a carb would achieve, but practically, 99% of all cars running carbs are not.

Its really strange!, americans almost always judge on any other industry (esp. in Asia) is nothing but a dark and dusty warehouse with the workers tied to the ground by heavy chains!

Well, let me tell you, they maybe have some low quality products, but believe me, their vendors who ask for that kind of quality are your businessmen! .. China will make all sorts of quality ranges, it all depends on "how much you're welliing to pay"!

Abject capitalism, no. Capitalism where the strong use force to imprison the weak, no. Not really.
We don't do that here. If you think this country is a truly capitalist country, you would be wrong. We're governed by a set of rules that prevent it. Abject capitalism is what the south had prior to 1865, and to a lesser extent, many poor Americans, both white and black, suffered in until the early 1900s.
You and I simply cannot compete with any company that can provide a product or service where their overhead is less than half, maybe even a quarter, of what it costs a 1st world country.
You need to understand, I'm not a "buy American" stooge. I don't mind buying parts from a company that provides me a good, quality product. But I won't support a company that supplies parts made at the expense of the poor masses of some 3rd world country.
It's less an issue of quality, although I am really skeptical of anything that comes from China, Pakistan or India.
I don't really care about the businessmen here that import this Chinese crap either. They're profiting mightily, just as the Red Army off the backs of slave labor. All the while honorable business owners and craftsmen here in the US and other 1st world countries struggle to be profitable in a market where everyone else is just buying on pricepoint.
But at the risk of getting this moved to PR&C, I've said my peace. I'll drop it after this.

I believe you hit the nail on the head. That is why I said a properly setup carb, which as you pointed out not very many have.

I think this setup or the FAST setup would actually be much easier for the average back yard mechanic to tune properly than a carb, the people capable of tuning a carb properly are getting very scarce as the years go on :thumbs: