Looking for new trailer and need advice!
 

After parking my truck with the car on an open trailer at a motel a few weeks back, waking up every hour to check on it, I have decided to take the plunge and look for an enclosed trailer. Not that this will provide a perfectly secure environment, but it can't hurt. I am in no hurry to buy, so I want to make sure I do my homework.

Any advice on brands or options to get? I want to get the axles upgraded to 5200 lb with the 225 tires, but everything else is pretty much up in the air. I also like the V-nose ones and would like it to be white. I can't afford a 10 or 15K trailer, but there seems to be some good deals in the 5000 to 7500 range. Used ones seem to be few and far between, and most aren't that much less than new. I am willing to travel to pick up (seems like there are a lot for sale in Georgia). I have looked at a number of brands and all claim to be the best.

If you have any information that would assist me, I would greatly appreciate it. I only want to make this purchase once. :flag:

If a soft-sided trailer could meet your needs, check out http://www.serpentexpress.com/

Thanks, that is a pretty cool idea but I am looking for a solid one.

From the research that I did about 10 years ago, virtually every trailer I looked at was a real quality unit. I ended up buying a Wells Cargo brand, a 28' with a nose cone option . It has worked flawlessly and I wouldn't hesitate to purchase another one. I ordered it new and specified where I wanted the tie downs placed for the cars that I was going to haul.

The Wells Cargo had a "beaver tail" feautre which meant the rear of the trailer slopes downwards to the door. I haven't hauled my C6 in it so I can't verify how it would load.

A good friend of mine has this one for his C6Z:
http://www.trailex.com/enclosed_sports_car_trailers.cfm

The cheaper one's are heavier using steel and plywood.

search out information on featherlite trailers. top of the line protection for your car. :thumbs:

Off road sites usually have some for sale.
Check this site out.
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/...p?showforum=99

I have been thinking of getting one too, some deals on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SALE-...item415494452d

7,000lb $4595

http://www.trailex.com/enclosed_sports_car_trailers.cfm

That is a neat one, but I am looking for a full height one. Wells Cargo does make a decent one, and like someone mentioned, many are alike. I found this one (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT) in Georgia. They have one just like this in white for $5500, but will make one in white, 20 foot long instead, with the heavier axles for $6300. I also have been looking at a Sure Trac with the same set up.
I would love a featherlight, but they are just way out of my budget.

Thanks for the input!

I found mine at www.racingjunk.com. Lots of good deals there. I believe there is a guy selling his 28 fter in the AutoX Roadracing section.

BTW- Mine is a 24 ft. You need to make a list of things you want VS things you can negotiate.

For me-It had to have 5K axles, AC w heat strip, Built in storage shelves, and wired. I found a great deal from a guy in N. Carolina.

There are volumes of information online about enclosed trailers. Pace and Haulmark are the main stays in enclosed car trailers. They make good basic trailers with a wide variety of options. Pricing is reasonable, but they are heavy because of the luan (plywood) walls and floors. If you have at least a 1 ton diesel truck, you shouldn't have any problems.

Optima is an all aluminum trailer made by Pace in their GA plant. They are a definite step up. You will notice they do not have any plywood, nor do they have screws holding the exterior alum panels on.

Featherlite is also a very nice alum trailer, but make break the budget. The absolute top of the line is Gold Rush. They are hand built all aluminum trailers made in PA.

Stay away from the V nose trailers. The design is a waste of space and is ignorant. You pull a trailer through the air with a truck, you don't push it. Also be careful ordering too large an axle for the intended weight. It will make the trailer ride extremely harsh.

You need to pay particular attention to the loading ramps optioned on your trailer. Corvettes are very low and will drag easily when loading. It is not fun carrying around half the lumber yard just to load your car.

You may also consider a trailer with living quarters. This helps on motel costs and puts you at the track which saves commuting time.

I recommend you look at every trailer you can as you will learn something from each one. Ask the owners what they like and dislike about it. Good luck!

Great web site for new and used trailers: http://www.racingjunk.com/

Regardless of brand....

Consider the rear beaver tail to help with keeping the car from dragging.

Look into the different types of framing used for the walls, ie. U shape, H shape etc.

A stronger built trailer will last longer, cost more and tends to be a little heavier.

Consider having E-Track or similar added if you end up ordering a trailer as opposed to buying off of the lot. There is no such thing as to much E-track.

Consider having several sets of reverse lights cut in (again if ordering a trailer).

Consider the placement of a second "man" door where your car door will open (if ordering).

Don't forget the spare tire.

Consider an overhead storage compartment.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/HPIM1322.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...trailer/47.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/HPIM1103.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/HPIM1117.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/HPIM1121.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...9/DSC_0539.jpg

[QUOTE=Vito.A;1575996933]You need to pay particular attention to the loading ramps optioned on your trailer. Corvettes are very low and will drag easily when loading. It is not fun carrying around half the lumber yard just to load your car.[QUOTE]

Race Ramps Trailer Ramps are designed to help get low vehicles onto trailers by reducing the incline angle of the existin ramps or trailer door.

