Need advice on pinion nut
 

And how to get it off. Dana 44, have the correct 33mm socket, and that nut is on there. I don't have access to an impact wrench. No compressor, no money for one.

Anyone have any tricks to get it off? I've tried jamming the parking brake real tight, it just spun it. I tried jamming a piece of metal between the yoke and the c-beam, it tried to bend the c-beam, and I stopped right there with that idea.

I was trying to find the GM pinion yoke remover, but can't seem to fin one anywhere, especially at a reasonable price. I was thinking maybe this would do the trick:

http://ratech.stores.yahoo.net/piyohoto.html

:flag:

I have used pinion yoke wrenches on my Dodge Power Wagons, but I also use a 1/2" Ingersol Air Impact with 600 ft pounds of torque in reverse. If its that tight, you need a heavy duty air impact. Cheap ones wont cut it.

8Valve

I do not like to use a impact on a pinion nut. an impact wrench is just as it describes it is impacting motion (hammering) that brakes things loose so using an impact on the nut is like taking a hammer to the teeth on the ring and pinion unless you have a solid holding fixture. I use a holding fixture somewhat close to what you are looking at and loosen the nut with with a torque multiplier if I can not break it loose with a breaker bar. I do not know if you can rent a multiplier or not. but if you want to use an impact you should be able to rent an electric one.

I may just have to order one(the holder I linked to above) and see how it works out.

Is this like something that you're talking about(torque multiplier)?

http://www.harborfreight.com/torque-...ver-93645.html


I've never used one, how do they work?

That is a multipler not sure that will work though that looks like it is just for lug nuts. not near big enough. I was not saying do not use a impact. people use them everyday on pinion nuts. if you get the holding fiture load it with some pressure and then hit the nut with an impact you should be fine. multipliers are not cheap I would not buy one for a one or two time use.

i use a block of aluminum 7/8'' thick x abt 3'' x 2'' between the yoke and the c-beam for removal and re-install...also use a 'multiplier' (really just a flat bar 1/2''x2'' , 18'' between 1/2'' drive and socket stubs, it allows 'doubling' torque wrench reads)...no problems to date with any c-beam...rust may be adding to torque needed for removal of the nut, soak with kroil and wait 12 hrs.

To do it right you need to measure the break away torque of the nut, you'll need a torque wrench that has a dial.
Go to a tool rental shop & rent a compressor & impact gun, or see if the have a huge cressent wrench to hold the u-joint carrier(yoke?). One thing I always do is put a punch mark on both the nut & pinion shaft. That gives you an idea when your getting close to torque #.

if the axle is out of the car, the best way is:
there is a hole in the wheel flange. I use a long punch or a steel bar in the hole to lock the axle from rotating.
Then add a pipe to the breaker bar to make the bar about 4 feet long.
Comes off every time.

Redrose: where exactly do you stick it? (clean mind here!) I tried and it was about to bend the c-beam. I've got it soaking in PB blaster now.

coupeguy2001: Axle is in the car. Just need to replace the pinion seal.

I do not have access to a torque wrench, so sheer muscle is gonna have to get it off. Just need to hold the pinion from turning.

ex-x-fire: Pretty sure the pinion is shimmed, no crush sleeve. So as long as you torque (a new nut) to the specified torque, all should be fine. I've had to set up axles in the past by measuring rotating torque.


On that subject...when I do get it off...anyone know where to get a new nut?

The Dana number for the nut is 30271

You'll have better luck if you look for a Dana 60/70 pinion nut. I'll post a couple OEM #'s for you later in the day.

With your drive-shaft needs and your pinion nut situation you need to be looking for a drive-line shop in your area. The "Yellow Pages" would be your friend under truck parts & drive-line. Look for maybe the DANA/SPICER trademark. They might also have the flange holding tool for your use since you really need to have them do a good bit of work for you anyway.

