Failed Inspection test - catalyst not ready
 

Hey Guys,

I have been battling problem for the sometime now. I have taken my car in to get inspected several times to different places and each time I fail my state inspection. Each time my report comes back with the Catalyst and Evap systems as not ready.

I found on the forum GM's "drive" cycle instructions and ran through those. Still no luck.

Someone said to take it to a dealer and have them do a reset on the computer. I have a custom dyno tune on the car and the programmer told me this would wipe out his tune. Now before you start think it is the tune. I have had the tune on the car for over 3yrs. This would be the 4th inspection I had with the tune on it. So me and the programmer who is Cory at Henderson Performance do not think it is the tune.

So does anyone have any suggestions? I thought about disconnecting the battery and let the car set for a hour so that everything will reset on the car. Does that sound like a good idea?

I really need your help I am 2x months out of inspection and with school starting on Tuesday there will be cops everywhere.

Thanks

That doesn't sound right. You might want to post this in the Scan & Tune area. For some reason your computer isn't resetting after going through the ready cycle. I would suggest calling your tuner for suggestions.

I would check your battery, grounds and connections to the PCM. I am not an expert but if your PCM senses low or no voltage it will enter reset mode and you will get the "not ready" codes. I would disconnect the battery and try that. I think that you can read the codes from your dash readout so you can check for these codes before you go for an inspection. You may also have a problem with your PCM.

I hope this helps.

Check your gas cap and for vac leaks, Also pull your codes.

Just to be sure you know...if you disconnect the battery you will need to do the drive cycle again. Also, the items on the drive cycle eventually all get covered in normal driving if you don't want to have to go through a specific routine and timeline.

If the catalyst system is showing up as "not ready", then it's probably the rear O2 sensors aren't reporting correctly, or they are reporting correctly and the cats are going.

Either way, since you have a tuner who is willing to work with you, just shut the codes off. Not a big deal at all.

What is the procedure that gives this result? Do they plug into your ODB2 port? There is talk of that happening here in Ontario, Canada.

Are you clearing ANY codes BEFORE you test?

When I lived in Texas they only emission tested in the major metro areas. How about a drive to podunk county that doesn't test? Back in the day you could just buy the sticker and slap it on the windshield yourself but the trick was finding the right shop.

These are NOT codes, they are I/M monitor tests-they can not be tuned out. If it's like IL-the just plug into the OBD port. I have other OBD readers, I plug in all my vehicles before I go to test-I know 100% that all the I/M monitors pass before I go in.

The I/M monitors test things like Catalyst, EGR (where applicable), Evaporative Emissions,... Some states will allow you to fail 1 I/M test some will not.

Here in IL, the OBD test goes right to the State-no way to get around it.

Move to okla no inspection.Just kidding,that sucks.

Correct, the inspection places just plug into the OBD port and read the monitors. I am not sure if they will allow it to pass with 1 failed IM test or not.

Is there a way I can have the rear O2 sensors tested? Would the OBDII readers being able to test if the rear senors are working or not?

If I remember correctly Texas allows 1 fail but cannot pass a "not ready". I had some repairs done and the shop disconnected the battery. It caused me to fail my inspection. I had to drive for about a week with my fingers crossed until I could get the drive cycle completed.

OMG!!!! I'm in Angelina County and we don't have that silliness! Tires-Check! Lights working-Check! Wipers-Check! Brakes-Check! $14.50-Check! Here's your Inspection sticker Have a nice day!

I wish I could take it to a different county however I live just north of Austin (Williamson County) and we are required to have that whole stupid emission test done. If I try to go to a different county they are required to run the same test that Williamson County would run. SO it is pointless to go some where else.

I changed out the o2 sensors downstream today and I bought a OBD2 scanner tool so I can monitor the I/M test status. I do not have any DTC codes current or history on the car. So now I will drive it and see what comes back.

I am thinking my next steps are going to be to replace the catalyst's but that does not help we with the Evap system.

Does anyone know what the EVAP system is and what makes it up?

In Texas you can have 1 moniter " Not Ready " and pass but none can be " Failed ". Any failure will turn on a check engine light.

Evap system stores gas vapors in a charcoal canister and at certian times a solenoid opens to burn them thru the engine to help reduce pollution.

If you get down to only 1 " Not Ready" you will pass in Williamson county.

If your not getting any EVAP codes, the I/M test will eventually run on it's own and pass or fail. You'll see this on your scanner. If it FAILS, it will set a code (i.e. the loose gas cap will set this code).

I found the line between the Evap solenoid and the TB was not all the in. So I am hoping that fixes the Evap "not ready" but I have to drive around for a while to burn off some gas. What I have read is that the Evap test will not run until the gas tank is less then half full.

The testing has been here in BC for years now, newer cars are simple, they just plug into the OBD port, if you have no issues you won't have a problem.
The whole crap is nothing but a money grab, costs $45. here every year!!
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