Need some c5 ls engine block welding information!
 

A while back, my #1 cylinder filled full of coolant due to a defective head. The resulting hydro lock caused the starter to break off the block. The outside bolt hole threaded area cracked off the starter boss. I have the broken piece as it came off whole.

The engine runs fine after I drained the coolant out and pop started it.

My main question is, what aluminum alloy is an LS1/LS6 engine block???

I know someone that has a very good TIG Machine and is a good welder. I just want to have all the right stuff ready to go when the welding starts.

I also have to buy a TAP to chase the threads after all the welding is done. Got to figure out what metric size thread it is also.

If you have done anything like this or know how to and have any recommendation for a successful job "PLEASE" chime in and provide any thing that you can.

I sent the head back to the place that place where I purchased it and it was weld repaired. There was a pin hole in the floor (short side radius) which was welded up and the head was pressure checked SAT.

Thanks for any and all help that you can provide

Bill Curlee

Bill, check PM.. :thumbs:

If he's an experienced welder I would ask him what he prefers to use. I used 6043 rod with unmixed Argon and my heliarc when welding motorcycle cases. That was some nasty zinc filled crap.

Bill, When I did my heads and 2nd cam, My block was identified broking in the same area. I reviewed the records of my service when the car was new, and when the car was under six months old, the dealer replaced one head and the started. Though I have no evidence, I bet the dealership tech snapped the block when reinstalling the starter.

The good side is the car is 10 years old and always started ( well untill my third clutch), but its held on by the front bolt. The rear bolt is threaded, but does nothing.

One day it will break off, then Ill have to install a new motor because of the block

Bill, Sometimes when you have a hydrolock like in your situation, the connecting rod will bend slightly. You won't notice anything wrong till the rod breaks in half! Don't want to scare you, but I would check the deck height carefully on that hole. Good luck with the block repair!!

Bill,

The bolt is a M10 X 1.5 6g thread. The block is made of 319 alum alloy, filler should be 4145 or 4047, but up to the person doing the welding. :thumbs:

I'm not disagreeing with you, but I think that should have been 4043 welding rod. For the most part that alloy is used for aluminum casting repair. An Argon/Helium mix can be used on heavier sections, it creates a hotter and more pointed arc.

Hope that helps,
Don

No problem Don. It was a loooong time ago I was doing this. I will always defer to more recent info/experience. That just worked for me at the time.

Kevin

I'd use this as an excuse to jump up to a 417 shortblock and some square port heads. Thats just me...

Good luck

:iagree:

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol: When I came into the house CURSING like a drunk Sailor and told my wife what happened, she immediately said. Now your going to want a stroker motor. :eek:

Thats always an option but my little modded LS6 runs so good, I will keep it for a while.

After I reassembled the manifold and drained the cylinder, I "PULL STARTED" it with a strap and my Jeep and it cranked right up. I ran the piss out of it. I doubt if I hurt it. It only made 2 revolutions when I cranked it up before it locked up and popped the starter. If it grenades,,,thats another stroker opportunity to upgrade.:);)

Thanks for all the cool welding info.:cheers: Keep the post going as I'm sure it ill help me and others in the future.

Thanks

Bill Curlee

Heres a picture of the carnage. The hacked up plastic cover happened getting the header out. :leaving:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...DSCF0021-3.jpg

This is what I saw when I removed the intake manifold. Both valves are closed so theres no coolant in the cylinder in this pic.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...DSCF0006-2.jpg

Ouch!

Did Patriot make good on the Head for you?

WELL,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,They found the issue and they repaired it and pressure checked it. They said that it was suppose to be mailed THURSDAY last week. Have not seen a box on the door step as of yesterday.

I will let you know. I feel a LOT better that I found the real issue and no longer have a looming feeling that it will happen again. I was so afraid that I would have to reassemble it without being able to point to a smoking gun!:thumbs:

Bill

Come on Bill,
Lets just do a forged 402 and we can reuse most of the current parts.

I would be at cartek now dropping off my car getting an LS3 Stroker built!!!

Called Patriot today and here is what I was told:

I asked them if my head had been shipped back to me.

It wasn't!:ack: The tech that was suppose to reassemble it and provide it to shipping didn't get the word to carry out that action. :rofl:

I was guaranteed that it will be shipped today.

BC

Strike TWO!

:lurk:
Hope you get if figured out Bill!!

I did one a while back, but cant remember what alloy I used, just what we had for doing all of our aluminum cylinder head repair. As for the threads, as stated above, they are M10x1.5, and I would think putting a helicoil in there would be the best option since it may be pretty hard to get the threads lined back up perfect. If you're welder/machinist doesnt have the kit, I still have one from when I did mine.

And obviously make sure its cleaned good so you can get a good weld. We had laquer thinner and then used some other special aluminum cleaner and the weld turned out pretty decent, but the used block castings arent the easiest thing to get a clean weld on.