How Do You Replace C4 Shocks
Does anyone have a link to how to replace the shocks on a 91 Coupe? I have checked the tech section without finding what I am looking for. Appreciate any help.
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It's pretty straight forward unless you have the adjustables, than it's just $$$$. Was there a specific problem you ran into?
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:iagree:
You need to access the top bolt of the rears under the carpet. :cheers: BTW use lots of PB blaster on those bolts. |
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The Factory Service Manual is your friend.
Just my respectful opinion...if you're asking such a basic question, I highly recommend you take the car to a shop. |
I think the 91 uses a bracket, adapter, plate (pick one:D) that bolts on to the top of the rear shock and then bolts onto/into the frame with two 13mm bolts.
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
(Post 1576659630)
:iagree:
You need to access the top bolt of the rears under the carpet. :cheers: BTW use lots of PB blaster on those bolts. |
Originally Posted by 96GS#007
(Post 1576659717)
:toetap: There are no bolts you access by removing the carpet. You remove the two bolts that secure the mounting plate to the frame via the wheel well.
Maybe it was a mod... :cheers: |
Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
(Post 1576659891)
Sorry. Thought the late C4's had a single nut on the top. Read somewheres where the top nut was easier to access from the top?
Maybe it was a mod... :cheers: |
Originally Posted by 96GS#007
(Post 1576660718)
Only if you use a hole saw and cut thru the top of the frame rail after cutting thru the body. Many people with dedicated track cars will do that in order to more easily adjust Koni adjustable shocks. :thumbs:
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When you look at it, the how-to will be pretty obvious. :cheers:
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Originally Posted by Frizlefrak
(Post 1576660875)
When you look at it, the how-to will be pretty obvious. :cheers:
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4 hours
If you are handy you can do the complete job in less than 4 hours. If you are not handy have a friend come over that is handy and buy a case of beer and have at it.
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
(Post 1576659891)
Sorry. Thought the late C4's had a single nut on the top. Read somewheres where the top nut was easier to access from the top?
Maybe it was a mod... :cheers: The later C4's had a separate upper mounting bracket that attached to the shock. Those shocks attached to the bracket similar to the way the front shocks are attatched on the upper part. The bracket then was inserted into a hole on the underside of the frame rail and bolted in with two small bolts. The front shocks are pretty straight forward, a nut on top of the shock rod for the upper end and two bolts that hold the lower end of the shock to the lower control arm. You don't even need to raise the front of the car to replace the front shocks. The nuts on the lower bolts are easily accessible with a long socket and the nut on the shock rod can be removed with a box-end wrench. |
Originally Posted by RockG
(Post 1576660851)
Ok, instead of the one bolt from shock, there are two bolts facing upward holding the bracket remove those two bolts and the bottom part of shock and it comes out. Then you remove that two bolt bracket and put it on your new rear shocks before it goes back in.:thumbs:
Torque on all bolts and top studs is 20 ft lbs. The big nut on the lower rear is torqued to 60 ft lbs. |
Originally Posted by dwblindref
(Post 1576661859)
If you are handy you can do the complete job in less than 4 hours. If you are not handy have a friend come over that is handy and buy a case of beer and have at it.
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Originally Posted by 92ragtop
(Post 1576664202)
:iagree: It's not hard to do. However, one thing to be aware of, which I just encountered, is that the upper half of the top bushing (that sits up inside the frame rail, can be swollen. On mine I really had to struggle to get it out of the hole in the frame.
Torque on all bolts and top studs is 20 ft lbs. The big nut on the lower rear is torqued to 60 ft lbs. |
Shock replacement is pretty straightforward, right, but here's a small dilemma. In general the top nut should be tightened to expand the bushing out to the dia. of the washer. The previous post said 20 ft. lbs. on the nut. Replacement washers are a harder urethane than the stock rubber ones so maybe 20 ft.lbs. isn't enough to properly expand the bushing. Comment? One other point, the stock bushings have a nice male female arrangement to them to keep them centered on the stud. Replacements will probably be the generic donut type. If the stockers are in perfect condition, as mine were, can or should they be reused?
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94 fx3
Is this the same on the rear with FX3 actuators? Remove the two bolts and it all slides down out of the hole? I seen nothing when I pulled up my carpet. :eek:
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Originally Posted by Rocket-J
(Post 1577021291)
Is this the same on the rear with FX3 actuators? Remove the two bolts and it all slides down out of the hole? I seen nothing when I pulled up my carpet. :eek:
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