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DRM shock install
I will be doing this in the next couple of weeks since the shocks are being shipped today. Big question is if I choose to drop the A-Arms to install the front shocks is it imperative to re-align the front in? Seems to be a mixed bag of opinions on this. Thanks for the help.
******************** Many thanks for all the responses. It may actually be easier to use the zip-tie method rather than pulling the A-Arms after reading all the responses. I was looking for actual experience from fellow forum members which generally is the best advice. Have changed many shocks but not on my Corvettes. Thanks again. |
Originally Posted by MiamiCowboy
(Post 1579163758)
I will be doing this in the next couple of weeks since the shocks are being shipped today. Big question is if I choose to drop the A-Arms to install the front shocks is it imperative to re-align the front in? Seems to be a mixed bag of opinions on this. Thanks for the help.
2-if you drop the a arms then it might need an alignment. I meant to do a write up on my installation I took pics and everything but then never wrote it up. |
Thanks for the response. Did you use the zip tie method to compress the shock or were you able to manipulate the shock to remove it?
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No a-arm removal or zip ties here. Just biceps. :yesnod:
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It's easy but incredibly awkward trying to keep it compressed and wriggle out of the tight spot. I actually used steel wire to hold mine compressed. I'll dig up the pics
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Zip tie method worked like a charm for me!
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I bent a coat hanger around the top of the shock (front only), used some muscle to compress it, then hooked the coat hanger around the bottom of the shock just below the tube. I didn't want to mess with the A-arms. Reversed the process on the install (need to get the coat hanger off the top before the shaft goes in the mounting hole).
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I'm sooo glad you asked this question...I just paid my invoice and should be getting mine soon.
I asked Randy if there were any "how-to's" posted anywhere since I have NEVER installed a shock before in my life....this is gonna be a first time for me since I have the 'will' and the place to do it. Back in high school it was 'the thing to do' install rear air shocks on old muscle cars...I never did do it, but helped a buddy install a set on his old goat (was'nt so old then) and it was a few years ago to say the least. Soooo, I'm gonna put these on my 'Z....I'm assuming this is something a novice can do, right? Opinions? Or should I take it to the dealer....I have a shop and tools... |
Originally Posted by tim414
(Post 1579166880)
I'm sooo glad you asked this question...I just paid my invoice and should be getting mine soon.
I asked Randy if there were any "how-to's" posted anywhere since I have NEVER installed a shock before in my life....this is gonna be a first time for me since I have the 'will' and the place to do it. Back in high school it was 'the thing to do' install rear air shocks on old muscle cars...I never did do it, but helped a buddy install a set on his old goat (was'nt so old then) and it was a few years ago to say the least. Soooo, I'm gonna put these on my 'Z....I'm assuming this is something a novice can do, right? Opinions? Or should I take it to the dealer....I have a shop and tools... |
There is a good how to in the DIY sticky section at the top of the forum. Just make sure you use jack stands. The right front top shock nut can be a little hard to deal with because you need to use an allen wrench to hold the shaft from turning and there is not a lot of wrench swing room. I used a stubby gear wrench for that and it helped.
Read the DIY, be patient and the job should go OK. Some have asked questions on this forum mid-install and usually gotten prompt replys. |
Originally Posted by AirBusPilot
(Post 1579166901)
It's very easy, and if you have any tools and a jack, you can do it yourself in a couple of hours. Buy a bunch of some HD zip ties at home depot.
I have some heavy duty black ones stocked in my shop already....how many? By reading the above post I'm assuming that I need them to compress the shock, correct? Thanks Tim
Originally Posted by AzDave47
(Post 1579166931)
There is a good how to in the DIY sticky section at the top of the forum. Just make sure you use jack stands. The right front top shock nut can be a little hard to deal with because you need to use an allen wrench to hold the shaft from turning and there is not a lot of wrench swing room. I used a stubby gear wrench for that and it helped.