Here's 3 GM#'s: 89026803 (most recent), 9422310 (previous), 2353021 (original Dana)

the alum block gets laid (keep a clean mind here) on the lower inside flange of the c-beam and the yoke rotated into contact/stop for removal, reinstalling the block goes above the yoke and you 'trap' it against the upper flange ... IIRC, for removal, block's gotta be 7/8'' thick, 3/4'' is too thin and 1'' is too thick, install could use a bit thicker block if handy...if the c-beam looks unhappy, use a longer alum block to distribute the load over a longer area of the c-beam, or put a c-clamp on over the outside of the flanges (heavy duty 'welder's clamp', no woodworker stuff), but i've watched for deflection and nothing looked worrisome yet.

no crush sleeve on a D44, r&r of nut is no problem but you must use a torque wrench to set to 200 ft-lb specified (verify that setting in your Serv Manual) ... my torque wrench only goes to 150 ft-lb, hence the 'multiplier' to reach spec torque, plus i am not 'tail-heavy' enuf to pull 200 lb and remain earthbound...'torque' req'd for the pinion nut is totally different than the 'rotating torque', aka 'drag' (STAY CLEAN, DIMMIT), rotating torque must be checked with a wrench for 'inch-lbs'.

btw, IIRC the pinion nut is not metric but is 1-5/16'' , altho the metric socket can serve.

btw2, the yoke CAN be pulled without removing the driveshaft IF IF IF the driveshaft is pushed up/forward, yoke and driveshaft are turned 'just right'...to remove the old seal without damaging the housing, i cut/collapse the old seal by hammering a long screwdriver on the 'folds' of the seal, aiming toward the pinion shaft, comes out 'ugly' but ez...grease the outer rim of the new seal for ez install and grease the seal rubber groove to prevent premature seal failure, use care to keep the new seal 'square' while gently tapping into place with a small ball-peen hammer (no room for my 'seal driver' inside the c-beam)

D44 nut is 250ft/lb.

Thanks for the suggestions, all. I may go rent an electric impact and try that on for size.

I am in the middle of doing the same thing and you need to make sure you check your yoke surface where the seal rides. Mine is worn down and when it was rebuilt the place I took it to just threw a new seal in. It took about 1000 miles and started leaking. I'm now putting on a Timken sleeve over that surface and putting in a new seal. If you can run your fingernail across the yoke surface and it catches you should replace the yoke or sleeve it to prevent more leaks. I ordered the sleeve from Rock Auto. I bought an impact from Sears with 580 ft lbs of torque and it came off. Also my 96 FSM says 200 ft lbs to torque the nut on.

Did you do anything special to hold the pinion steady?

I just put my parking brake on tight ( I have XP12 Carbotechs which may help) and with the impact wrench it didn't move. I haven't gotten to putting it back together yet and may just use the impact again. I know you are supposed to torque it to 200 ft lbs but my torque wrench only goes to 150. I would have to buy a 3/4" torque wrench for $75 and also an adapter to use the 1/2" drive 33mm socket, both of which I'd likely never use again in my lifetime. This could wind up being an expensive repair.

The way I see it...as long as the tools cost less than the job would at a shop (and a torque wrench of that nature would....by far..), then its worth it. Then you'll just have to find something else to tighten with that big puppy.

Like your friends lugnuts...:lol:

any of your buddies plumbers ?

I put a large pipe wrench on the outside if the yoke and let the end of the handle rest against the garage floor so that when I turn the pinion nut the yoke is held stationary.

this holds the yoke stationary without putting any strain on the differential, drivetrain or gears.

use a six sided socket on the pinion nut, attach a breaker bar, slide a cheater bar (pipe) extension on the breaker bar and have at it.

if you want to use an impact wrench, this method cancels out most of the impact to the differential internals; although in my experience, impact wrenches, while convenient, don't always develope sufficient torque. cheater bars, and some muscle, give you the leverage to get frozen, or stubborn, nuts and bolts apart.

I air impacted mine off without issue.

Do yourself a favor and buy one of those $8 seal removal tools (like like a sadistic weapon), I had a hell of a time getting my pinion seal out, bought one and popped it out on the first try.

I'll post a pick when I get home of what the tool looks like.

Got the nut off, yoke off, seal out, new seal in. Just gotta source a new nut.

Thanks, WVZR-1 for the part #'s.

I called Corvette Paramedics in Mt. Holly, NJ. Asked if they had a pinion nut on hand, said they'd call back, never did. I'll bug 'em again tomorrow. If not I'll have to order on line I guess. I hate paying shipping ):

GMpartsgiant.com has the nut, I just ordered one.