What clutch for about 500rwhp and doing some RoadRacing/HPDE
 

What clutch should i run if i get about 500rwhp out of my set up and plan to do HPDEs and maybe time trials in the future.

I was thinking the LS7 clutch as a good alternative as I heard it was rated up to about 500.

I am not doing drag racing so don't need extreme, but i know Road Racing can put some wear on Clutchs as well.

Spec3+ alum pressure plate, alum flywheel.

I have been very happy with the LS9X clutch from Katech. It is my 5th clutch ans so far the best. It is about $1,500. I was told it holds 800+ HP.

Jim

A strong 2nd vote for this clutch. :iagree:

C6 Corvette Clutch Upgrades

We have numerous options to upgrade the clutch in a C6. One of our favorites is our CL-236 ZR1 clutch assembly.

If you have any questions feel free to give me a call.
Tom 1-800-962-9632 ext 240.

Trying to keep it under $1000 if possible. Not going to drag the car so no crazy clutch is needed, but i have gathered RoadRacing will wear on a clutch too. I don't mind a stiffer pedal as well.

I track my 01Z and I just finished a weekend with the new Fidanza 7.6 ceramic dual disk and aluminum flywheel clutch set up. Couldn't be happier with it's preformance. The Fidanza is good to 900 hp and the pedal feel is nearly stock.

I'm probably the only one who will say this, but I have had great luck with the LS7 clutch. It is reasonably priced and performs well. (480 whp) I also use a Findanza lightweight flywheel.

I wouldn't use it for drag racing, but for road racing I find that it satisfies my needs. On the other hand, I do my best not to abuse it or my tranny.

Your results may vary...:D

:cheers:

What is wrong with something as lowly as a Spec 1 if you aren't going to doing 0-60 or 1/4 mile runs?

nothing. the holding power (measured in torque by the way, not hp) is determined by the clamp load and the friction materials. I would imagine the plate clamp used for the stage 3 type discs is the same clamp load used for the stage 1 (same cover, plate, spring ,etc) , the only difference being the disc material being different. A full face disc with a non solid hub and a marcel spring is going to be a whole lot more street friendly than a paddle disc.

for road racing it's on or off, not like you are slipping it at WOT trying to gt a 3200 lb chunk of lead moving quickly. a stock type disc should work fine so long as it's not having to deal with huge amount of torque.

the zr1 clutch looks interesting, I'd like to see one up close

Pay now or pay later!

Jim

I don't believe that road racing/HPDE puts a whole lot of stress on a clutch. I've run for 3 years (40 track hours) with 500+ RWHP with the stock clutch and never had an issue. They are inexpensive and work well on the street also. I think it's the launching and speed shifting at a dragstrip that really abuses a clutch. :cheers:

Called Hinson and they pointed me towards the SPEC stage 2+ with a steel flywheel for the daily driver piece of things. It really is my only car so its driven daily, but I don't have to sit in a bunch of traffic. $683 with steel flywheel isn't bad. $809.00 with aluminum flywheel.

How do the aluminum flywheels handle the daily driver things?

Your right I am not dropping the clutch on a launch ever, and hardly ever do any powerful launches from stoplights, i'd rather test the power of a car from the roll than a launch which isn't only hard on the car.

With my car apart just trying to get everyone's advice to do things right when its rebuilt.

I am running close to 500whp in a C6Z (stock LS7 clutch) and no issues after 3+ years. I have been hearing great things about the LS9 clutch on the C6Z forum, but it is expensive compared to LS7. One thing I WISH I had was an aluminum flywheel. I LOVE how the car drive and feels with a lightweight flywheel.

I hear guys on a LS7 clutch with a cam and are OK, but it seems after 550rwhp, things can get dicey. Hope I get more life out of mine, but would love a reason to get an aluminum flywheel.

Dude, you WANT an aluminum flywheel. An LS6 let alone an LS7 provides enough torque to overcome the intertia issue. I drove my LS6 with aluminum flywheel around town all the time without any issue. I would imagine it would only be easier with the LS7. DON'T GO WITH STEEL, you will LOVE how your motor revs with aluminum.

Check out this video...this is my old car with an very lightweight aluminum flywheel...listen to how that motor revs and how blips of the throttle are EFFORTLESS. I have to JAB my LS7 hard to get it to blip, just a tap on the LS6 with aluminum flywheel produces harmony.

crank up the volume

http://home.comcast.net/~g5x3z06/Poc...Infield_II.mpg

Would the Aluminum flywheel be a good combo for some street driving too, thinking the aluminum pressure plate might be over the top?

Personally its not the smoothest car or quietest on the street so increasing performance while I am there is right up my alley.

The Spec alum plate still uses a steel cover (and steel friction surface), so it's not like the whole piece is alum

in the end, it's 12" or so in dia, and still 30 lb, so it has plenty of inertia.

it's not like if you let this clutch out the engine is just going to die. typically when you combine a lighter rotating assembly with a grabby disc is when it tends to hurt drivability.

at the end of the day, it's a huge trade off. from a 50,000 ft pt of view, all the clutch needs to do is couple and uncouple the power from the motor to the driveline. in a race car it should do this as mass and inertia efficient as possible (this equals bad manors). in a street car, manors and smooth engagement and noise matters, so the weight has to go up. pick your path.

I LOVE THE SOUND OF HIS VETTE! :D :flag: What has he done to that puppy? :bigears:bigears:bigears:bigears:bigears

FYI i recommend aluminum flywheel twin disc, then your just done! :smash: you never have to worry about the clutch or an clutch related problems again :cheers:

Monster stage 3 with light weight flywheel.

I am putting down 500/470 at the wheels and this clutch is excellent.

The support at SNL is excellent.

I thought i would go with at least a solid face instead of puck design. The SPEC stage 2+ seems to have a good mix of what I am going for and also reasonable price as well.

Anything else like it out there? THis is the first time i have heard of Monster. What other clutch brands are good?

I have run 2 years on the stock clutch with 500rwhp. I have done alot of track ( road course ) time. I have about 9k on the car without any issues.

:iagree: