Stock brake calipers...
 

I decided to pull my caliper pistons out to replace the seals, the pistons were really hard to get out, air would not work, I had to use channel locks, now with the new seals in the caliper housing the pistons were super tight to get back in, I don't see how the fluid is going to move them or does this sound normal? :ack:

why did you pull them? , were they stuck and did not work?

does not sound normal, i just ordered a reman from auto zone 50 bucks and it's my more than 5th 20 buck purchase, I have earned 20 bucks credit on the rewards program.

I found my pass rear caliper was sticky but put it back anyways with new EBC ultimax pads for fear of finding what you found... a maybe (iffie) situation .

i go into the car wed and finish the job

I bought new rotors, pads and braided brake lines , so I figured why not replace the seals and dust boots and paint them ...bad idea? I don't know, I only did one and the pistons are so tight I don't want to install it to find out they don't work...i'm stuck

double post

the thing is they worked before, but think you will be fine as long as the grips didn't mess up the piston to cylinder interface to leak.

put it together and try it, it's only time under the car that you love, yeah right....

LOL...I'll try them and see, they have to have a whole bunch of pressure I would think to move those pistons, but maybe so..thanks

i find on some of the cars i work on the pistons actually become bigger from constant heat and when doing a rebuild trying to put them back is a major pain and wont go back in see if you can get new pistons for the calipers

These are aluminum pistons.


To the original poster, did you lubricate the seals with brake fluid? Also, the pistons always come out with air pressure, channel locks might damage the surface.

:iagree:

:iagree:

channel locks are a big no no on aluminum pistons. the tolerances between the caliper and piston are ULTRA tight and for good reason. if you had dry build up from torn seals you can use 600 grit wet to lightly buff off the residue which will get them to move again. to install you set the seal in the caliper, move the rubber around the piston, slide it down and snap the bootie in the piston.

My last caliper rebuild I completed started to leak after a few days.
Since then I go down to Autozone and say - need a set of rebuilt calipers for my 92.
Its a lot easier

:iagree:, Same for master cylinders. I'll tackle most any automotive repair but generally leave brake components to the pros. Considering how much of component rebuild is now done in Mexico I may have to rethink the whole thing however.

just picked up my caliper from autozone, everything is new, all rubbers, pins, it's a no brainier, lifetime warranty too, only 50 bucks

Just finished the front :ack: I think the backs could wait till nex week :D
They went together easy and pistons are working as they should, I quess they just needed fluid an pressure. Thanks
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...s/100_3559.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...s/100_3558.jpg

who said you cant see em through the sawblades :rofl:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...s/100_3561.jpg

looks good