Upgrading C5 suspension for drag racing - need advice?
 

After a very long story & many upgrades later my 02 C5 Vette is now a 550rwhp car sporting RPM stg 6 auto trans, stg 3 diff, DTE diff/trans brace, & PFADT motor & diff mount w/ 28” Hoosier QTP tires w/ OEM front sway bar removed but the stock rear bar still in place & tons of other crap, but now I’m working on more upgrades for the new drag race season & need advice of where or what to upgrade next as far as suspension.

If I had an unlimited budget I’d get the PFADT package that comes with the coil-overs, fatty sway bar and control arm bearings and all that but I don’t lol….. so I’m looking into poly bushings and a better rear control arm etc.

I have seen video’s & pics of my car on the launch & it when it squats the rear tires definently turn in (toe’d in) & they also lean in at the top of the tire so I’m thinking that upgrading to poly C-arm bushings should help this go away correct?

Anyone have suggestions on what I need to upgrade next? For example I want the most bang for my buck, like is the Prothane vs. Energy suspension vs. PFADT bushings better?

As far as upgrading the rear sway bar, is it worth anything? Which do I need? Johnny O Connell vs. PFADT vs EIBACH vs Hotchkis etc. This car is not a road course car so I’m not sure what one I need & whether it really is upgrading…?

Or am I on the wrong path all together and should spend my $$ on other suspension parts not listed?

BTW, this car is “not” 100% race car, more of a fun street car that spends the majority of its time at the drag strip w/ A/C & all the creature comforts still in place lol

Thanks in advance!

What kind of times have you been running with this combination? I don't see where you mention which shocks you are running. Which torque converter are you running? These are probably the two of the most important pieces to the puzzle.

And have you run with a full tank of gas to see what the 60's are :D

10.80's on 100hp shot of N20 w/ 1.46 60's, but its a lazy hog on motor 1.75 60's, currently 3600 RPM trans spec'd Vigilante converter but just sent it back to get restalled to 4000k on motor

Stock shocks

1/4 tank of gas

I ran 9.75 on a seven year old stock Z06 suspension minus the front sway bar. I had 595HP. I think you can run some good numbers without spending much cash.

With 550rwhp my car ran 9.8x with about the same suspension as what you have except I had a 4000 stall and QA1 shocks. Forget all the other stuff and get some QA1s and add your restalled conveter. I think that you will be surprised. Also, which gear are you running? Replace the QTPs with the Hoosier slick.

I ran a 9.73 on a stock mag ride suspension with the sway bar still installed with a 1.44 60', on 275/40/17 M/T drag radials. :D

Yeah, but you still LOST!:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Yep, but you still got the little trophy!!! But I guess 2nd place is good enough for you...:rofl: You might as well get used to it!

I am wih Danny (DBN). Try shocks and converter and see what ya got. I just had my qa1's rebuilt so no what I am getting but have high hopes.

I run 06 Z06 shocks with much less HP (n/a) 414 rwhp (mustang) and did a 1.41 60' . . . I'm not sure upgrading your suspension is worth the $$$ . . but, it's your money.
i might recommend going with the poly bushings if you are seeing that much movement on your launch however, it will change the way it feels when on the street. I replaced mine a few years ago but they were worn out from being 12 years old and had 125k miles on them . . .when up on a lift and put into gear you could see the wheels turn in.
Not positive a "brand" name is going to make much difference in performance when it comes to the bushing either, just make sure you apply the lubricant that comes with them.

check my avatar. stock suspension 1.41 to 1.42 sixties most of the time with a best 1.405 n/a. on a 100shot had a 1.344 and a 1.362 sixty 04 coupe sway bar out solid motor mounts. the pfadt motor mounts did stop drive train shake

Ya know, that implies that even if you finish in 1st then he'll automatically be the one in 2nd?:confused2:
A lot of serious players in that class this season, he might even only come in 3rd or 4th this time around. :D ;)

Wow thanks for the responses! ok here we go....

3.90 for the gear currently but i'm at 6800 or more through the traps w/ the juice on so that might need to change lol

The Hoosier QTP's have to stay since i've been running a heads up street car series over 3 of our local tracks, has to be street legal tires, drive to track, mufflers and all that jaz

Redgar has been sending me advice over that last year & everything he says is gold and has worked like a champ so far

That makes me feel better knowing that the converter should help the launch, (REDGAR knows the story behind my car) I've been fighting the thing being super sluggish off the line & he suggested cycling the TCS button after burnout, it fixed it but the converter is a joke off the line unless i dump the 100hp N20 right off the line lol - It was no where close to 3600 off the line, i could never get it to flash higher than 2400 no matter what i did.... so hopefully the "4000 on motor" helps alot lol

I run 90 10 shocks in the front no front sway bar and qa1 adjustables in the back.My car does steady 1.30, 60ft have even had a couple of 1.28

man after seeing what you guys are cutting for 60's heck my lazy 1.46 on N20 is a joke lol, then i guess my question should be what converter, tires, & rear gear are you guys running to get those numbers?

427 N/A engine, custom Coan conveter, Hoosier 28x10 slicks, and 3.42 gear = 1.274 60' time in my 2000 coupe.

Im running a 427 f1r procharged car, powerglide, 5500 stall and slicks.
You just need a bigger stall to get the car to 60 ft better or alot more power and a good tire

last year 140k mile 346 ci na motor - ls-6 heads -- 4k yank stall 373's - 16 x 26 tire

this year, a 9 year old 346 stock bottom (2002 ls-6) - different heads / cam . . . :woohoo:

Yeah your car works great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So are ya doing the lsx shootout?