Need an Explanation on 2008 Key Fob
 

I saw that the #1 fob for my 2008 C6 has a slight hairline crack (upper left, see picture) so I decided to order a new #1 fob even though it was working and probably could have been repaired with a bit of epoxy.

After following the instructions in the owner’s manual and finding the fob wasn’t getting programmed. I tried the procedure several times using both the original #1 and the #2 fobs.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1/IMG_0415.jpg
I went to the CF and searched for programming instructions. I found instructions for programming a new fob as well as information to determine if the glove box socket (for fob programming) works and it appears to be fine.

I then switched the old fob #1circuit board out of the #1and into the new #1 fob. The new fob case works with the old #1 circuit board.

So now I have a #1 fob that has the cracked case with the new circuit board and isn’t programmed and a brand new #1 fob case with the old, original circuit board that works.

For whatever reason, each case has a different part number as follows:
Original equipment #1 fob part # 25854929
Original equipment #2 fob part # 25854930
New #1 fob part # 25926479
I suppose the original #1 and #2 fobs have different part numbers because of the #1 and #2 numbers stamped in the case; however it seems that the part numbers for the old and new #1 fobs are for different parts because the circuit boards have different writing on them. Therefore, I assume the circuit boards have been updated.

So if you’re still awake, my question is this; what changed on the #1 circuit boards to warrant a new part number and delete the old one? Is it okay to put the old circuit board in the new fob case, because I have lost patience trying to program the newly purchased #1 fob? Thanks in advance for any input.

The part number is just the printing on the case Fob 1 vs Fob 2

When you do the long form programming, whichever Fob is programmed first is #1 no matter what the case says.

Do the long method, put the case that has #1 on it in first and then #2.

>>C6 Fob Programming and Glove Box Slot Testing Procedures<<


Elmer

I saw that and stopped when I saw that the long method could render the working fobs inoperable. I figured the part numbers for the original fobs referred to the stamped numbers 1 and 2. However the newly purchased #1 fob has a different part number than the original part number and in fact replaces the original part number which is no longer available.

Perhaps they updated the fobs because sometimes they crack...:hide:

Just do the long procedure. It will allow you to have a #1 &#2. If you did the short method and added the new FOB, it would have been #3.

Elmer

Often, part numbers change simply when suppliers change or when improvments are made. If the circuit board from your original #1 will fit in the case from your new #1 make the swap.

That's what I did, but at this point I'm curious about the part numbers and why I can't program the new fob.

You probably can program it to #3 FOB, the only way to program a new #1 FOB is use the long procedure.

Well at this point I think I'll just leave it as is; new case with old insides. I don't want to accidentally clear the programming from the fobs and then have to have the car flat-bedded to the dealer. Right now I'm thinking my C5 key & fob was a much simpler (and better) system. I would just leave the key in the ignition and programming a new fob was a cinch. Everything on my C6 is an improvement over the C5, except for the push-button start and fob.

I plugged in the following numbers into a www.gmpartsdirect.com: 25926479, 80, 81 & 82. All of the numbers show that they are "transmitters". Therefore I suspect that each part number is the same part (fob) with a different number for the seat setting on the C6

Program the new FOB in the old case to the #3 FOB. That way you have a spare should you lose or damage one.

Success at Last
 

Thank you all for your input. I decided to try to program the new circuit board in the old (not working) fob case. I followed the directions (as linked to above) and when I waited the 10 minutes, I had nothing. Then I decided to turn the fob into the glove box slot so the key opening was pointing out, not in like earlier attempts (key slot down) to program it. It worked!!! I put the new board in the new fob case and now I have three working fobs. Since my wife has never driven my C6 (and she is not interested in cars) I really have no need for a third fob. I only bought it because of the crack and if I knew that the programming was going to be a tedious as it was, I'd have just epoxied the slight hairline crack. Is there a way to clear the program from the old #1 fob?

IMHO the proximity, key-less fob is a ridiculous way to open, lock and start a car. I know it's "state of the art" and Chevrolet had to do it to keep pace with the competition, but to me it's much more trouble than it's worth. I miss the simplicity of leaving my key in the ignition of my C5 while it was parked in my garage.

to clear the old #1 you will need to do the long method and start over. Also remember that only Fob 1 and 2 will work with memory settings. (if you have memory option) So if you add a Fob 3 and want to use it as your daily fob it will not set your memory functions.

The system can turn into a PITA if it's not working correctly, but it worked fine on our 2006 and now 2009. Thats five years and 80k miles; every morning I just drop the fob into my pocket as I get dressed and only take it out when I go to bed. One of the many things I like about the car.

I agree. It's so simple. My wife thinks it's the greatest thing in the world b/c she doesn't need to fumble around in her purse to find the keys. Great safety feature for her when alone at night and you just walk up, open the door and push that button. Remember, we need to keep them on our side.

What's not to love?

Walk up to car. Open door. Sit in seat. Buckle seat belt. Push Button. Drive away.

Push button to stop. Remove seat belt. Open door. Get out. Walk away. Door locks.

2007 with 68K miles.

As Paul, Talon90 said, many times part numbers will change for some very small and insignificant reason, so don't get distracted by that. The onkly way to change Fob #1 is to do the long procedure and wipe out all fobs and start over...but always be sure to check the operation of the glovebox slot first.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...tructions.html:thumbs:

Sorry I may have touched a nerve for those of you who like the C6 FOB, but at my age (71) programming these new fangled things are a puzzle. I do understand (and had not thought of it prior to Bobbyosto’s post) the big advantage for a women with a purse. As for the programming, I think it’s as programmed as I’ll get it. I have no idea of which FOB is what number as they both show the same message on the DIC and the seats do not go to the #1 and #2 memory locations automatically. I must press the #1 or #2 button on the door.

I did find out why the new part number for the FOB; the new FOB’s buttons do not depress like the old part number FOB’s buttons did. All that the new FOB needs is to firmly touch the button, it does not depress. It feels strange at first, but it works.

Does 71 make that much difference? I hope not. I'm going to be 70 in two weeks. Love the FOB, loved the PKE on my '94 and '95.....

:willy:

How much do you want for the cracked one? PM me.