Problems with the horn on my 03 Z06
 

My horn does not work at the steering wheel, or from my remote. It is my understanding that the problem is probably not in the steering wheel if I am also having a problem with the remote. The fuse is good. When I hit the emergency button on the remote, I hear a clicking from the fusebox under the hood. I tried to pull the micro relay but it doesn't want to move and I do not want to force it.
1. Do you think it is the micro-relay?
2. How do I pull the micro-relay?

Thanks

Based on what you're saying it seems that the relay is functional and the horns don't work. I would use a circuit tester by grounding one end and stabbing the horn wire at the horn and have a helper push the horn button. If it lights....... it's the horns. If it doesn't light, the relay could be energizing but not outputting power to the horns. (meaning bad relay). Hope that helps. If you hear the clicking, you can feel good that the horn button and column wiring is ok.

It's tight but will come out by pulling and wiggling
 

The horn relay is identicatal to several other ones in the fusebox under the hood. I had horn trouble too and was pulling the same number fuse in the box under the passenger compartment. Make sure you are checking the right fuse. As I remember it is near the horn relay in the fuse box. I would also get under the car, like put it up on ramps and check out the horns by supplying a wire with 12V directly to the horns.
One of my horns was bad and took out the fuse. If depressing the horn area on the steering wheel causes the relay to click it is not the membrane and since your remote won't blow the horn I would suspect fuse, relay or bad connection to either hot or ground near the horns.
BIGHANK

horn problems
 

I also had a horn problem with my 2000 vert. After reading the other suggestions in the forum, I listened to the relay in the underhood fuse panel, and it would click when the wheel button was depressed. I gambled and paid the 16 bucks for a new relay, and voila! my horn malfunctions were fixed. Maybe you will get lucky too.

This is really old school advice. It's never good practice to purposely pierce the insulation of a wire, especially when the connector right there to test. Additionally, just because the test probe illuminates, does not mean you have the correct voltage. Even if the tester does illuminate, and the voltage happens to be good, it does not mean the horns are bad, as it may simply be a ground. This is why it's best to use a meter to evaluate 12 volts from the relay at pin B, and resistance to ground at pin A.

Always remove the connector whenever possible, to evaluate voltage/ground, and check for condition, corrosion, etc.

Sounds like a stupid question, but when I pull on the relay it does not budge. Am I missing something?

Other than physical strength....no:rofl:. If they have never been out, they are pretty tight. Try to gently rock one end up(about it's length) to break the contact force on the relay.

Thanks for everyone's help
 

Even thought the relay clicked, it turns out it was bad. All is well for only 16 dollars!

Thanks Again,

Ok, I've seen all the posts but none help me. What I have is a horn problem not working when I push on the steering wheel. The horns do work. They go off with the alarm activation. Is the alarm horn circuit and the steering wheel horn circuit 2 different circuits? Is there a different relay and fuse for each?

I'm thinking you have a bad horn switch/membrane. If that turns out to be your issue ecklers sells them as a separate piece. The dealer will only sell it to you as part of the entire SIR assembly. It's not a bad job but you DO have to remove the airbag, so if you don't feel confident you know what you're doing let a shop handle it.

Here's the schematic to help you troubleshoot... BTW, in the future you should start your own thread if you have an issue.

http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...ornCircuit.jpg

:thumbs:

My horn fix