LS-A Dry Sump system installed PICTURES
 

I have gotten to the point on HPDE's that I was worring about all of the oiling issues with the LS-3 engines. After reading so many posts about a dry sump is the only way to save the engine I made the plunge. I drive it alot on the street in central Florida so I did not want to loose the AC

So I went with the LS-A system from Aviaid. So here is my install story

The pan that is pictured in their kit is an ARE pan and fits fine except! The LS-3 has two mounting bolts that go horizontally thru the bellhousing into the pan. That pan does not accommodate them and also will leave about a 4 inch gap all along the bottom of the bellhousing and the front of the pan will have to be clearanced to get around the crank snout I did not like that so off comes the pan. ARE has a pan called the SCCA T-1 that has a rear extension that will take those two bolts and seal the gap much better

The kit shows a 9 inch or 6 inch oil tank. There is no way a 9" diameter oil tank will fit with stock panels and fenders. So get the 6" one.

There were a few minor issues getting the mounting bracket for the scavenge pump to fit. The bracket had to be turned over and new holes drilled

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Nice!

I see the vent line coming from the left side rocker cover. Where did you vent it?

ttt
 

Very nice work do you do your TIG work yourself, really looks good. :thumbs::thumbs::cool:

Looks great. Thanks for posting. I may do something similar to my C5 someday.
As for the vent line questioned above: The line you are looking at is the return line from the pump. A dry sump system should have the motor sealed and the tank vented. A vacuum relief valve is the only thing that may be installed on the motor to limit vacuum from the scavenging of the external pump, but with a two stage it really isn't a big deal unless extremely wide stages were used that may or may not pull lots of vacuum depending on pump design.

Not sure if it's a public response your comfortable with but what was the total cost ? I just put off doing this cause I thought it might be more than I had to spend so actual cost would help me confirm my decision. PM is fine too. Thanks in advance

Steve

What type/brand of heat shield are you using.... The ARE system is being installed this week in my Z06 .

Thanks

The pan, tanks, pump,brackets, drive kit etc were $2500. Then there was oil filter relocation kit $70, breather tank $80, -10 and -12 lines and many fittings and fire sleeve $865. Then add labor

I had the work done by Buddy Hendricks in Sanford, FL. He is very capable and his experience goes back to being on the crew for John Greenwood, crew chief on a Porsche 935 and a 911 with Alex Job Racing. He was also a guest engine builder on the Hot Rod TV show for a couple of years

I believe a road trip to Sanford to visit Buddy is in the cards real soon for me. Thanks for the great info.

The vent line off the passenger side valve cover is stock. Just replaced the factory hard plastic tube with braided line to factory locations

Don't those lines vent in to the top of the tank?

The vent for the oil tank is the smaller tank next to it. It is basically like a big catch can

What is the vent tank mounted to? Please provid details as I'm looking for options where to mount mine in the next day :thumbs:
G

There is a metal strap that bands the two halves of the oil tank together. The bolt that tightens it up is long. Buddy was able to use the end of that bolt to mount the breather tank. May not look like it but is very secure. It does not move
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Nice work thanks for posting.:thumbs:

Oil starvation
 

Did you experience oil starvation before you did your upgrade?

In my last session on PBIR where I had gotten also my Pfadt chassie, the oil lamp lit up once during my five sessions. The oil level was ok, perhaps close to the low level but had suffered four track events and was about 280 F at the point. I just assume that the engine experienced starvation for a second or so. So I understand why the dry sump is a good idea.

I am pulling 1.35 G in side force with R888 and Pfadt Aggressor I in my LS2 C6. Now I have new oil in and filled to the high mark. Will see if I get the same again two weeks from now.

PeO.

On a C6Z the valve cover vents pipe to the top of the dry sump tank. I was just curious where the valve cover vents on your setup end up?

This is on a base model LS-3 engine. Not a ZO6. The line on the valve cover connects to the factory location near the throttle body

The dry sump is preparation for the future. So far I have not gotten any oil warnings during the events in Sebring. I am still running stock run flats. I have Phaft coil overs, sways, bushings etc and will upgrade tires in the future. Also plan on doing an event at Daytona this year which as I understand will really need the dry sump for the long lefthanders on the banking

GM recommends overfilling oil for racing or competitive driving... This is listed in your owner manual.

Except Z06: Be sure to check the oil level often
during racing or other competitive driving and keep
the level at or near 1 quart (1 L) above the upper
mark that shows the proper operating range on the
engine oil dipstick. After the competitive driving,
remove excess oil so that the level on the dipstick is
not above the upper mark that shows the proper
operating range.