Read the DIY, be patient and the job should go OK. Some have asked questions on this forum mid-install and usually gotten prompt replys. I'll go get a set of them to add to my tool box...if so. My torque wrench is old, do I need to torque anything? I've been planning on getting a new one any way....and a set air tools since my big compressor is in and piped now. Would it be easier to use air tools? I've got floor jacks and jack stands.... |
Mine are shipping now as well, can't wait for them to come and put them in my car :rockon:
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The stubby gear wrench is a short wrench with a box-style rachet on one end and an open end wrench on the other. I think I got mine on sale at Sears for about $30 for a set of 7 (normally about $50). because you need to hold the shaft with the allen wrench, I didn't torque the top nut, but it is a safety nut with nylon insert so you just need to snug it down good. I don't have air tools any more. I do use a battery powered impact gun and that can help get off some stubborn nuts and I use it all the time for the lug nuts.
I did use a torque wrench for the bottom nut and the rear shocks, but the bottoms are "big" and you really tighten then down (?129 lb-ft) so you may not need a new torque wrench, but more tools are always good! |
Originally Posted by tim414
(Post 1579167016)
I have some heavy duty black ones stocked in my shop already....how many? By reading the above post I'm assuming that I need them to compress the shock, correct?
Thanks Tim Thanks....I do not have a very short rachet, is that what your referring to 'stubby-gear wrench? I'll go get a set of them to add to my tool box...if so. My torque wrench is old, do I need to torque anything? I've been planning on getting a new one any way....and a set air tools since my big compressor is in and piped now. Would it be easier to use air tools? I've got floor jacks and jack stands.... Putting the new shocks in is even easier because you can compress the shocks on the bench and tie the zips together where the shock is so compressed it just falls into place. I didn't have any specialized tools and I was able to tighten the top nut pretty easily with just a wrench. |
This should help...
DIY - SHOCK REMOVAL & REPLACEMENT http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...tallation.html http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...up-inside.html |
Originally Posted by AzDave47
(Post 1579167282)
The stubby gear wrench is a short wrench with a box-style rachet on one end and an open end wrench on the other. I think I got mine on sale at Sears for about $30 for a set of 7 (normally about $50). because you need to hold the shaft with the allen wrench, I didn't torque the top nut, but it is a safety nut with nylon insert so you just need to snug it down good. I don't have air tools any more. I do use a battery powered impact gun and that can help get off some stubborn nuts and I use it all the time for the lug nuts.
I did use a torque wrench for the bottom nut and the rear shocks, but the bottoms are "big" and you really tighten then down (?129 lb-ft) so you may not need a new torque wrench, but more tools are always good!
Originally Posted by AirBusPilot
(Post 1579167660)
It depends on how long the zip ties are, but figure 3 per shock (small loop at the top, small at the bottom, then one connecting the two). You can muscle the stock shocks out, or use 3 zip ties and compress the shock while pulling on the zip tie to keep it compressed.
Putting the new shocks in is even easier because you can compress the shocks on the bench and tie the zips together where the shock is so compressed it just falls into place. I didn't have any specialized tools and I was able to tighten the top nut pretty easily with just a wrench.
Originally Posted by eeagle
(Post 1579170594)
This should help...
DIY - SHOCK REMOVAL & REPLACEMENT http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...tallation.html http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...up-inside.html I went to the DIY thread and sat here until midnight reading and "never" made it to the thread I needed. Have a msg this morning my shocks shipped yesterday. I will not be doing it this weekend anyway. Already have too much to do.....weekend after.... Thanks for help ya'll :) :cheers: |
Originally Posted by tim414
(Post 1579172196)
Thank ya sir....
I went to the DIY thread and sat here until midnight reading and "never" made it to the thread I needed. :cheers: |
One other tricky spot is removing the sometimes rusty top nut on the fronts. I would let some penetrating lube sit on those for a little before going after them. Have to use a wrench and then pliers to hold the stud in place. I'm lucky I can use mybrothers air tools. An impact wrench got those right off. To torque the top nut you will need a crows foot
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Hey guys, not trying to thread jack but our instructions for our Johnny O'Connell tuned shocks will be very similar if not identical to most other brand of shocks. Take a look, has all the tools listed as well. Hope it helps.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...stallation.pdf |
Removing the upper A-arm bolts is so simple and makes it so much easier...You're going to facepalm when you realize how easy it is and wish you hadn't wasted money on zipties and gym memberships.
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