They are strong and made with a 100% solid block construction, and yet are extremely lightweight (approx 18 lbs). Plus they won,t slide.

more info at http://www.raceramps.com/trailerramps.html

Thanks for the input. So far my biggest thing I am looking for is a solid trailer, as I agree with Puzzled, to get a strong one built so it lasts regardless of what I haul. I am probably going to order one, so I am adding the side escape door, torsion springs, heavier axles, 225 radials with nice rims, and am considering having the floor and interior walls done. I have looked all over and am getting a real education on these things. I saw the Sure Trac trailer which looks nice. Also the MTI. And it is true, quality costs money. I had one guy in Georgia make me a quote of $4500 for a trailer that had everything and more. Needless to say, I am skipping this one. Sometimes the price can be too low that I become suspicious.

Carhaulers
 

Although these things haven't been mentioned, they're nonetheless important in your decision.

Don't simply shop by brand--most trailer manufacturers have different grades, depending on your needs. Don't buy the low-end versions.

Some features not aforementioned:

If you're looking for sturdiness, wall composition IS important. For example 16" on center braces on walls, 24' on center ceiling braces.
The reason for this is that CROSSWINDS can be severe in some areas or under storm conditions, high bridges, etc. and the stability of the trailer is partially dependent upon that lateral strength.

Be careful of the height and width of the wheel wells inside the trailer to allow for opening the doors of your C6.

LED lamps are brighter and MUCH longer lasting than incandescent.

Although many argue that V nose is a waste of space, the object is that it is less wind resistant and will get you better gas mileage--a nice compromise is a bubble nose attachment (usually fiberglass or PVC).

Make absolutely certain that it is tandem axle, with electrically operated brakes on BOTH axles.

Factor in the GROSS trailer weight (including your car) and whatever accessories/tools, etc. you will be hauling to make certain that the vehicle you use to tow is rated for the towing weight AND the tongue weight.

You can tow up to 24' (not to include the hitch length) safely with a single rear wheel tow vehicle. Although it is possible to tow longer trailers with a single rear wheel (SRW) vehicle, it is not advisable.

The frame rails of the trailer are an IMPORTANT issue since they will be bearing the weight so boxed frame rails or wider frame rails are an item to be aware of. Additionally, the frame rails should be powdercoated or rust-proof coating of some form is ideal to prevent rust from accumulating and deteriorating them. Likewise, undercoating is advisable on the undercarriage of the trailer for the same reason--wood can rot from water and undercarriage damage.

24" high debris plates--usually of diamond plate on the nose is HIGHLY recommended for protection from debris and cinders/stones/gravel/dirt being thrown up against it while driving. Metal outside corners are also a possibility to preserve the structural integrity of the trailer.

8.5' wide is the norm and 7' minimum inside ceiling height is nice--8' ceiling height is better because the ramp door (necessity) will be longer and provide a more gradual ramp incline--critical for loading/unloading a C6 . Consequently, ramp door must be designed to have a weight capacity somewhat greater that your car's weight.

Covered vents are important on the roof and perhaps the top of the sides as well to reduce heat and moisture while in use.

Clearance lights (LED) are a must because of ICC regulations in all states.

Lastly, and a VERY IMPORTANT issue is the hitch assembly. You will need to use stabilizer bars and anti-sway bars with appropriate hitch configuration and CROSS-TIED safety chains to the hitch assembly to make it road worthy.

Single sheet roof is a must for long term durability and watertight transport.

These issues together with other features mentioned above should get you a nice, safe, durable, sturdy and enjoyable trailer to haul till your heart' content. Good luck in your pursuit.:cheers:

Lots of good advice so far! :thumbs:

I have a steel enclosed 20' trailer (Haulin' brand) which has been wonderful. However, I recently bought a 16' aluminum open trailer. Weight is night and day difference in sooo many ways. I'm thinking of chucking the steel enclosed trailer and biting the bullet to get an aluminum enclosed. Less weight, better gas mileage, no rust or corrosion, etc.

Oh, and whatever you decide to get? You need cool wheels...

:cheers:

Look for one with 5000 lb axles because if you get the 3500 lb axles you will be limited to about 3500 lbs payload which is basically your car plus a few odds and ends

Everyone has mentioned most of the items that are important except one. You should seriously consider putting a set of steel or aluminum ramps inside the trailer, bolted to the floor of the trailer so that your Vette is sitting 12" to 14" off the floor of the trailer. A Vette is really low and if you want to be able to get under it and tie it down properly the extra height will be something you will apprciate. I did this on my trailer and I don't know how I would live without it. You will not be sorry after you do it.

ED

Another way to provide clearance under the car is with Race Ramps Trailer Mates, which were designed for this purpose, as well as t provide clearance to open the doors over trailer wheel wells.

Trailer Mates are of a specialized 100% solid block construction, that is very strong, and yet they are extremely lightweight. They also have a grippy coating so they stay put.

More info at: http://www.raceramps.com/trailer-mates.html

Unless the floor is raised, forget the escape door. You won't be able to open your car door to get out. Save your money and buy a winch with a wireless remote. You will need to add some ramps to the door to get the proper angle so you don't scrape. My car was lowered an inch and had a splitter....I just jacked the front end up more and the car was in or out quicker than my buddy could drive his on or off his open trailer.