Windage tray question
 

What difference would it make to run with the factory windage tray that bolts to the mains or if i run a oil pan with built in windage tray like the http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-15-240T

Anyone?

/Svante

the stock windage tray is flat; modern trays are curved and or have a wire mesh designed to strip away oil from the rotating crankshaft. A flat tray bounces the oil back up into the rotating crank. The stock tray is the same tray used in my 1961 corvette; the design is at least 50 years old. Almost any contemporary modern windage tray is going to be an improvement over stock....especially in a pan as shallow as a corvette pan.

p.s. I run the same Canton pan on my 96 LT4; am very satisfied with it. some on this forum have had problems with porus welds but on my pan I have had zero problems. A plus is that the Canton oil pump pickup bolts to the bottom of the pump body and eliminates the need to set the pickup height and then tack weld the pickup to the pump body. And the pan holds considerably more oil than the stock pan.

perhaps someone with road racing or autocross experience with this pan will share their thoughts.

Thanks it´s a buy now item! I´ll order the pickup as well.


Nice to know that others have tried the pan.

/Svante.

One thing to remember, is that the studs will stick out and you might have to trim them if you go to a diamonds screen type tray. The better thnig to do is to buy some arp studs that are shorter if you are building a new engine or re-assembling a rebuild.

I prefer the mesh screen and my Kevko pan also has a crank scraper.

back/day those 'old' windage trays showed 10 hp gain in a sbc at 6k ON THE DYNO...today, vendors and the magazines that they own with their advertising $ ALWAYS claim 'new' is better...SHOW ME...till then i'll stick with 'proven' over 'good story' and line MY pocket with the difference.

one caveat with the canton pan besides trimming or replacing the original windage tray mounting studs:

changing out the starter; the starter can no longer drop staight down; however it is not necessary to drop the pan; it will be necessary to drop the passenger side catalytic converter to gain the clearance needed. Not difficult if the cat has been off recently and high temp anti seize used on the mounting studs and nuts (try to use brass or stainless steel nuts). If the cats been on the car since day one...well thats another story for another day.

to make installing the (any) pan easier, instead of reusing the cap screws along the pan rail, I first installed (1/4" NC) studs which tend to grip and hold the pan gasket in place while the pan is lifted up into place.

Well i was there today. I mounted the short lenght ARP-bolts with no threads to assemble the standard windage tray. So now it´s time to wait for the aftermarket pan to show up.

Thank you all for great response.


/Svante.